Jonathan H. Rees - The Fulton Fish Market: A History
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- Book:The Fulton Fish Market: A History
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This book is a lively and comprehensive history of the Fulton Fish Market, from its founding in 1822 through its move to the Bronx in 2005. Jonathan H. Rees explores the markets workings and significance, tracing the transportation, retailing, and consumption of fish. He tells the stories of the people and institutions that depended on the Fulton Fish Marketincluding fishermen, retail stores, restaurants, and chefsand shows how the market affected what customers in New York and around the country ate. Rees examines transformations in food provisioning systems through the lens of a vital distribution point, arguing that the markets wholesale dealers were innovative businessmen who adapted to technological change in a dynamic industry. He also explains how changes in the urban landscape and economy affected the history of the market and the surrounding neighborhood.
Bringing together economic, technological, urban, culinary, and environmental history, this book demonstrates how the Fulton Fish Market shaped American cuisine, commerce, and culture.
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THE FULTON FISH MARKET
ARTS AND TRADITIONS OF THE TABLE
ARTS AND TRADITIONS OF THE TABLE:
PERSPECTIVES ON CULINARY HISTORY
Albert Sonnenfeld, Series Editor
For a complete list of titles, see
THE FULTON FISH MARKET
A HISTORY
JONATHAN H. REES
Columbia University Press
New York
Columbia University Press wishes to express its appreciation for assistance given by Furthermore: a program of the J. M. Kaplan Fund in the publication of this book.
Columbia University Press
Publishers Since 1893
New YorkChichester, West Sussex
cup.columbia.edu
Copyright 2023 Columbia University Press
All rights reserved
E-ISBN 978-0-231-55462-6
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Rees, Jonathan, 1966 author.
Title: The Fulton Fish Market / Jonathan H. Rees.
Description: New York : Columbia University Press, [2023] | Series: Arts and traditions of the table: perspectives on culinary history | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2022015188 (print) | LCCN 2022015189 (ebook) | ISBN 9780231202565 (hardback) | ISBN 9780231554626 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Fulton Fish Market (New York, N.Y.) | Fish tradeNew York (State)New YorkHistory19th century. | MarketsNew York (State)New YorkHistory19th century.
Classification: LCC HD9458.N5 R44 2023 (print) | LCC HD9458.N5 (ebook) | DDC 338.3/72709747109034dc23/eng/20220411
LC record available at https:// lccn .loc .gov /2022015188
LC ebook record available at https:// lccn .loc .gov /2022015189
Map, : The blocks as depicted here are based upon a map in R. H. Fiedler and J. H. Matthews, Wholesale Trade in Fresh and Frozen Fishery Products and Related Marketing Considerations in New York City, Appendix VI, Report of the U.S. Commissioner of Fisheries for 1925(Washington, DC: Government Printing Office, 1926), 184. The exact size of the buildings built between these streets varied over time.
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Cover design: Julia Kushnirsky
Cover image: painting Naima Rauam
W herever theres water, youll find fish, and luckily for us, most of them are good to eat. You dont need a lot of technology to catch and eat them. Under the right circumstances, you can even do it with your hands. The main limitation if you catch them yourself is that you are restricted to those that inhabit the water wherever you live. Since many fish migrate, you likely cant find all the varieties of fish that inhabit your local waters during every part of the year. However, because there are many different kinds of fish in the sea (and in lakes and rivers), a complicated system gradually emerged that allowed people from one place to eat fish that could only be caught in bodies of water located far away from them. Over time, different provisioning chains for every fish thats good to eat have come together to form a complex web.
These chains are largely invisible to consumers. We expect fish of all kinds to be available in the market, whether those fish swim anywhere near us or not.
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