ALSO BY BARRY LOPEZ
Nonfiction
About This Life: Journeys on the Threshold of Memory (1998)
Apologia (1998)
The Rediscovery of North America (1990)
Crossing Open Ground (1988)
Arctic Dreams: Imagination and Desire in a Northern Landscape (1986)
Of Wolves and Men (1978)
Fiction
Outside (2014)
with engravings by Barry Moser
Resistance (2004)
with monoprints by Alan Magee
Light Action in the Caribbean (2000)
Lessons from the Wolverine (1997)
with illustrations by Tom Pohrt
Field Notes: The Grace Note of the Canyon Wren (1994)
Crow and Weasel (1990)
with illustrations by Tom Pohrt
Winter Count (1981)
River Notes: The Dance of Herons (1979)
Giving Birth to Thunder, Sleeping with His Daughter: Coyote Builds North America (1978)
Desert Notes: Reflections in the Eye of a Raven (1976)
Anthology
Vintage Lopez (2004)
THIS IS A BORZOI BOOK
PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF
Copyright 2019 by Barry Lopez
All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.
www.aaknopf.com
Knopf, Borzoi Books, and the colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.
Grateful acknowledgment is made to Far Corner Books for permission to reprint an excerpt from Kindness from Words Under the Words: Selected Poems by Naomi Shihab Nye, copyright 1995. Reprinted by permission of Far Corner Books.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Lopez, Barry Holstun, 1945 author.
Title: Horizon / by Barry Lopez.
Description: First edition. | New York : Alfred A. Knopf, 2019. | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2018033323 | ISBN 9780394585826 (hardcover)
Subjects: LCSH : Lopez, Barry Holstun, 1945Travel. | Authors, American20th centuryBiography. | TravelSocial aspects.
Classification: LCC PS 3562. O 67 H 67 2019 | DDC 813/.54 [ B ] dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018033323
Ebook ISBN9780525656210
Maps and globe illustrations copyright 2019 by David Lindroth Inc.
Cover photograph by artpartner-images.com/Alamy
Cover design by Carol Devine Carson
: Remember, by Nicholas Roerich
v5.4
ep
For Debra
and for
Peter Matson and Robin Desser,
with profound gratitude for the years of support
To travel, above all, is to change ones skin.
Antoine de Saint-Exupry,
in Southern Mail
Site Maps
Johan Peninsula Area
Alexandra Fjord Lowland
Skraeling Island
Great Rift Valley
Ross Ice Shelf Region
Ross Island
The Dry Valleys
Brunswick Peninsula and the Strait of Magellan
Contents
Coast of Oregon
Eastern Shore of the North Pacific Ocean
Western North America
Mouth of Alexandra Fjord
East Coast of Ellesmere Island
Nunavut
Canada
Isla Santa Cruz
Archipilago de Coln
Eastern Equatorial Pacific
Turkwel River Basin
Western Lake Turkana Uplands
Eastern Equatorial Africa
State of Tasmania
Northern Shore of the Southern Ocean
Southeastern Australia
State of New South Wales
Western Shore of the South Pacific
Queen Maud Mountains
Central Transantarctic Mountains
Northern Edge of the Polar Plateau
Antarctica
Brunswick Peninsula
Shore of the Strait of Magellan
Southern Chile
Authors Note
Horizon is an autobiographical reflection on many years of travel and research, in Antarctica and in more than seventy countries. Some of these travels I financed myself, others I sought grants for or received fellowships to fund. I made several trips on assignment for magazines, and with others I was simply invited to come along. The details, and my expressions of gratitude for those who assisted me over the years, are included in the Acknowledgments.
Most of the journeys described here I made in my forties and fifties. I traveled to the Galpagos Islands, however, and to Australia and Antarctica, on several occasions and at different points in my life. The least complicated way to chronicle these experiences, it seemed, was simply to tell the story, not to try to explain any juxtapositions in time. It might help to know, however, that when I traveled to Cape Foulweather in order to encounter the winter storm I was forty-nine; that I was in my early forties and had just published a book about the North American far north, Arctic Dreams, when I flew into the archeological camp on Skraeling Island; and that I was fifty-four when I made the trip to Graves Nunataks in the Transantarctic Mountains.
As Horizon is meant to be an autobiographical work, I should emphasize that there was a long learning curve inherent in all this sojourning. Ive not tried to be explicit about what was learned (or unlearned) or when, in part because it hasnt always been clear to me what changes might have occurred. The young man visiting the archeological site on Skraeling Island is the same fellow who at the end of the book encounters a stranger on the road to Port Famine, but also not.
Prologue
The boy and I are leaning over a steel railing, staring into the sea. The sun is bright, but shade from a roof above us makes it possible to see clearly into the depths, to observe, quivering there, whats left of the superstructure of a battleship sunk seventy-two years before.
My grandson is nine. I am in my sixty-eighth year.
The memorial terrace on which we are standing, alongside my wife, has been erected above the remains of the USS Arizona, a 608-foot Pennsylvania-class battleship overwhelmed at its moorings on the morning of December 7, 1941, by Japanese dive bombers. It sank in minutes. The flooded hulk, a necropolis ever since, holds the remains of many of the 1,177 sailors and marines killed or drowned on the ship that morning. Im explaining to the boy that sometimes we do this to each other, harm each other on this scale. He knows about September 11, 2001, but he has not yet heard, I think, of Dresden or the Western Front, perhaps not even of Antietam or Hiroshima. I wont tell him today about those other hellfire days. Hes too young. It would be inconsideratecruel, actuallypointedly to fill him in.
Later that morning the three of us snorkel together on a coral reef. We watch schools of tropical fish bolt, furl, and unfurl before us, colored banners in a breeze. Then we have lunch by a pool at the hotel where we are guests. The boy swims tirelessly in the pools glittering aqua-tinted water until his grandmother takes him down to the beach. He runs to jump into the Pacific.
He cant get enough of swimming.
I watch him for a few minutes, flinging himself into the face of wave after wave. His grandmother, knee-deep in the surf, scrutinizes him without letup. Eventually I sit down in a poolside chair with a glass of iced lemonade and begin to read a book Ive started, a biography of the American writer John Steinbeck. I glance up once in a while to gaze at sunlight shuddering on the surface of the ocean, or to follow flocks of sparrows as they flee the tables of the hotels open-air restaurant, where theyve been gleaning crumbs. For prolonged uninterrupted minutes I also watch, with a mixture of curiosity and affection, the hotels other guests, sunning on lounges around the pool or ambling past, completely at ease. The clement air and the benign nature of the light dispose me toward an accommodation with everything here different from myself. When I breathe, Im aware of a dense, perfume-like scenttropical flowers blooming in a nearby hedge. Is it bougainvillea?