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Jessica Barnes - Staple Security: Bread and Wheat in Egypt

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Egyptians often say that bread is life; most eat this staple multiple times a day, many relying on the cheap bread subsidized by the government. In Staple Security, Jessica Barnes explores the process of sourcing domestic and foreign wheat for the production of bread and its consumption across urban and rural settings. She traces the anxiety that pervades Egyptian society surrounding the possibility that the nation could run out of wheat or that people might not have enough good bread to eat, and the daily efforts to ensure that this does not happen. With rich ethnographic detail, she takes us into the worlds of cultivating wheat, trading grain, and baking, buying, and eating bread. Linking global flows of grain and a national bread subsidy program with everyday household practices, Barnes theorizes the nexus between food and security, drawing attention to staples and the lengths to which people go to secure their consistent availability and quality.

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Contents
List of Figures
  1. FIGURE I.2. Egypts wheat sector. Figure by Bill Nelson.
    Note: The dotted lines indicate relatively small flows of wheat. They represent the fact that women baking in rural homes sometimes add refined flour in small amounts to their homemade bread, and, if they do not have sufficient wheat from their own harvest, they use 82 percent extraction flour as a supplement (see chapter 5). This diagram notably does not include flows of wheat that are illegal but still take place (such as some farmers sale of wheat to private mills that produce 72 percent flour), nor does it include other parts of the wheat grain and crop (such as the bran or straw), which may be put to a number of different uses.
  2. FIGURE 1.5. Average wheat yields, Egypt. Figure by Bill Nelson.
    Note: Early data taken from Ghanem (1994: 12); data since 1961 taken from the FAOSTAT database, http://faostat.fao.org/faostat.
  3. FIGURE 2.4. Domestic wheat production and procurement. Figure by Bill Nelson.
    Note: Data from 200814 taken from McGill et al. (2015: 36); data from 201420 taken from the USDA Foreign Agricultural Services Egypt Grain and Feed Annual reports, https://gain.fas.usda.gov. These data represent approximations, and for some years there is considerable variability between sources. In 2015 and 2016, for example, a number of agricultural experts challenged the governments figures, alleging corruption, and estimated much lower totals for the procurement of domestic wheat.
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STAPLE SECURITY BREAD AND WHEAT IN EGYPT Jessica Barnes Duke - photo 1

STAPLE SECURITY

BREAD AND WHEAT IN EGYPT

Jessica Barnes

Duke University Press Durham and London2022

2022 Duke University Press

All rights reserved

Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper

Typeset in Portrait and Trade Gothic by Westchester Publishing Services

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Barnes, Jessica, [date] author.

Title: Staple security : bread and wheat in Egypt / Jessica Barnes.

Description: Durham : Duke University Press, 2022. | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2021051021 (print)|

LCCN 2021051022 (ebook)

ISBN 9781478015864 (hardcover)

ISBN 9781478018520 (paperback)

ISBN 9781478023111 (ebook)

Subjects: LCSH : BreadSocial aspectsEgypt. | BreadGovernment policyEgypt. | Bread industrySubsidiesEgypt. | Wheat tradeSocial aspectsEgypt. | Food securityEgypt. | Food supplyEgypt. | BISAC: SOCIAL SCIENCE / Anthropology / Cultural & Social | SOCIAL SCIENCE / Human Geography

Classification: LCC HD 9058. B 743 E 37 2022 (print) | LCC HD 9058. B 743 (ebook) | DDC 338.4/766475230962dc23/eng/20220321

LC record available at https:// lccn .loc .gov /2021051021

LC ebook record available at https:// lccn .loc .gov /2021051022

Cover art: A woman carries bread after purchasing it at a bakery. Cairo, Egypt, March 9, 2017. Reuters/Mohamed Abd El Ghany.

Contents

TRANSLITERATION

I have used a simplified version of the standard system for transliterating Arabic. I represent the letter aynwith and omit diacritics, long vowels, and initial hamzas.

CURRENCY

The Egyptian currency is the Egyptian pound, EGP . One Egyptian pound is made up of 100 piasters. At the time of writing in December 2021, 1

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