Donenfeld - Better on toast: happiness on a slice of bread: 70 irresistible recipes

J ames Beard said, Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts. Its the most basic, the most coveted, and the most craved. Its the tradition that brings us to the table, how we start the day, and the happy beginning of many other meals as well.

One of my first jobs in New York was as a waitress at a now-closed restaurant on the Lower East Side. Because of that job, I speak of being a waitress as my favorite job. I loved being in the hot seat, with food, beverages, and the perfect pacing of a first date all on my shoulders.

The best part of that job was the bread and butter.

Julie and Tasha, the chef-owners, made herb butter, and it was part of the waitresses job to scrape it into little dishes, sprinkle them with salt, and drop them at our tables after guests had placed an order. When the butter was at the right temperature and the Pullman loaf was fresh and sticky, it was impossible to go a shift without being asked by every table for more of both.

The customers were happy, but I was happier, owing to my discovery of the panini press.

After setting up the bread service, Id spread any leftover butter onto as many pieces of bread as I could cover. Id pop them in the panini press and grill up some perfect toast. This would sustain me until shift drink, when Id make some more. That tastehot, crusty bread, a little soft in the center, with a layer of buttery grilled herbsput me on the path that resulted in this book.

I n New York City, Im surrounded by superb bread. Breads Bakery and Maison Kayser arent only in my dreams; they are in Union Square. Bien Cuit and Runner & Stone in Brooklyn are worth a subway ride. There are the classics like semolina raisin at Amys Bread, pizza bianca at Sullivan Street Bakery, baguette at Balthazar. Even if Im doing one-stop shopping, Dean & DeLuca, Agata & Valentina, Citarella, and Whole Foods all have great selections.

And when Im not in New York City, great bread, thankfully, is in abundance. The Whole Foods in Boulder, Colorado, has a tremendous selection. Huckleberry in Los Angeles does great English muffins. Servatii in Cincinnati has unrivaled pretzel bread. Theres a mom-and-pop bakery in most small towns. Fantastic breador at least pretty great breadisnt terribly difficult to find.

Theres baguette, miche, Pullman, and ciabatta for tasty neutrals; brioche, challah, and bread laden with raisins and cranberries and cinnamon for sweetness. Theres grainy bread for texture and rye for tang. Theres bread with olives, walnuts, rosemary, and Parmesan if you want your slices savory.

I have a bread-making friend whom I consider a magician, but I generally dont make bread myself. If, like me, you dont have time to hone your sorcery, then purchase the highest-quality bread that you can find. My recipes are simple so it pays to buy the good stuff. Bread is a fine thing to be left to the pro bakers.

Its not rocket science were talking about here. Its not even molecular gastronomy. Its not specific to any technique, culture, or diet. Food tastes better when its eaten on a piece of hot, crispy bread. Theres something primal about it. We break bread to commune. It satisfies a physical hunger as well as the desire to share.

Bread alone is beautiful but not satisfying. A full loaf of bread can be a dangerous thing, eaten easily and accidentally in a single sitting. But if I top a few slices with some salmon or avocado or even simply sliced radishes, then Im perfectly sated and not wrecked.

A toast, aka a tartine, open-faced sandwich, or smrrebrd (if you want to get fancy when addressing a single-slice serving stacked high), is universal and portable. A toast can be contained, held with one hand while texting a buddy, writing a thank-you note, typing a work email, or applying mascara with the other hand.

Its seductive and satisfying in its simplicity, but toppings can also get creative. A toast is a choose-your-own-adventure in culinary form. Start with baguette, and French doors open. If you start with brown bread, consider something creamy and maybe with a little brine. Want to toast the bread dry or sear it with mayonnaise? Slice it thin; keep it thick? There are so many ways to make it into exactly what you wantand so many ways to use what you already have stocked in the pantry. It can be breakfast with an egg. It can be lunch and dinner. It can be a snack or an appetizer.

I keep it pretty simple, paring down ingredients and techniques. I rely on layering flavors. These recipes are flexible, pointers with room for improvisationI give substitutions, shortcuts, and tips. Toasts can be made by anyone, no matter the level of expertise or the type of kitchen. And they can be eaten anytime, anywhere. Hot, herby bread on the Lower East Side was my primer (see the ) and I still believe theres nothing greater than sliced breadexcept, it turns out, when its toast.

Here, lets toast to toast!

The recipes in this book will be enjoyable with any type of bread, toasted any way, but the following techniques are referenced throughout. Additionally, some of the recipes suggest following these toasting techniques that use ingredients and infusionsthink that get made for specific recipes. Theres more than one way to toast.

1. Heat a generous amount of olive oil (enough to cover the bottom of the pan) in a cast-iron skillet (ideally).

2. Turn the heat on high. When the oil is hot, place the bread in the pan. Turn down the heat if the bread begins to brown too fast. Let toast until golden, 2 to 3 minutes, then flip and repeat on the other side.

3. Finish with a bit of big flaky salt if desired.

If you really want flavor, use enough oil to cover the toast halfway up and toast like that. Thats the heavy-soaking technique.

1. Heat a generous amount of olive oil (enough to cover the bottom of the pan) in a cast-iron skillet (ideally).

2. Turn the heat on high.

3. Place the bread in the oil, then turn it over with tongs to oil both sides. Sprinkle onto the bread the spices or dried herbs of your choicefor example, Old Bay, dried oregano, garlic powder, dry mustard, dried dill, or delicious ras el hanout (usually a combination of cardamom, clove, cinnamon, ground chile pepper, coriander, cumin, pepper, paprika, fenugreek, and turmeric). Damn good on toast .