Rosa Abreu-Runkel - Vanilla: A Global History

VANILLA

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

Already published

Apple Erika Janik, Avocado Jeff Miller, Banana Lorna Piatti-Farnell, Barbecue Jonathan Deutsch and Megan J. Elias, Beans Nathalie Rachel Morris, Beef Lorna Piatti-Farnell, Beer Gavin D. Smith, Berries Heather Arndt Anderson, Biscuits and Cookies Anastasia Edwards, Brandy Becky Sue Epstein, Bread William Rubel, Cabbage Meg Muckenhoupt, Cake Nicola Humble, Caviar Nichola Fletcher, Champagne Becky Sue Epstein, Cheese Andrew Dalby, Chillies Heather Arndt Anderson, Chocolate Sarah Moss and Alexander Badenoch, Cocktails Joseph M. Carlin, Coffee Jonathan Morris, Corn Michael Owen Jones, Curry Colleen Taylor Sen, Dates Nawal Nasrallah, Doughnut Heather Delancey Hunwick, Dumplings Barbara Gallani, Edible Flowers Constance L. Kirker and Mary Newman, Eggs Diane Toops, Fats Michelle Phillipov, Figs David C. Sutton, Game Paula Young Lee, Gin Lesley Jacobs Solmonson, Hamburger Andrew F. Smith, Herbs Gary Allen, Herring Kathy Hunt, Honey Lucy M. Long, Hot Dog Bruce Kraig, Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss, Lamb Brian Yarvin, Lemon Toby Sonneman, Lobster Elisabeth Townsend, Melon Sylvia Lovegren, Milk Hannah Velten, Moonshine Kevin R. Kosar, Mushroom Cynthia D. Bertelsen, Mustard Demet Gzey, Nuts Ken Albala, Offal Nina Edwards, Olive Fabrizia Lanza, Onions and Garlic Martha Jay, Oranges Clarissa Hyman, Oyster Carolyn Tillie, Pancake Ken Albala, Pasta and Noodles Kantha Shelke, Pickles Jan Davison, Pie Janet Clarkson, Pineapple Kaori OConnor, Pizza Carol Helstosky, Pomegranate Damien Stone, Pork Katharine M. Rogers, Potato Andrew F. Smith, Pudding Jeri Quinzio, Rice Renee Marton, Rum Richard Foss, Saffron Ramin Ganeshram, Salad Judith Weinraub, Salmon Nicolaas Mink, Sandwich Bee Wilson, Sauces Maryann Tebben, Sausage Gary Allen, Seaweed Kaori OConnor, Shrimp Yvette Florio Lane, Soup Janet Clarkson, Spices Fred Czarra, Sugar Andrew F. Smith, Sweets and Candy Laura Mason, Tea Helen Saberi, Tequila Ian Williams, Tomato Clarissa Hyman, Truffle Zachary Nowak, Vanilla Rosa Abreu-Runkel, Vodka Patricia Herlihy, Water Ian Miller, Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar, Wine Marc Millon

A Global History

Rosa Abreu-Runkel

REAKTION BOOKS

To Margarita, Gehan, Gerardo, Angel and Tim

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd
Unit 32, Waterside
4448 Wharf Road
London N1 7UX, UK
www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2020

Copyright Rosa Abreu-Runkel 2020

All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers

Page references in the Photo Acknowledgements and
Index match the printed edition of this book.

Printed and bound in India by Replika Press Pvt. Ltd

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

eISBN 9781789143416

Ageing though still beautiful and vivacious, Madame de Pompadour, a patroness to the likes of Voltaire and unequalled influencer of mid-eighteenth-century French culture, could not deny the truth any further: the romantic ardour for her lover, King Louis XV, which once dominated her thoughts and actions, had vanished. She recalled the way in which she had once stirred erotic passions in many a paramour, including the king, by perfuming her garments with vanilla. Thus she devised a plan to restimulate her lost passion for him: she would alter her diet to consume only vast amounts of truffles, and vanilla.

For me, as a child growing up along the lush, sultry terrains of the central plains of the Dominican Republic, there was no shortage of sights, sounds and smells to excite the senses and instil an appreciation of nature. Its the kind of backdrop that demands you visualize the intersection between natures sensual power and everyday life. For me, nothing embodies that relationship quite like the orchid, a flower that perfumes my earliest childhood recollections the subtle ways in which its scent and appearance charmed and enchanted our household.

I was often surrounded by women in my family who, with little more than a few utensils and a small wood-burning stove, created extraordinary meals and desserts that prominently featured the orchid fruit known as vanilla. Over the years, these remembrances have become elusive and somewhat vague, yet they have achieved a sort of profundity. I recall the way my mother was fascinated by the flowers and attempted, with middling success, to cultivate them in our tiny apartment, an environment entirely unsuited to the flowers well-being; how she acquired and conspicuously displayed a tacky, bright red silk orchid of plastic origins; and perhaps most importantly, how she used a limited supply of ingredients to pro duce a magnificently vanilla-fragranced Dominican flan, which overwhelmed the senses and provoked unrestrained consumption.

Much like my memories, it seems that orchids themselves follow me around wherever I go. During my birthday dinner in the summer of 2018, my family and I sat at a table in a New York City restaurant, and, to my surprise, there was a white orchid beautifully laid out on our table. It appeared to be inviting me to tell my version of its story. My curiosity begins with the question, what is vanilla? The answer brims with contradictions and surprise.

Dominican-style flan.

Intoxicating and evocative, vanilla is considered the only edible orchid and is the second most expensive spice after saffron, while its use as an ingredient surpasses that of even chocolate. Vanilla can typically be found in a wide array of goods, including baking products, beverages, medicines, air fresheners, cleaning supplies, soft drinks, perfumes and even cosmetics. And, of course, ice cream. Vanilla is also believed by many to be a potent aphrodisiac and has deeply ingrained connections to and connotations of race and culture.

Yet this tropical, flowering vine, whose sensual secrets have been guarded for centuries and memorialized through legend, is now so commonplace that it has become synonymous with the bland and boring, though its association with orchids may itself be unexpected. Many do not know that vanilla comes from a flowering vine, and vanilla, both in flavour and fragrance, is seldom what comes to mind when we think of the world of plants.

So what, then, does vanilla evoke? When you hear the word, you may think of its modern use as a synonym for conventional or safe, warm and pure. Perhaps the word conjures images of decadent desserts to which it lends its rich, sweet essence. Most of us have its mysterious extract in a delicate dark bottle in our pantry, which we open only when ready to embark on new adventures in baking. Maybe as a child you experienced a rush of joy and anticipation when the glass bottle was opened and one tiny teaspoon overwhelmed your olfactory sense with its confectionary scent, perfuming your entire kitchen with the promise of a spoon lick or a scraping of cookie dough from the bowl before that dessert was escorted off to the oven.