Caird - Fodors London 2015

Welcome to London! Variously described by poets and statesmen as modern Babylon, Unreal City, enormous Babel, and the City of the free. Indeed majestic Londons always been a city in flux and these days its hard to turn a corner without stumbling into some work-in-progress crater so vast you can only imagine what was there before. This latest wave of development was turbo-charged as the city became a safe haven during the global economic crisis. New neighborhoods continually rise up and burst to the forea visit to the eastern edge of the City should provide you with your quotient of London hipness. The creative fervor that swirls through London like fog shows up in DIY galleries, mini boutiques, and ace hotels.

While many images are seared on your consciousness before you arrivethe guards at Buckingham Palace, the red double-decker buses, and the River Thamestime does not stand still in this ancient and yet gloriously modern city. Instead, London, the buskind stageThe heart, the centre of the living world! is in revolution, and evolves, organically, historically through time. Ask any time-pressed but savvy local and theyll tell you that

is heading skyward.

Londons loosened its collar and showcases some spectacular new architecture, with the pyramid-shaped Shard providing an iconic beacon for the city. With the exceptions of Canary Wharf, the Swiss Re HQ (the Gherkin), the Lloyds of London building, and the London Eye, Londons skyline has traditionally been low-key, with little of the swagger of, say, Shanghai or Manhattan. But a spectacular crop of soaring new office towers with wonderful monikersthe Quill, the Shard, the Pinnacle, the Cheese Grater, and the Walkie Talkieis revitalizing the city skyline. Not everyone loves Renzo Pianos pointy Shard and its 87-floor cloud-piercing vertical city at London Bridge, which has a stunning viewing gallery on the 72nd floor. However, once you visit it, your understanding of the true greatness of the city will explode.

is more global.

The nationalities keep coming, and London now swipes the crown as one of the most cosmopolitan cities on Earth. White Britons are in the minority for the first time (according to the latest census), representing 45% of Londons population of 8.2 million, while Asians make up 18%, black Londoners 13%, European White Others 13%, and mixed-race residents at 5%. But Londons always been a city of immigrantsfrom the 10th century, the city had Cymric Brythons, Belgae and Gauls, East Saxons, and Mercians, Danes, Swedes, and Norwegians, plus Jutes, Franks, and Angles. Today, Londoners simply shrug and are Begone with their business.

is more happening.

Have you picked up one of those free daily London Evening Standard newspapers lately? Theyre stuffed with a smorgasbord of world-class shows, plays, performances, readings, concerts, fashion follies, cabaret, talks, auctions and blockbuster art exhibitions. Whether its contemporary art and old masters paintings at the Frieze London art fair or a one-off guest chefs eight-course surprise meal, London is one of the most happening places on the planet.

is better connected.

Finally, youll notice that the public transports gotten more frequent and more reliable. While Londons traffic often seems more chaotic than New York Citys, the Congestion Charge, the 10-per-day fee imposed on vehicles entering central London, has reduced both traffic and pollution. While the Underground now runs 24 hours a day on weekends, massive tunneling continues apace on Londons flagship, high-speed, Cross Rail underground railway line, which includes new interchanges at Paddington, Tottenham Court Road, and Farringdon stations, slated to open in 2018. Meanwhile, dont miss Londons distinctive sky-blue hire bikes, Barclays Cycle Hire, known locally as Boris Bikes, after London Mayor Boris Johnson. With 8,733 bikes available at 612 docking stations, youll find (after laying down 7 for a weekly pass) that the first half hours free, an hours a quid, and two hours is only 6.

We really shouldnt begrudge it, but some of Londons top cultural attractions seem to be in a Cold War upgrade arms race and are investing heavily in new galleries, exhibits, refurbs, expansions, and assorted shiny new bells and whistles. Look, then, for the new 45-million rehang at Tate Britain that allows you to walk through 500 years of British art organized in strict chronological order, including new galleries on visionary painter William Blake and sculptor Henry Moore. Similarly, Shakespeares Globe has recreated an atmospheric oak-paneled entirely candlelit 350-seat Jacobean indoor theaterthe Sam Wanamaker Playhouse where youll catch intimate bawdy Jacobean plays, historical music and vocalists, and groundbreaking collaborations with groups like the Royal Opera House. And watch out for a radical 120-million renovation at the Southbank Centre, where the Queen Elizabeth Hall, Purcell Room, and Hayward Gallery will soon encompass a slick floating glass pavilion linking up the venues and a new national literature center and poetry library.

Westminster, St. Jamess, and Royal London. This is the place to embrace the Gran turismo label. Snap pictures of the mounted Horse Guards, watch kids clambering onto the lions in Trafalgar Square, and visit stacks of art in the fantastic national galleries. Do brave the crowds to peruse historic Westminster Abbey and its ancient narrative in stone.