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Cooper Ann - Lunch lessons: changing the way we feed our children

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Remember how simple school lunches used to be? Youd have something from every major food group, run around the playground for a while, and you looked and felt fine. But today its not so simple. Schools are actually feeding the American crisis of childhood obesity and malnutrition. Most cafeterias serve a veritable buffet of processed, fried, and sugary foods, and although many schools have attempted to improve, they are still not measuring up: 78 percent of the school lunch programs in America do not meet the USDAs nutritional guidelines.

Chef Ann Cooper has emerged as one of the nations most influential and most respected advocates for changing how our kids eat. In fact, she is something of a renegade lunch lady, minus the hairnet and scooper of mashed potatoes. Ann has worked to transform cafeterias into culinary classrooms. In Lunch Lessons, she and Lisa Holmes spell out how parents and school employees can help instill healthy habits in children.

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Lunch Lessons

CHANGING THE WAY WE FEED OUR CHILDREN

ANN COOPER
AND
LISA M. HOLMES

Dedication Lunch Lessons is dedicated to all the lunch ladies and parents - photo 1

Dedication:

Lunch Lessons is dedicated to all the lunch ladies and parents across this country who are working to provide children with wholesome, nutritious, delicious food. It is your passion and commitment that will rescue future generations from a lifetime of poor health. Keep fighting the good fightit is one we simply cannot afford to lose.

Acknowledgments:

First and foremost we would like to thank Courtney Ross-Holst and the Ross School. It was Rosss vision for her extraordinary school that ultimately inspired us to take on the challenge of improving the National School Lunch Program and changing the way our children eatforever. None of our work would have been possible without Anns remarkable Ross School culinary team (specifically Beth Collins, Deena Chafetz, Colleen Donnelly, Chad Vanderslice, and Robin Volinski) and the support of the schools faculty, staff, students, and parents. We thank each and every one of you for all youve done and continue to do. We are fortunate for the opportunity to share some of the schools recipes with the rest of the world in the pages of this book. We are grateful to Hailey London, the schools Registered Dietician who collaborated with us on Chapter I, Basic Childhood Nutrition, and helped Ann create the Healthy Kids Meal Wheel.

Over the past several years we have met and worked with some extraordinary individuals who have inspired, educated, and generously given us their time, help, and guidance during the writing of Lunch Lessons . Working with Toni Liquori and Kate Adamick formerly of FoodChange, all of the EATWISE kids, and the Kellogg Foundation afforded us tremendous insight and gave us access to still more wonderful recipes for this book. Our gratitude, also, to Stephanie Sarka, an independent consultant working with the NYC Department of Education, Children First Initiative, for helping Toni reach her goals.

We are indebted to Alice Waters, Marsha Guerrerro, Chelsea Chapman, and Esther Cook with the Chez Panisse Foundation who also shared their favorite recipes and anecdotes as well as Zenobia Barlow and Janet Brown with the Center for Ecoliteracy for Rethinking School Lunch and sharing their vision with us. Michele Lawrence, superintendent of the Berkeley Unified School District, and Karen Trilevsky, founder of FullBloom Baking Company both played vital roles in shaping our thoughts for this project. FullBloom also generously donated recipes for the book. Many thanks, also, to all the others who gave their time for interviews and contributed their thoughts and ideas to the writing of this book.

A big thank-you also to Steve Murch at BigOven for his unparalleled help in getting our recipes moved and analyzed. All of our nutritional analyses were done using his fantastic software.

We are grateful for Herb Schaffner, our editor whose passion and dedication to this book have been unflagging, as well as to our agent, Lisa Ekus.

Finally we want to thank Lisa Macon, Michelle Wiesner, Alice Legarde, Nicole Findlay, and Jenny Hops who helped test recipes in their kitchens and at their dinner tables. Our heartfelt thanks also go out to Lisas family, husband, John, and children, Ben and Kaia, who not only shared in the process of this work by tasting and critiquing recipes, but who also supported and brought into clearer focus the necessity of this work.

Contents

Today we are in the throes of an obesity pandemic. Life expectancies are shorter. Thirty to forty percent of children born in the year 2000 will develop diabetes, and a great many of them will have other health problems resulting from obesity. As a surgeon who has dedicated my career to eradicating heart disease and other preventable diseases in adults, I cannot stress enough the importance of healthy diets for your children.

In order for us to combat the health impacts of the diseases related to obesity, we must change the way we feed children, as well as the way we educate them about food and how it relates to their health. The importance of this connection between diet and health cannot be overstressed.

Ann Cooper and Lisa M. Holmes are to be commended for taking a leadership role in the war to improve our childrens health. As they raise their fists against the overuse of chemicals by agribusiness and the corporate infiltration of schools by fast food and processed-foods manufacturers, they present us with a wonderful guide, filled with in-depth research and delicious recipes, to changing our childrens eating habits both at home and in school. Whether you are a parent, a teacher, a lunch lady, a school administrator, or just a caring individual, this book will change the way you think about school lunch.

Mehmet Oz

Professor and Vice Chair of Surgery

New York-Presbyterian/Columbia University


In 1999 and 2000 we collaborated on Bitter Harvest: A Chefs Perspective on the Hidden Danger in the Foods We Eat and What You Can Do About It (Routledge 2000), a book whose purpose it was to raise public awareness not only of the pesticides, herbicides, genetically altered foods, and growth hormones that have infiltrated our food supply, but also to show how we can all work toward the long-term sustainability of the planet simply by changing the way we eat. How we purchase, prepare, and consume our foods matters deeply to our health as well as to the long-term health of the Earth. Our research for Bitter Harvest was wide and varied, but when we came across a piece of research that indicated that children born in the year 2000 would be the first in our countrys history to die at a younger age than their parents, our focus was sharpened. We set about, in our own ways, to help kids make healthy changes in their lives. In this collaboration we come together as a mother and a school food advocate to bring you a collection of healthful recipes and helpful tips to forever change the way your children eat and live.


A mans palate can,
in time,
become accustomed
to anything.

N APOLEON B ONAPARTE


Outside Mullen Hall a Massachusetts public elementary school on Katherine Lee - photo 2

Outside Mullen Hall, a Massachusetts public elementary school on Katherine Lee Bates Road just across from the Falmouth Public Library, there is, inevitably, a traffic jam just before nine oclock each weekday morning. Caused in no small part by the crossing guard who works at a perplexing pace, the confusing beehive of activity seems endless. Children hurry out of minivans by the dozens, backpacks dragging the ground as they run toward the schools front door.

Since these children are still quite young, most arent showing signs of obesity yet, but if their eating habits dont change now theyll soon be on the wrong end of the statistics. Many already are. The percentage of obese children in America today has more than doubled since 1970. More than 35 percent of our nations children are overweight, 25 percent are obese, and 14 percent have type 2 diabetes, a condition previously seen primarily in adults. Processed foods favored by schools and busy moms for their convenience not only contribute to obesity, they also contain additives and preservatives and are tainted with herbicide and pesticide residues that are believed to cause a variety of illnesses, including cancer. In fact, current research shows that 40 percent of all cancers are attributable to diet. Many hundreds of thousands of Americans die of diet-related illnesses each year. People in America today simply do not know how to eat properly, and they dont seem to have time to figure out howso fast food, home meal replacements, and processed foods take the place of good, healthy cooking. There couldnt be a worse alternative.

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