Jane Fales - Dress Making - Drafting and Pattern Making

By

Jane Fales

The drafting system presented here has two marked advantages: the lack of expense connected with its use and the simplicity of its method. Both must be considered in teaching, especially in public schools.

Many systems include a large number of complicated measures and numerous directions, most of which are arbitrary and consequently must be largely a question of memory. In addition, there are various expensive charts, curves, squares, etc., required. In this system few measures are taken, and the attempt is made to show, as far as possible, not only a definite reason for the directions given but their relation to the proportions of the figure for which the pattern is to be made. There is but little memorizing, and all the tools necessary are a square, a tape-measure, drafting-paper, a soft pencil, and a good eraser.

The garments drafted include:

I. Shirt-Waist.

II. Shirt-Waist Sleeve.

III. Foundation Skirt.

IV. Tight-Fitting Waist and Collar.

V. Tight-Fitting Sleeve.

VI. Kimono Waist.

The same general construction lines form the basis for the shirt-waist, tight-fitting-waist, and kimono-waist patterns. As these are intended for foundation patterns from which any desired style may be developed no marked changes in the drafting directions need be made to meet a change in fashion. The construction lines of the skirt pattern are based on the hip measures of the wearer and the width desired at the bottom of the skirt. By changing the second measurethat of the width of the skirtaccording to the demand of fashion the pattern may be given any desired amount of fulness without changing the general method of its construction.

Like all drafting systems and all commercial patterns, this drafting system is not infallible. It will not fit unless the measures are accurately taken and the directions carefully followed, and even with care it may not always suit the unusual figure. Directions for possible changes are included which, it is hoped, will help to solve some difficulties.

The practicability of drafting is sometimes questioned. As a basis for pattern-making and dress-designing, however, it is invaluable to the student. It is seldom used by dressmakers, except to acquire a set of foundation patterns of regular measurements, with good proportions and good lines, from which other patterns of varying measures are made as required. The designers in good dressmaking establishments have usually already acquired so much skill by experience that they do not need more of the preliminary drill which drafting gives. Many students and teachers sew well but they have little opportunity to become skilled through practice in the designing which is the important factor in all good dressmaking. The appreciation for good line and proportion which is given by drafting and the subsequent pattern-making would seldom if ever be acquired by them in using patterns made by others which would require no thought on their part. The ability to make any desired pattern gives an independence which is invaluable and usually arouses greater interest and enthusiasm in the worker than does the use of a ready-made pattern.

For beginners it is always wise to draft to regulation measures first, as it gives practice without any of the complications which may arise when individual measures are used. Regulation measures are given with each draft. All the drafts illustrated in this book are worked out according to regulation measures and, except those for the skirt and kimono waist, to a one-quarter-inch scale. The size of these necessitates the use of a one-eighth-inch scale.

The shirt-waist is generally given as the first problem in drafting because it is simple and because, whether cut from a commercial pattern or a draft, it is most often the first garment made. In making a dress, however, the logical procedure seems to be to cut the skirt first, if both the skirt and the waist are to be made from the same piece of material, as the skirt usually requires uncut lengths while a waist may often be made from pieces. There is no law governing the order of drafting, and, as each draft is a complete problem in itself, the order of procedure may safely be decided by the worker with reference to her dressmaking course as a whole.

Length Measures

(1) Length of back 15

(2) Length of front 15

(3) Length of underarm 7

Width Measures

(1) Width of back 14

(2) Width of chest 14

(3) Bust 38

(4) Waist 26

(5) Neck 13

Individual measures are taken as described in the preceding chapter.

The shirt-waist pattern is composed of two pieces, one half the back and one half the front. These may both be made, side by side, on one sheet of drafting-paper about 36 in length. The back is drafted first.

In the upper left-hand corner of the paper two lines at right angles and of indefinite length should be drawn. The work then proceeds as follows:

(1) To Determine the Foundation Lines:

(2) To Determine the Neck Line:

(3) To Determine the Centre Back Line:

(4) To Determine the Shoulder Line:

(5) To Determine the Underarm Seam: