Tom Courtney - Walkabout Northern California: Hiking Inn to Inn

Walkabout Northern California: Hiking Inn to Inn

Second edition 2019

Copyright 2019 and 2011 by Tom Courtney

Manufactured in the United States of America

Distributed by Publishers Group West

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Courtney, Tom, 1948 author.

Title: Walkabout Northern California : hiking inn to inn / Tom Courtney.

Description: 2nd edition. | Birmingham, AL : Wilderness Press, an imprint of AdventureKEEN, [2019] | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2018031102 | ISBN 9780899978901 (pbk.)

ISBN 9780899978918 (ebook)

Subjects: LCSH: HotelsCalifornia, NorthernGuidebooks. | HikingCalifornia, NorthernGuidebooks. | TrailsCalifornia, NorthernGuidebooks. | California, NorthernGuidebooks.

Classification: LCC F867.5 .C687 2019 | DDC 796.5109794dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018031102

Front cover photos copyright 2019 by Tom Courtney

Interior photos by Tom Courtney except the following: : Scott Jordan

Maps and cover design: Scott McGrew

Interior design and layout: Adapted from the authors design

Project editor: Kate Johnson

Proofreader: Laura Franck

Indexer: Tom Courtney

Published by

WILDERNESS PRESS
An imprint of AdventureKEEN
2204 First Ave. S., Ste. 102
Birmingham, AL 35233
800-443-7227

Visit wildernesspress.com for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information. Contact us at our website, at facebook.com/wildernesspress1967, or at twitter.com/wilderness1967 with questions or comments. To find out more about who we are and what were doing, visit blog.wildernesspress.com.

Cover photos: (clockwise from top left) Cabin at the Santa Cruz KOA (,)

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.

SAFETY NOTICE: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health. The fact that a route is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. Be aware that conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions, know your own limitations, and consult a map.

P RAISE FOR THE F IRST E DITION

Courtneys engaging descriptions include natural and human history and stories of quirky locals. He also provides route information, lodging recommendations, trailhead directions, sources for trail maps, and tips on gear and safety... The book offers rich experience: car-free rambles rewarded with creature comfortsperfect for aging backpackers, carbon-conscious travelers, and anyone interested in slowing down to appreciate nature and hospitality.

SUE ROSENTHAL , Bay Nature

Now comes a guide that brings readers both Courtneys savvy knowledge and firsthand experience of exploring 400 miles of California wilderness. Different from other hiking guides, this one provides readers with everything they need to turn their adventure into a true walkabout... Its a practical guide but also rich in detail. Courtney allows readers to see deep inside the wilderness of each hiking segment. He brings it to life, tempting all those who love the outdoors to see it for themselves.

ANN TATKO-PETERSON , Contra Costa Times (now East Bay Times )

Nothing wrong with roughing it, of course, but occasionally a guy likes to soak his weary feet in a hot tub, sip a fine merlot alongside a juicy steak, and sleep in high-thread-count sheets along the way.

SAM McMANIS , Sacramento Bee

You wake up in your comfy room, eat a delicious breakfast, set off for the day through the beautiful wilds, and make it to the next lodging in time for cocktails. This type of traveling is fairly common in Europe, but not as popular here in the States... It might seem daunting to plan an inn-to-inn trip yourself, but Courtney offers detailed itineraries, complete with trail notes, suggested stops, lodging recommendations, and the like.

SUSIE NADLER , Apartment Therapy

[Courtney] fell in love with to-inn walking in England. Now he wants to make it as popular in the United States as it was there.

JUDITH STONE , Sunset

Acknowledgments

I WOULD LIKE TO EXPRESS MY DEEP GRATITUDE :

To the many friends and members of the Walkabout California community who enthusiastically supported and encouraged this project and who have hiked inn to inn through the wilds of California.

To Lynn MacMichael, a one-person marketing tornado, who read every word of this volume and improved it with her insights.

To Scott Jordan, longtime friend and inn-to-inn hiking buddy, who joined me on walkabouts through Lassen and the Sierra, always ready for adventure. His editorial advice was invaluable.

To my daughter, Emily Courtney, Walkabout Californias business manager. Her deep knowledge and steady hand launched the venture and made it flourish. Her passion and support never wavered, and her meticulous editorial advice was priceless.

Finally, to my wife, Heidi. She hiked with me on eight of these walkabouts, from a romantic weekend stroll along the Mendocino Coast to 20-mile treks on the rugged Lost Coast. There is no more delightful companion on the trail. She kept my writing grounded and true. This project would not have happened without her unfaltering enthusiasm and support.

Preface to the Second Edition

W HAT JOYTO SET OUT ON A TRAIL in the wilds of Northern California, to hike for two to five days, stopping each evening at an inn, B&B, or hostel for a hot shower, a good meal, and a comfortable bed. That was the inspiration for the first edition of this book. I am grateful to Wilderness Press that they share this vision.

Many of us lead hectic, urban lives. Yet we have a primal yearning for a deeper connection to nature and to ourselves. A multiday sojourn in Californias wilderness helps us make that connection.

The popularity of distance walking and hiking from inn to inn has grown dramatically. In 1990, fewer than 5,000 pilgrims received their Compostelaaccreditation for hiking 100 kilometers or biking 200 kilometers on Camino de Santiago across Northern Spain. That annual number now exceeds 300,000. Likewise, since the first edition of this book, thousands have taken to the trails to hike from inn to inn through California. Thousands more have come to our website, WalkaboutCalifornia.com, to share their insights and experiences of hiking from inn to inn around the world, to ask questions and plan their own adventure, and to find inspiration for outdoor exploration.

There have been many changes since the first edition of this book. Options for transportation and lodging have become more abundant and convenient. Ride-hailing services have blossomed, offering easy rides to the trailhead. Short-term rental services, such as Airbnb and VRBO, have multiplied lodging options. Inns and restaurants have closed, opened, and changed hands. Some trails have become overgrown and impassible. New trails have emerged. There are also two new walkabouts in this edition: Sierra Nevada Foothills Along the American River and Walkabout Carquinez Strait.