Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Ecuador & the Galapagos (Travel Guide eBook)

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Contents

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Introduction to

Ecuador

Theres a well-known saying that Ecuador, roughly the size of Great Britain, is actually four worlds rolled into one country. Straddling the equator, it boasts a mountainous Andean spine (the sierra) encrusted with glittering snowcapped volcanic peaks the famed Avenue of the Volcanoes and dotted with cobalt-blue lakes. To the east, vast emerald carpets of steamy Amazonian rainforest harbour a mind-boggling array of flora and flora (the Oriente), while the 2000 kilometre-long Pacific coastline entices visitors with its hidden coves, avian-rich mangroves and endless golden beaches lapped by warm waters. Then there is the countrys most famous attraction, the other-worldly Galpagos Islands. Anchored 1000 kilometres from the mainland, and like nowhere else on the planet, this volcanic archipelago is renowned for its tame wildlife giant tortoises, Equatorial penguins, marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies to name but a few that inspired Charles Darwins thinking on the nature of evolution.

The cultural and ethnic make-up of Ecuador is as fascinating and diverse as its landscapes and wildlife. Most of the countrys seventeen million citizens are descendants of the various indigenous groups who first inhabited this territory 12,000 years ago, Incas who colonized the land in the late fifteenth century, Spaniards who conquered the Incas in the 1530s and African slaves brought by Spanish colonists. Although the mixing of blood over the centuries has resulted in a largely mestizo (mixed) population, indigenous cultures remain very strong, particularly among the Kichwa-speaking communities of the rural sierra and the ethnic groups of the Oriente. As in many parts of Latin America, social and economic divisions between indgenas , Afro-Ecuadorians, mestizos and a small elite class of white people remain fairly entrenched.

While Andean Quito is the political and cultural heart of Ecuador, the port city of Guayaquil is the pulse of the countrys economy, exporting tonnes of bananas, shrimps, cocoa and coffee worldwide. Above all though, the country relies heavily on the export of oil: vast tracts of Amazonian rainforest in the Oriente have been transformed by oil multinationals, and although significant areas are officially protected, pollution and industrial accidents have had a devastating impact. That said, the accessibility of the rainforest and its abundant wildlife is one of Ecuadors main draws due, ironically, to the transport infrastructure developed by and for the oil companies. Other threats to Ecuadors jungle come from deforestation , on account of logging, gold mining and clearing of land for cultivation. These factors threaten not only the regions ecosystem, but also the numerous distinct indigenous groups including the Siona, Waorani and Secoya who live there. In recent years, indigenous rights groups and environmentalists have combined their efforts to resist the continued threat posed by government and multinationals to one of the most biodiverse landscapes on the planet.

One of the oldest democracies in Latin America though this was put into question during the decade of autocracy under charismatic leader Rafael Correa that ended in 2017 Ecuador has found it difficult to find consensus on a development model that can provide economic growth while protecting the cultural and natural heritage of one of the most biodiverse lands on the planet. Much like the military dictators of the 1970s, Correa left behind a heavily indebted, broken economy and a society shocked by corruption and disappointed by unfulfilled promises of well-being.

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THE DISTINCTIVE BLUE DOMES OF THE CATEDRAL NUEVA, CUENCA

FACT FILE

• Ecuador is the Spanish for equator . It was chosen as the name of the newly independent country in 1830 after the alternatives, which included Quito and Atahualpa, proved unpopular.
• The Galpagos giant tortoise can weigh up to 250kg, over four times the weight of the average adult human.
• Spanish is the official language of Ecuador, but there are more than 20 other native tongues, including several dialects of Kichwa, the language of the Incas.
• Ecuador has more species of mammals and amphibians per square metre than any other country on Earth.
• Ecuador was one of the first Latin American countries to separate the state and church, permit divorce, and grant women the vote; in 1979, it led a wave of re-democratisation in the region and is now the only country that is both a member of OPEC and uses the US dollar as its currency.
• Chimborazo, Ecuadors highest peak at 6268m, is the furthest point from the centre of the Earth due to the planets equatorial bulge.

But beyond the constant buzz of political debate and scandal remains a country grandiose landscapes and diverse cultural heritage, of welcoming people and a surprising degree of cultural diversity. The US dollar has provided an anchor of economic stability since 2000, and Ecuador has progressed in general much as Latin America has. Decent roads reach well beyond the major cities, allowing easy access to endless possibilities, from the eternal ice of the glaciers to the tropical lowlands; thrill-seekers can kayak or raft world-class rivers, bike down the slopes of volcanoes and ride the waves of the Pacific Ocean. The country has cosmopolitan major cities as well as rural communities steeped in ancient traditions and hunter-gatherers only recently confronted with the gains and costs of modern society. Hotels and restaurants have improved strongly since the introduction of the dollar, and as a whole the country is well set up for backpackers and independent travellers. Youll find that the biggest challenge most travellers will face is deciding where to go and what to do first.

Where to go

Most visitors fly in to the lofty Ecuadorian capital, Quito , whose glorious colonial old town a mix of pleasant plazas, impressive churches and monasteries and some fascinating museums demands at least a day to explore. Add another to take in more art and culture in the new town as well as climbing to one of the citys many stunning viewpoints. North from Quito, the northern sierra is dappled with glistening lakes backed by volcanic peaks, a region famed for its artesanas centres of native craftwork, leather goods and woodcarving all within a short bus ride of each other. Of these, Otavalo is undoubtedly the biggest attraction, thanks to its enormous Saturday market one of the continents most renowned and flourishing weaving industry. The region also offers plenty of scope for walkers and horse riders, who should consider splashing out on a stay in one of the beautifully converted haciendas , while an increasing number of community-based tourism initiatives provide opportunities to learn first-hand about highland life.