Henry David Inglis - Spain in 1830 (Complete)

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Some typographical errors have been corrected. (etext transcriber's note)

SPAIN IN 1830.

By the same Author,

In 2 vols., Post 8vo., Price 16s.

SOLITARY WALKS THROUGH MANY LANDS,with TALES and LEGENDS.

The descriptions are diversified and graphic,the tales introduced, interesting and clever,and the authors narrative style, sprightly and unaffected.New Monthly Magazine.

It is all pleasing, and always interesting,the author has at once the eye of a keen observer, and the pen of a ready writer.Athenum.

AL-HAMBRA.
From a drawing by T. G. Vigne, Esq. Eng d. by Edw d. Finden.
Published by Whittaker & Co. London, June 14, 1831.

SPAIN IN 1830.

BY
HENRY D. INGLIS,
AUTHOR OF SOLITARY WALKS THROUGH MANY LANDS; A JOURNEY
THROUGH NORWAY, &c. &c.
IN TWO VOLS.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
WHITTAKER, TREACHER, AND CO., AVE-MARIA LANE.
1831.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY S. MANNING AND CO.,
London-house-yard, St. Pauls.
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
HENRY DAVID,
EARL OF BUCHAN.

My dear Lord ,

Since I parted from your Lordship, eight years ago, on the bridge of Namur, changes have happened both to you and to myself. You have become a Lord,I have become an author. When a man acquires a handle to his name, all the world knows it; but when a man begins to handle his pen, it is a chance whether any one knows it but himself. It is very likely, therefore, that your Lordship may be as ignorant upon this point, as I fear the rest of the world are; but it will doubtless surprise your Lordship to be told, that upon you I lay all my sins of authorship.

It was in those daily and delightful strolls on the banks of the Meuse, that you inspired me with the desire of hunting the wild boar in the forest of Ardennes; and when I went to bury myself there,at the time that your Lordship sought the busier scenes of Paris,I carried with me that little green writing-desk and its golden key, the gift of the lamented Mrs. Erskine. Figure to yourself, my Lord, my isolated dwelling, with six feet of snow around my doors,no companion but my great shaggy dog, and my blazing faggots, and the little green writing-desk upon a table by my side,and your Lordship will admit, that I could not do otherwise than use the golden key and blot my paper.

The dedication of my first book was therefore most certainly due to your Lordship; but besides its own unworthiness, another reason, applicable to all that I have subsequently written, hindered me from laying at your feet this tribute of affection and respect. I was then younger than I am now, and probably more foolish; and asking the notice of the Public under a fictitious name, your Lordship would have said, who is this Derwent Conway, who impertinently addresses me, My dear Lord, and subscribes himself my Cousin? But Spain is a country so associated with romance, that a fictitious name to a book of travels in that country, might almost warrant the conclusion, that the book was altogether a fiction: and so now throwing off this veil which was unmeaningly assumed, I take this earliest opportunity of making your Lordships acquaintance in the character of an author.

Sweet shades of Ammondell! I remember them well,that Gothic bridge, that plantation that skirts the river; where, when a boy, just let loose from school, I used to be met and welcomed by that fine, grey-headed man, your Lordships sire,the elegant, the learned, the witty, the eloquent, the consistent politician, the upright man, the unrequited;Ay! the unrequited; heaven rest His soul! who remembered not his friends in the day of His prosperity.

It is difficult to tear oneself from the deep solitudes and quiet glades of Ammondell; and I know that your Lordship enjoys there the elegancies of lifethe delights of rural retirementand the sweets of literary leisure; but your honourable father had battled with the world, and in the cause of independence and freedom, before he retired to the tranquil shades of the Ammon, and said

Give me a nook in some secluded spot
That business shuns, and din approaches not;
Some quiet retreat, where I may never know
Which monarch reigns,what ministers bestow.

Your Lordship inherits the genius, with the titles of your family; and it were a noble spectacle to see the Aristocracy of the land stand forth, the champion of Political Liberty, and lending the weight of its influence to the claims of those who have only right and reason on their side. Forgive, my dear Lord, this boldness; which must only be attributed to the respect and great regard with which I have the honor to subscribe myself,

Your Lordships affectionate Cousin,
HENRY DAVID INGLIS.

