Robyn Bardgett - Fodors Bermuda

is still very British. Bermudas British traditions are obvious, from driving on the left side of the road to afternoon tea, to wig-wearing lawyers strolling to court. The national sports are cricket and football, there are bobbies on the beat (policemen on foot), and red letterboxes on street corners. Bermuda is one of the oldest British Overseas Territories, but that said, its completely self-governing, with its own laws. Everyone, including Britons, is treated as a foreigner, as only Bermudians can own property, land, or vote.

is not cheap. The World Bank rates Bermuda as one of the most affluent countries in the world, and it wont take long to understand why. Start saving your dollars for Bermudas high cost of living. Hotel accommodations are expensive, a bag of groceries costs more than $50, and gasoline is three times more than in the U.S. That being said, budget travelers should note that free walking tours are offered in Hamilton and St. Georges, the Botanical Gardens have free entry, and the Gibbs Hill Lighthouse is a bargain at just $2.50.

is crammed full of people. Bermuda is the third most densely populated place on earth. Theres an average of more than 3,000 people per mile, which means there are more than enough happy faces to welcome you. For a bit of breathing space, head to Tuckers Town in St. Georges Parish, the least populated spot on the island.

is strict about cars. Bermuda has several laws governing the size and quantity of vehicles on the road. Only Bermudians or full-time residents are allowed driving licenses, and even then they can only have one car per household. Licensing fees are determined by the length of the vehicle.

relies on the weather. Bermudians rely on rain to fill up their water tanks, as there is no public water system. As soon as it starts to rain, Bermudians talk at length about whether its a passing shower or tank rain. And when they arent talking about the weather, they are hooked to the islands very own weather TV channel.

is crazy about golf. Bermuda has golf courses everywhere you look, so its no surprise that its a popular pastime for many locals. Theres a wide selection of government and privately owned golf courses across the island, making it a golfers paradise. The PGA Grand Slam of Golf is held here in October, but there are also several annual tournaments, such as team knockouts, couples classics, and par 3 championships.

is proud of its traditions. Bermudas history is rich and varied because of its Portuguese immigrants, English settlers, and African slaves. The traditions Bermudians are most proud of include Gombey dancers in colorful costumes, tucking into a codfish and potatoes breakfast, and greeting everyone with a Good Morning or Good Afternoon. But its the Cup Match holiday that really brings islanders together, with the east taking on the west for a traditional two-day cricket match.

Top Reasons to Go

Gorgeous beaches. Bermudas pink-sand beaches, lapped by turquoise water, are some of the worlds most beautiful.

Island sophistication. The island combines British old-world charm with modern luxuries.

St. Georges. Lose yourself (and the crowds) on the winding side streets and mazelike back alleys of this 400-year-old town.

Spectacular spas. The island boasts several state-of-the-art spas and myriad treatments.

World-class golf. Bermuda is unmatched when it come to top-notch golf courses, complete with breathtaking ocean views.

Getting Oriented

When Bermuda was developed back in the early 1600s, surveyors carved out the area around St. Georges (then the capital) and divided the rest of the archipelago into eight districts. These parcels of land were deeded toand named afterthe Bermuda Companys original investors: Hamilton, Smiths, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton, and Sandys. Although parish boundaries no longer delineate property ownership, they continue to function as the island version of state or province lines, and Bermudians remain parochially proud of them. Whether from the West End (anything west of the city of Hamilton), the East End (anything east of the city of Hamilton), or the Town (the city of Hamilton and its surrounding parishes), allegiances are quite publicly paraded when Cup Matchthe annual cricket festival when east faces westrolls around in July or August.

Whats Where

Hamilton and Central Parishes. The city of Hamilton, in the heart of Pembroke, is a bustling little capital referred to as town by locals. Along with major historic sites, Hamilton has the broadest array of restaurants, shops, bars, and museums. Paget Parish, adjoining Pembroke to the south, is best known for its enviable selection of south-shore beaches and Paget Marsh and the Botanical Gardens. Sleepy Devonshire Parish, adjoining Pembroke to the east, is the geographical center of the island, but most travelers merely pass through it. Serious sports enthusiasts are the exception, because the National Sports Centre, National Equestrian Centre, Bermuda Squash Racquets Association, and Ocean View Golf Course are all there. Warwick has Bermudas longest beach; Warwick Long Bay Beach is rarely crowded, even in peak season.