Gerry Roach - Colorados Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs

Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and requires good decision making and safe climbing technique. The information contained in this book is based upon the experiences of the author and might not be perceived as accurate by other persons. This book is not a substitute for sound judgment. Extreme care should be taken when following any of the routes or techniques described in this book. It is intended for use by hikers and climbers who have requisite training, experience, and knowledge. It is not intended to be used as an instructional guide. Proper clothing and equipment are essential when attempting to climb any of the routes described in this book. Failure to have the requisite experience, equipment, and conditioning may subject you to extreme physical danger, including injury and death. The safety of the routes described in this book, as well as any associated dangers, may have changed since the books publication. Maps pictured in this book are based on USGS quadrangles and are for route definition only; use updated, full-scale USGS quadrangles for actual climbs. Neither Chicago Review Press nor the author assume any liability for injury, damage to property, or violation of the law that may arise from the use of this book.

There are no warranties, either express or implied, that the information contained within this book is reliable. There are no implied warranties of merchantability as to this book. There are no warranties that extend beyond the description on the face hereof. Use of this book indicates the users assumption of risk that it may contain errors, as well as acknowledgment that the user is solely accountable for his or her own abilities to climb in a safe and responsible manner.

A few of the trailheads and trails contained in this book are on private property. These routes are noted in the book with a disclaimer Private Property, Permission Required. Prior to using any of these trailheads or trails, the reader must get permission from the property owner; to do otherwise can be considered trespassing. The publisher and the author hereby disclaim any responsibility for utilization of any of these private trails without first obtaining permission.

The coordinates given in this book are based on the new WGS84 horizontal datum. These coordinates are derived from online map sources and may not be accurate. Do not rely on any coordinate in this book, especially for a matter involving safety.

For updates on the information contained in this guidebook, please refer to www.climb.mountains.com.

Copyright 2022 Gerry Roach

Interior photographs 2011 Gerry Roach, except where noted

I Have Not Lost the Magic of Long Days by Geoffrey Winthrop Young originally published in April and Rain, 1936.

All rights reserved.

Published by Chicago Review Press, Incorporated

814 North Franklin Street

Chicago, Illinois 60610

ISBN 978-1-64160-775-9

Library of Congress Control Number: 2022932020

Cover design: Jonathan Hahn

Cover image: Austin Porzak

Interior and map design: Jack Lenzo

Printed in the United States of America

5 4 3 2 1

Mount of the Holy Cross and Angelica couloir.

Colorados Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs is a celebration of the joys that come from climbing Colorados highest peaks. Colorados 14,000-foot peaks offer the hiker and mountaineer one of the finest arrays of alpine challenges in the Rocky Mountains. You can be in the heart of Colorados Fourteener country in a few hours from its metropolitan areas, and the proximity of these peaks to population centers makes them even more precious. A lifetime of adventures is waiting for you in Colorados mountains. Climbing Fourteeners has become increasingly popular in recent years, and the challenge of climbing all the Fourteeners captures many people. The elevation celebration continues.

This guide offers a broad view of Colorados Fourteeners. Besides the often-climbed standard routes, it describes many alternate routes on the easier Fourteeners and, also, several technical routes. Most of the routes on Colorados Fourteeners are walk-ups ( Class 1 , Class 2 , Easy Snow ) or scampers ( Class 2+ ), but there are many wonderful scrambles ( Class 3 , Moderate Snow ) and technical climbs ( Class 4 , Class 5 , Steep Snow ) on these peaks. For the best routes, regardless of difficulty, I use the designation *Classic*, and have given 49 routes this accolade. Most climbers on Colorados Fourteeners climb the standard routes, and these routes are becoming crowded. However, you can still spend days climbing Fourteeners and never see another person. If you are tired of crowded routes, try Longs Loft Route, Democrats North Ridge Route, Yales East Ridge Route, or El Dientes South Slopes Route. Colorado is still full of wilderness!

Over the years, I have cherished the easy routes as much as the harder ones, and I have included a mixture of routes that will titillate the senses of almost anybody. All the routes described in this guide lead to the summit of a peak.

This is a guidebook, pure and simple. It describes where to climb but not how to climb. No book can make judgments for you, but there are several good instructional books that can aid the process of learning the fundamentals. For an introduction to the sport of mountaineering, I recommend Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers book staff (Seattle: The Mountaineers, 2017).

The trailheads I describe are places most vehicles can reach. Sometimes these places are well-marked parking lots at the end of a road, and sometimes they are just places along a continuing road where the road becomes too rough for low-clearance vehicles. Four-wheel-drive vehicles can shorten many of the ascents in Colorado, but I have never felt like this aid was necessary. I need more mountain, not less.

Unlike most guidebooks, which are compilations of many peoples route descriptions, this book is the result of one mans labor of love. I started climbing in Colorado in 1955 and have spent the last seven decades climbing Colorados Fourteeners. I have not rushed through my Fourteeners. I spent a leisurely 20 years climbing them all for the first time. Then I leisurely climbed them all again. I climbed many routes specifically for this guide and documented them immediately after each climb. I continue to field check this guide extensively. Because one person has climbed and reported on these routes, the descriptions are consistent. I believe climbing is a very personal activity, and I seldom give opinions that might intrude on yours. Still, my bias creeps in from time to time.

Mount Massive from the southwest.

This guide is not comprehensive in its coverage of the routes on the Fourteeners. I have not revealed all the secrets of these special peaks. There are many more routes that I could have included. For every route I climbed, I saw two more! Never lose your spirit of discovery. You should finish each climb and each book wanting more.

I welcome route information and constructive criticism from readers. E-mail your comments to .

Anyone who climbs all the Colorado Fourteeners deserves the title Dr. Colorado. Anyone who climbs every route in this guide has graduated Summit Cum Laude! Climb safely and dont forget to have fun.