Barcellona, Jan. 2nd, 1831.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I. BISCAY.
PAGE
Departure from Bayonne, the Bidassoa, and entrance into Spain; Precautions against Robbery; Black Mail, and Anecdote; Charming and novel Scenery; Mail Travelling in Spain; Vittoria; Spanish Bread; Priests; the Spanish Cloak; Women; Arrival of the Infante Don Francis; a National Trait; Spanish Money and Expense of Travelling; Journey through Biscay to Bilbao; Chocolate; the Plain of Vittoria; Passage of the Biscayan Mountains; Durango; a Village Misfortune; Biscayan Recreation; the Muleteers Song; Bilbao; Traits of Spanish Character; Markets; Biscayan Political and Religious Opinions; State of the Inhabitants, and Mode of Life; Riches of the Corporation of Bilbao; Prices of Provisions; the Campo Santo; the Iglesia de Bigonia and its Superstitions; Trait of Spanish Pride and Generosity; the Convents and their Inmates; the Hospital; curious Customs, and extraordinary scene in a Coffee House; Improvement of Land in Biscay, Climate, Disease, &c.; peculiar Rights and Privileges of Biscay
CHAPTER II. JOURNEY FROM BISCAY TO MADRID.
Waggon Travelling; Scenery; Bills of Fare, and Expenses; Second Visit to Vittoria; Departure for Madrid; the Ebro; Privileges of the Military; Old Castile; Husbandry; Burgos; Beggars; Posadas; Traits of Misery in a Castilian Village; New Castile; Quixotic Adventure; the Somo-Sierra, and Approach to the Capital; Sketches of the Environs, and Arrival in Madrid; Information for Travellers.
CHAPTER III. MADRID.
Streets and Street Population; Female Dress: the Mantilla; the Fan; Aspect of the Streets of Madrid at different hours; the Siesta; Shops; Good and Bad Smells; State of the Lower Orders; Analysis of the Population; Street Sketches; Sunday in Madrid; the Calle de Alcala; Convents; the Street of the Inquisition; Private Apartments in Madrid; the Prado and its Attractions; Ludicrous Incongruities; Spanish Women, and their Claims; the Fan and its Uses; Portraits; Inconvenient Exaction of Loyalty; the Philosophy of Good Walking; the Retiro; Castilian Skies; the Caf Catalina and its Visitors; other Coffee Rooms, and Political Reflections; the Botanical Garden, strange Regulation on entering; the Theatres; Spanish Play Bills; Teatro del Principe; the Cazuela and Intrigue; Spanish Comedy; the Bolero; the Italian Company; Cultivation of Music in Madrid; the Guitar; Vocal Music; Spanish Music
CHAPTER IV. MADRID.
The King, Queen, and Royal Family; Personal Appearance of Ferdinand; a Royal Jeu desprit; the Kings Confidence in the People, and Examples; Character of the King; a Carlists Opinion of the King; Favourites,Calomarde,Alegon,Salsedo,the Duque dHigar; Rising Influence of the Queen; Habits of the Royal Family; Court Diversions; Rivalry of Don Carlos; the Queens Accouchement, and Views of Parties; Detection of a Carlist Plot; the Salic Law; Court Society; Persons of Distinction, and Ministerial Tertulias; Habits and Manner of Life of the Middle Classes; a Spanish House, and its Singular Defences; Abstemiousness of the Spaniards; Evening and Morning Visits; Balls and Spanish Dancing; Character of Spanish Hospitality; Spanish Generosity and its Origin; Examples of Ostentation; Morals; Gallantry and Intrigue; the Morals of the Lower Orders; Religious Opinions in the Capital, and Decline of the Priestly Influence; Jesuitical Education; the Influence of the Friars; Causes of the Decline of Priestly Influence, and the Continuance of that of the Friars; Convent Secrets; Curious Expos at Cadiz; Devotion in Madrid

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