Kim McCoy - Waves and Beaches: Explaining the Interaction of Sea and Coast - an Updated Classic

WAVES andBEACHES

T HE P OWERFUL D YNAMICS OF S EA AND C OAST

Patagonia publishes a select list of titles on wilderness, wildlife, and outdoor sports that inspire and restore a connection to the natural world.

1964 Willard Bascom; additional text and illustrations 2020 Kim McCoy.

Photograph copyrights held by the photographer as indicated in captions.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher and copyright holders. Requests should be emailed to or mailed to Patagonia Books, Patagonia Inc., 259 W. Santa Clara St., Ventura, CA 93001-2717.

Revised Third Edition

Hardcover ISBN 9781938340956

E-Book ISBN 9781938340963

Library of Congress Control Number 2020946844

Published by Patagonia Works

Editors Makenna Goodman, John Dutton

Photo Editor Jane Sievert

Art Director/Designer Christina Speed

Figures Willard Bascom, Kim McCoy, Christina Speed

Project Manager Sonia Moore

Graphic Production Rafael Dunn, Tausha Greenblott

Creative Director Bill Boland

Director of Books Karla Olson

Printed in Canada on 100 percent post-consumer recycled paper.

COVER PHOTO: Luke Shadbolt

FRONT END SHEET : Some waves are poorly described by words. The Pacific Ocean. Luke Shadbolt

FIRST SPREAD : The sea carves solid stone with powerful waves and tides. Te Whanganui-A-Hei Marine Reserve, Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand. Luke Shadbolt

TITLE PHOTO : Cyclone Pam kicks up some swell on the Coromandel Peninsula, New Zealand. Rambo Estrada

For Anitra, Rodney, Sarah, Austin, Madelyn, Nico,

The Maltese Islands,

and

All those who love the sea.

A black-sand beach is the result of waves transforming hard volcanic rock into soft, black sandone grain at a time. Iceland. Adela Jezkova/EyeEm via Getty Images

A surfer gets in position to take advantage of a peaking wave. Notice the shadows on the bottom, which reveal the texture of the waters surface. Kirra, Gold Coast, Australia. Ted Grambeau

Generations of scientists, surfers, and sailors have used Willard Bascoms classic Waves and Beaches. This third edition celebrates the relationship of the sea and the land in the twenty-first century. And although time has passed since the first publication, the crashing of waves and the formation of beaches have not changed.