Kate Atherley - Custom Socks

Chapter 1
On Sock Sizing

Chapter 2
On Yarn, Needles, and Gauge

Chapter 3
On the Basic Patterns

Chapter 4
On Adding Stitch Patterns

Chapter 5
On Adjustments for Non-Average Feet

Everyones feet are different. Even two people who wear exactly the same size shoes canand usually dohave very differently shaped feet.

Yet not all sock patterns address that reality. A good sock pattern comes in multiple sizes, but, even so, a particular design might not accommodate your particular needs.

Ive got smaller-than-average feet, and my first few pairs of handknitted socks were disappointing. In some cases, it was because I used patterns that didnt provide an appropriate size for me; in other cases, it was because I didnt understand the sizing information given.

Custom Socks is designed to help you knit socks that really fit by helping you understand sock sizing information, by teaching you how to properly measure your feet, and by explaining how to customize a sock for your specific needs.

There are two basic templates in this book: one for a . Ive provided handy tables of all the key numbers for finished sock circumferences from 5 inches (12.5 cm) to 1012 inches (26.5 cm)to fit feet ranging from 512 inches (14 cm) to 12 inches (30.5 cm) in circumferencein gauges that range from 4 to 9 stitches per inch (2.5 cm). If youre knitting for a foot with an average size and shape, these tables will give you all the numbers you need to make socks that fit perfectly, whether you work from the toe up or from the cuff down.

But, because not everyone is average, Ive also provided all the formulas you need to easily calculate the numbers that will work for you. Ive also included information on foot shapes and sizes to help you determine what shape sock will fit you best and detailed instructions for modifying the basic patterns for special needs.

Proper-fitting socks not only look great, but they feel greatand they last longer. The information in this book will ensure that you have the best-fitting and the best-wearing socks ever!

The first step in knitting a pair of well-fitting socks is to understand how a sock fits a foot and how your particular foot is shaped.

Socks should be worn with a little bit of negative easethat is, they should be smaller than the foot (and leg) theyre to cover. You want the sock to have to stretch a bit so that it will stay up on your leg and stay in place on your foot. A common problem cited with handknitted socks is that in many cases, this is simply because the sock is too big.

A handknitted sock (especially one made out of wool or other animal fibers; see ) will stretch out over the day. Unless the sock stretches somewhat to fit your foot, this added stretch can cause the sock to become floppy as the day wears on. In addition to feeling uncomfortable, loose floppy socks will move around inside shoes and wear out much quicker due to the added friction. A sock that has to stretch to fit your foot will stay put on your foot, feel comfortable, and resist abrasion.

For the best fit, a sock for an adult should measure about 10 percentpractically speaking, that corresponds to about 1 inch (2.5 cm)smaller than the actual leg or foot circumference, and about 12 inch (1.3 cm) shorter than the actual foot length. A sock for a child should also measure about 10 percent smaller in circumferenceabout 12 inch (1.3 cm) for a foot with a 5 inch (12.5 cm) circumferenceand about 14 inch to 12 inch (6 mm to 1.3 cm) shorter in length.

If you havent been choosing your sock size based on these rules, chances are that you havent enjoyed well-fitting socks. Follow these guidelines for your next pair of socks and youll find an instant improvement in fit, even if youre following a standard pattern.

Before we continue, lets take a look at how typical sock patterns are sized. The finished size of the majority of sock patternswhether theyre knitted toe up or top downis based on the foot or ankle circumference. This makes sensethe socks have to fit around the foot and ankle, whereas the foot length and the leg length can be easily adjusted by working more or fewer rounds.

When we talk about foot circumference, we mean the measurement taken around the ball of the foot, discounting any bunions. You dont want to include a bunion in this measurement because that bony protuberance typically occupies less than 1 inch (2.5 cm), or 10 percent, of the foot circumference or foot length. The inherent stretch in knitted fabric will accommodate this amount of variation. If you based the sock size on that larger circumference, the sock would be too big for 90 percent of your foot. This is why its good to be a knitterwe make a fabric that stretches. A sock with 10 percent negative ease will still stretch to fit comfortably around an area thats a bit larger.

When we talk about ankle circumference, we mean the measurement around the narrowest part of your ankleusually just above those characteristic rounded bones.

Most sock patterns assume that the wearers foot circumference and ankle circumference are the same. Most sock patterns call this measurement the leg circumference because, for the majority of calf-length sock patterns, the circumference of the sock leg is constant from the top of cuff to the top of the heel (well talk later about making adjustments to the sock leg circumference). So, assuming your foot confirms to this standard, you can base your size on either measurement. But remember that you want to allow for negative ease, so the finished size that you want to follow should be 10 percentthats about 1 inch (2.5 cm) for an adult socksmaller than your actual foot or ankle circumference.

Not all sock patterns provide the same sizing information. Ideally, you want to know the finished measurements or actual size of the sock. This will tell you exactly what to expect in the knitted sock. Sizes that are described as to fit or foot size describe the foot intended to wear the sock, not the actual sock measurements. Unless you know exactly how much (if any) negative ease is allowed, these measurements wont tell you the actual size of the finished sock.

If the sock sizes are given as a finished ankle or foot circumference: Choose a size that has about 10 percent negative easeabout 1 inch (2.5 cm) for an average adult sock; about 14 inch to 12 inch (6 mm to 1.3 cm) for an average childs sock.

If the sock sizes are given as shoe size: First check where the pattern was publishedshoe sizes differ regionally and a U.S. size 7 shoe is different than a U.K. size 7 shoe.

In general, shoes are designed with the expectation that a longer foot (larger shoe size) corresponds to a larger foot circumference, and shoe sizes assume that the foot has an average or medium width. If your foot is narrow, youll probably find the socks too big; if your foot is wide, youll probably find the socks too small.

The only way to know for sure what the finished sock will measure around the foot or leg is to divide the number of stitches in the foot or leg by the number of stitches per inch in the stitch pattern used (assuming the stitch gauge for the pattern used on the foot or leg is provided).