Kristan Raines - On Toast: Tartines, Crostini, and Open-Faced Sandwiches
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OnToast Tartines,Crostini,andOpen-FacedSandwichesKristanRaines
ContentsForeword Everythingthatiswrongwithourculturebeginswiththebookyouholdinyourhands. Theepicfetishismandhighlyfocusedgourmet-ificationofeverythingunderthesun,of whichweareallnowaparticecream,chocolate,coffee,toast,organic,cage-freedonut holeshassomefrighteningaspectsandimportanthistoricalantecedentsyoushouldbe awareof.TheodorAdornocalleditthecultureindustry. Thecultureindustryincludesup-sellingcommonitemsanddoublingtheirpricethrough desireandhypnosis.Intermsofmarketingtastes,peopletodayhavemoreaccessto higher-qualityfoodsthanroyaltydid200yearsago.Thisunprecedenteddemandforthe consumptionofspecialtyitemsasalifestylebymoreandmorepeoplemeansthatthe planetisdying. Howdoesthisrelatetotoast? Toastisasimplefood,accessibletoall.Itisthestuffofpeasantsandfarmersandthe earth.Itiscomfortandnourishment,plainandsimple.Somehow,strangelythough,ittoo hasbecomemomentarilyelevatedtothegourmetplatform,anothershinyobjectinthe pantheonofshinyobjects. Toastishereforareason,though.Ithasanulteriormotive. Whilethissimplefoodhasyourattention,hereiswhattoastisreallytryingtosaytoyou.
Hereiswhatitwantsyoutoknow: About50percentofpeoplewhohaveanear-deathexperiencegetdivorced. Thatsright.Notwhatyouwereexpectingtohear?Iknow,butthatswhattoasthastosay. Additionally,itwantsustoknowthathelpingothersisagooduseofourtime. IwasaskedtowritethisforewordbecausepeoplehavedecidedthatIamoneofthe peoplewhohaveheraldedtheelevationoftoasttoitsnewstatus. In2007IopenedacafcalledTroubleCoffeewith$1000andthehelpofeveryoneI knew.Acommunityofpeoplegatheredtoputupdrywall,fixoldmachinery,andbuild cabinetsinatinyspacethatbecameTroubleCoffee.OurmottoisBuildYourOwnDamn House.Weservecoffee,wholecoconuts,andtoast.ToastwassomethingIgrewupwith. Itsacomfortfood.
LesscomfortablewasanexperiencewhenInearlydrownedlastyear.Ihavebeenan oceanswimmerforaboutelevenyears,apracticethathelpsmeshocktheillusionsoutof mysystem.OnthisparticulardayIlostconsciousnessunderthewater,pinnedagainstthe rocksbyaseriesofroguewavesthatwereliterallypoundingmeintooblivion.Itwasonly becausesomeonehelpedme,riskingtheirownlifetosavemine,thatIfoundmyselfon thebeach,lungsfullofwater,asIlettheoceanoutandbegantobreatheagain. Theworldisfullofpeoplewhoneedourhelp.Thisisagooduseofourtime. Peoplewhocomebackfromnear-deathexperiencescommonlyreportontheirchangeof perspectiveandalsotheuttersillinessofourvariouspursuits,spendingsprees,and tastesthatdonothingtohelpanyone. Afterundergoinganear-deathexperience,itiscommonfortheirpartners,thepeoplewho marriedthemandthoughttheyknewthem,toreportthattheirhusbandsandwives career-driven,money-making,iron-cladstalwartssuddenlybecomealmostunknownto themandjustwanttohelppeople. Drowningwasthebestthingthateverhappenedtome.Ihighlyrecommendit.Itismy wish,andthatoftoastitself,thatyoutoohaveanexperiencebywhichyoubecomewho youreallyare,andunknowntothosearoundyou. Wishingyouthebest, GiuliettaCarelliFounder,TroubleCoffee P.S.AspecialthanksgoestoKristanforsharingherloveofsimplefoods,includingtoast.
Aneedtomaketoastforothers,inallitsvarieties,startedwithourownexperienceas children.Tothisdaythereisamagicwonderthatgoeswithapropertoast. 
