Beckey - Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass

CLIMBING AND HIGH ROUTES

2: STEVENS PASS TO RAINY PASS

Third Edition

Fred Beckey

A NOTE ABOUT SAFETY

Many users of this book will not need to be reminded that, because mountain conditions are subject to change, weather may change rapidly, and safety always depends on the preparation, skill, and judgment of the climbers involved, the descriptions in this book are not representations that the routes described are safe and do not list every possible hazard that a climber may confront. A large part of the excitement and challenge of hiking and climbing is meeting risks that cant be predicted and are not normally present in a nonmountain environment. It is one of climbings basic axioms that when you climb, you assume these risks, and must assume responsibility for your own safety. Any guidebook, no matter how comprehensive, can give you only limited advice and information.

The Mountaineers Books

1977, 1989, 2003 by Fred Beckey. All rights reserved.

First edition 1977, second edition 1989, revised 1996. Third edition 2003.

Printed in the United States of America

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Published simultaneously in Great Britain by Cordee, 3a DeMontfort Street, Leicester, England, LE1 7HD

Project editor: Christine Clifton-Thornton

Editor: Kris Fulsaas

Maps and photo overlays: Gray Mouse Graphics

Cover design: The Mountaineers Books

Book design and typography: Gray Mouse Graphics

Cover photograph: [TK]

Frontispiece: Bonanza Peak, north face. Photo by Curtis James

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Beckey, Fred. W., 1921

Cascade alpine guide : climbing and high routes / Fred Beckey.3rd ed.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and indexes.

ISBN 0-89886-838-6 (pbk. : v. 2)

1. MountaineeringCascade RangeGuidebooks. 2. Cascade RangeGuidebooks.

3. Washington (State)Guidebooks. I. Title.

GV199.42.C37 B4 2003

917.9504'44dc21 00-010140

ISBN 0-89886-577-8 (pbk. : v. 1)

ISBN 0-89886-423-2 (pbk. : v. 3)

Printed on recycled paper

Stevens Pass and Skykomish River to Suiattle River

Stevens Pass and Wenatchee River to Suiattle Pass and Railroad Creek

Suiattle River to Skagit River (West Side) and Lake Chelan to Granite Creek (East Side)

Prior to and during the preparation of this guidebook I incurred many literary and source obligations beyond those acknowledged here. A statement of appreciation to those who donated information and conducted earlier research is entirely inadequate, for this volume is patently enriched by many individual contributions. I trust some manner of vested interest in the final result will serve as an expression of my gratitude to persons not specifically named here.

Austin Post reviewed the material on glacial history and present glaciers in the North Cascades. Professor Joseph Vance critiqued rough drafts concerning bedrock geology. Rowland Tabor, Ned Brown, and Jeff Carey reviewed material on geology, and Jon Arnett assisted me with the subject of vegetation. Materials on glacial geology and geography were reviewed by William A. Long and Will F. Thompson. Philip Woodhouse verified data and provided history of the Monte Cristo mines. Personnel from the Forest Service and National Park Service reviewed mileages on approach routes and informed me of road and trail changes. Jon Douglass of North Cascades National Park reviewed policies and natural history.

Many dedicated climbers and hikers contributed route information and improved schematic topos. For this assistance I am particularly indebted to Howard Armstrong, Jerry Baille, Mark Bebie, Dave Beeden, Ray Borbon, Gary Brill, Barry Brown, Bruce Bryant, Kenn Carpenter, Joe Catellani, Dave Creeden, John DeLorie, Pete Doorish, Betty Felton, Joe Firey, Bill Fix, Steve Fry, Bruce Gibbs, Donald J. Goodman, Robert Grant, Colin Haley, Anthony Hovey, Dallas Kloke, Jens Klubberud, Russ Kroeker, Rich McGuire, Ron Miller, Tom Miller, Jim Nelson, Mark Owen, John Pollock, Roy Ratliff, John Roper, Mickey Schurr, Lowell Skoog, Steve Stroming, Rowland Tabor, Joseph Vance, Dwight Watson, and Don Williamson.

Much of the historical research conducted for this volume is grounded in various libraries. The personnel of these institutions are to be thanked for assistance in locating source material and providing reference suggestions. Among these were the National Archives, Washington, D.C.; Bancroft Library of the University of California, Berkeley; Special Collections Division and Regional Manuscripts Collection of the University of Washington; Henry E. Huntington Library, San Marino, California; Western History Research Center of the University of Wyoming; Seattle Public Library; Oregon State Historical Society; and Washington State Library, Olympia.

Considerable valuable material was obtained from the Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul, including letters, records, and diaries related to railroad exploration. Worthy research was done at Federal Records Center, Seattle, and at the library and photographic files of the U.S. Geological Survey, Tacoma.

John V. A. F. Neal skillfully prepared the route markings on photographs, and Gary Rands, with patient devotion, prepared exacting maps and schematic drawings for the first edition. For the second edition, I am also indebted to Nick Gregoric, who drew many beautiful maps, topos, overlays, and sketches, and to Ann Alexander, who prepared the fine geologic map of the region. For the third edition, Marge and Ted Mueller of Gray Mouse Graphics converted the artwork to electronic format, and created several new pieces.

The guidebook is not only a timely reference work but a fascinating collection of spectacular photography, and particular thanks for providing needed scenes is here given to Jeff Colehour, Ed Cooper, Harold Deery, Philip Leatherman, Tom Miller, John V. A. F. Neal, and Robert DeWitz of the U.S. Forest Service.

Special mention is due Austin Post for his high-resolution aerial oblique photographs sponsored by the U.S. Geological Survey. The pictures by Post are a tribute to the grandeur and complexity of a superb mountain wilderness. His camera has shown the beauty of sculptured cirques, ice-draped peaks, and ice-freed alp slopes, although photographs were specifically taken to record features of glaciation and changes in glacier activity.

An appreciative note is given to Peggy Ferber, Tom Miller, and John Pollock, who accepted the role of liaison between the author and the Literary Fund Committee of The Mountaineers at the inception of this guidebook in the early 1970s. The third revision was a comprehensive project with the editing and production supervised by Christine Clifton-Thornton and Marge Mueller.