Rough Guides - The Rough Guide to Thailands Beaches and Islands (Travel Guide eBook)

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Contents

Introduction to

Thailands

Beaches & Islands

Despite myriad cultural attractions, sand and sea are what most Thailand holidays are about, and with over three thousand kilometres of tropical coastline there are plenty of stunning white-sand beaches to choose from. In addition, the peculiar shape of the country which is often likened to an elephants head, with Bangkok as the eye, the east coast as the chin, and the peninsular Andaman and Gulf coasts forming the trunk means you can dive, swim and sunbathe all year round, for when the monsoon rains are battering one coast you merely have to cross to the other to escape them.

Geographical differences have given distinctive character to each of the coasts. The Andaman coast is the most dramatic, edged by sheer limestone cliffs carved by wind and water into strange silhouettes, and interleaved with thick bands of mangrove forest. The Gulf coast begins and ends quietly with relatively flat, featureless stretches to the south of Bangkok and down towards the Malaysian border, but peaks at its midpoint, where the peninsular mountains march into the sea to form the wildly varied landscapes of the Samui archipelago and the Ang Thong National Marine Park. A fair chunk of the east coast is dominated by the rigs of offshore oil and gas exploration, but the islands that lie further out have forested spines and gorgeous strands. In short, youll find great beaches on all three coasts: idyllic confections of clear turquoise waters at invitingly balmy temperatures, sand so soft that it squeaks underfoot, and palm trees laden with coconuts.

The Thai royal family started the craze for seaside holidays by making regular trips to Hua Hin in the early 1900s, and the subsequent construction of the Southern Railway Line soon opened up the region to the rest of the population. Inspired by American GIs whod discovered Thailands attractions during their R&R breaks from Vietnam, it wasnt long before foreign holidaymakers followed suit, and these days tourism is the main industry in nearly all Thailands coastal areas. Many of the most beautiful spots have been well and truly discovered, and a number have developed into full-blown high-rise resorts that seem to have more in common with the Costa del Sol than the rest of Southeast Asia. But you need only venture a few kilometres from such anomalies to encounter a more traditional scene of fishing communities, rubber plantations and Buddhist temples. Some forty percent of Thais still earn their living from the land or the sea, and around 85 percent of the population are Theravada Buddhists, a faith that colours all aspects of daily life from the tiered temple rooftops that dominate the skyline, to the omnipresent saffron-robed monks and the packed calendar of festivals.

FACT FILE

• Divided into 76 provinces or changwat and one special administrative area (Bangkok), Thailand was known as Siam until 1939 (and again from 1945 to 1949); some academics suggest changing the name back again, to better reflect the countrys Thai and non-Thai diversity.
• The population of 69 million is made up of ethnic Thais (75 percent) and Chinese (14 percent), with the rest comprising mainly immigrants from neighbouring countries as well as hill-tribespeople.
• Buddhism is the national religion, Islam the largest minority religion, but nearly all Thais also practise some form of animism (spirit worship).
• Since 1932 the country has been a constitutional monarchy. At the time of his death in 2016, King Bhumibol, also known as Rama IX (being the ninth ruler of the Chakri dynasty), was the worlds longest-ruling head of state, having been on the throne since 1946; he was succeeded by his son, who became King Vajiralongkorn (Rama X), though, at the time of writing, the coronation had yet to be held.
• The world record for nonstop kissing was set by two Thai men in Pattaya on Valentines Day, 2012, at a gobsmacking 50 hours, 25 minutes and 1 second.

Where to go

Airline schedules decree that many beach holidays begin in Bangkok, and despite initial impressions, Thailands crazy, polluted capital is well worth at least a couple of days of your time. Within its historic core youll find the countrys most dazzling works of art and architecture, which are complemented by a seductive array of traditional markets and contemporary boutiques, cool bars and outstanding restaurants, in the fashionable downtown area.

Within easy striking distance of Bangkok, the east-coast resort of Pattaya is the countrys most popular and least interesting destination, a concrete warren of hotels and strip joints that makes its money from package tourists who are unaware of what theyre missing. Yet just a few kilometres beyond sits the diminutive island of Ko Samet, whose superb sands are lined with more conducive beach bungalows. East again, just inside the Cambodian border, Ko Chang has retained its upland forest despite the relentless march of resort-style facilities along its shores; but for old-style Thai beach charm, youll need to press on, to tiny, charming Ko Mak and wild, unsullied Ko Kood.

After an interesting inland diversion at the atmospheric, temple-filled town of Phetchaburi, the peninsular Gulf coast kicks off with the historic resort of Hua Hin, now disfigured by excessive hotel development; better to keep going to Pak Nam Prans arty boutique hotels or unspoilt Prachuap Khiri Kan, with its handsome promenade and shady sands. The main draw on this side of the peninsula, though, is the Samui archipelago to the south: Ko Samui itself is the most developed of the three main islands here, but has largely kept its good looks and offers an appealing variety of beachside accommodation, restaurants and facilities; Ko Pha Ngan, with its small resorts and desolate coves, is still firmly backpacker territory, drawing party people to Hat Rin and solitude seekers in equal parts; and Ko Tao is the remotest outcrop of the three, but has established itself as one of the worlds leading centres for scuba-diving courses. On the mainland to the south, Nakhon Si Thammarat is a great place to recharge your cultural and culinary batteries.

KatjaKreder/AWL Images

Across the peninsula, theres extraordinary drama and beauty all along the Andaman coast. Underwater highlights include the polychromatic reefs of the Ko Similan island chain, while above water theres the islet-studded bay of