IntroductionToastingToastIfyouthinkaboutitforamoment,manyofourmostbelovedmealsaresimplyasliceoftoastorabiscuitputtoitsgreatestuse,suchasEggsBenedictor,ofcourse,Frenchtoast. EachSaturdaymorningmyfatherwouldwakemeupatsunriseandwhiskmeawaytoour favoritebreakfastspot.WewerebeyondregularsIswearourorderswerebeingprepared themomentwewalkedthroughthedoor.Myfatherwouldhaveeggssunnysideupwitha sideofbacon,andIneverwantedtogrowoutofaBelgianwafflewithwhippedcream. Butthemostenjoyablepartofthemorningmealwasalwaysmytrustysideofsourdough toast,smotheredinmeltedbutterandtoppedwithgoodold-fashionedstrawberryjam.It mightbehardtobelieve,butthosefourlittleslicesoftoastbroughtmesomuchjoy,no matterhowfullIwas. Iknowwhatyourethinking: Cantoastreallybethatimportant? Isitnotjusta complementtoameal,evenanafterthought?Well,Ithinkitcanbemore,andoverthe years,Ihavegrowntoappreciatehowversatileasliceoftoastcantrulybe.Actually,if youthinkaboutitforamoment,manyofourmostbelovedmealsaresimplyasliceof toastorabiscuitputtoitsgreatestuse,suchaseggsBenedictor,ofcourse,Frenchtoast. Sowhilefineartisantoastismorelikelytobefoundoncozybreakfasttablesand pioneeringmenustoday,ithasactuallybeenaroundforquitesometime.Ambitioustoast recipeshavebeengainingpopularity,buttheideaofdressingapieceofgrilledtoastfora mealisoneofhistory. Althoughitmighthavedifferentnamesaroundtheworld,theideabehindthismealisthe same:asliceofbreadputtotheflameandadornedwithdelicioustoppings.In Scandinavia,forexample,youwillfindapoplardishcalled smrrebrd.Thisis traditionallyapieceofdarkbrownbread,likerye,coveredwithdifferentspreads,cheeses, meats,orfish.AndinFrance,asliceoftoastcoveredwithfineingredients,essentiallyan open-facedsandwich,iscalledatartine.IwillalwaysrememberthefirsttimeIwentto Paris,whereIhadaverypopulartartine,thecroquemonsieur.Ilovedthefreshham,the meltedGruyre,therichbchamel;andthiswasallcraftedoutofasliceoftoast.So althoughIlovetheessentialapproachthatincludesjustbutterandjam,Ialsothinkthat toastcanactuallyholdtheweightofprovidingagenuinelysatisfyingmeal.Thatswhy Ivewrittenthisbook.
Ihaveapassionforcomingupwithgreatideasandusingproducethatsinseason,andso Ihavecarriedthismind-setintocreatingeachrecipe.Ihavedividedalltherecipesamong thefourseasons,sothatthereisauniqueapproachaccordingtowhatisnaturallyyielded duringthattime.Itismyhopethatyouwillbeinspiredtogooutandsearchthroughyour localfarmersmarkettofindfreshproduceatthepeakofitsseason.Itisnotasthoughyou oughttoavoidcertainproduceifitisunavailable,butratherthatyoushouldbeinspiredto explorewhat isinseasonandletthatguidethedevelopmentofyourmeals.Sure,a strawberrycantastegoodduringthefall,butfewthingscancomparetotheflavorof bitingintoafresh,juicy,perfectredstrawberryintheprimeofitsseason. Ihavesetouttorefreshandreimaginethewayweusetoastsoastomakeitasourceof creatingwonderfulmeals.Theresultis100inventivewaystopreparedeliciousmeals withonlyasliceofbreadasyourfoundation.Sowhetheryouwantricottacheese,figs, andhoney,orsmokedsalmonandfennel,orjustasimplecombinationofcompoteand cream,theserecipeswillallowyoutoexploretheflavorstoastcanofferinawholenew way. 
IngredientsandTechniquesTypesofBread Inthespiritofmakingthemostoutoftoast, wehavetorememberhowimportantitisto choosetherighttypeofbread.Beitaloaf ofwhitebreadfromthemarketdownthe streetorarusticloaffromyourownoven, thebottomlineisthatthebreadisjustas importantaseverythingyouputonit.Local bakeriesaretheidealplacetopurchase yourbread,asitisinitsfreshestandmost intentionalform,but,ofcourse,thebread availableatyourlocalstoreswillworkfor anyoftheserecipes.Breadsarefashioned inmanystyles,whichmeanstheyalsovary insize.Justrememberthatthismightaffect theservingsizesforeachtoast,alongwith therecommendedamountsofspread,ever soslightly.
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