acknowledgments
The authors and photographer are grateful to the following people for their assistance during the process of researching, photographing and writing this book:
An Khanh, Lee Baker, Michael Baron, Clair Burket, Mrs Cuc and Mr Hoa, Michele dAlbert, Jenny Degussa, Loan de Leo Foster, Catherine Denoual, Diep Dong family, Do Mong Thuy, Doan Dai Tu, director and staff of the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, director of the Ford Foundation, Le Phuc, Lucy Forwood, Richard For-wood, Valerie Gregori Mc-Kenzie, T. J. Grundle-hong of Evason Hideaway, The Hide-away Caf, Mrs Hien, Lawson Johnston, Psyche Kennet, Khanh Minh Tran, Othello Khanh, Quasar Khanh, Suzanne Lecht, Luc Lejeune, Sean Mulraine, Nguyen Van Hung, Phuong An Nguyen, Julia Richards, Arache Sarai and staff at Gaya, Dominic Scriven, Stella So, manager and staff of the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, Mr Son and staff of the Emperor Restaurant, Rene Tayeb, Thai Thai, Tran family, Tran Manh Dat.
Among the above are homeowners and residents who warmly welcomed us into their homes despite the inevitable inconvenience.
Special thanks go to Julia Richards from the Chesterton Petty Company, designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie and Le Phuc, General Secretary of the Vietnamese Photographers Association, whose help was so decisive at the start of this project.
The staff of the Hue citadel and mausoleums, as well as the monks and caretakers of several temples and pagodas in Vietnam, especially in Hoa Lu and Chua Keo, also deserve a special mention for allowing us to photograph these places.
This book would also not have been possible without the support of the City and Province Peoples Committees and their staff in Hanoi, Hue, Ho Chi Minh City and Phu Quoc, who were invariably supportive and took a special interest in the project.
Co-author Bertrand Hartingh is also indebted to Professor Ha Van Tan, whose book on Vietnam Dinhs , coauthored with Nguyen Van, is the only detailed work about these magnificent buildings, and to Roxana Waterson, whose work, The Living House: An Anthropology of Architecture in South-East Asia , is a must for anyone interested in Southeast Asian cultures.
Thanks also go to all the designers, shops and galleries whose work is featured in the book and to the recreation outlets who allowed on-site photography.
Appeal Shop
(Contact: Stella So)
41 Ton That Thiep Street,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 821 3614; e-mail:
gta@hcmc.netnam.vn
Art Vietnam Gallery
(Contact: Suzanne Lecht)
30 Hang Than Street, Hanoi
tel: (84 4) 927 2349; fax: (84 4) 927 2804;
e-mail: artvietnamgallery@gmail.com
Catherine Denoual Maison
15c Thi Sach Street,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 823 9394;
e-mail: cath@catherinedenoual.com
Celadon Green
(Contact: Michele dAlbert)
6/39A Tran Nao, Street 12,
District 2, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 914 4697
Dogma
1st floor, 43 Ton That Thiep
Street, District 1, Ho Chi
Minh City
tel: (84 8) 825 6817
Emu
43 Ton That Thiep Street,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 914 3345; fax: (84 8) 914 3346;
e-mail: info@emuvietnam.com
Evason Hideaway
Beachside Tran Phu,
Nha Trang
tel: (058) 522 222; fax: (058) 525 858;
e-mail: reservations-anamandara@evasonresorts. com
Gaya
(Contact: Arache Sarai)
39 Ton That Thiep
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 744 4713; fax: (84 8) 744 4905;
e-mail: gayavietnam@hcm.vnn.vn
Mekong Merchant
(Contact: Ms Vuong My Linh)
23 Thao Dien Street, An Phu District 2,
Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 744 4713; fax: (84 8) 744 4905;
e-mail: info@mekongmerchant.com
Quasar Khanh International
(Contact: Michele dAlbert)
6/39A Tran Nao, Street 12,
District 2, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 740 4033; fax: (84 8) 740 4032;
e-mail: quasarkhanh@hcm.vnn.vn
Qbar
Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 823 3479
Saigon Kitsch
43 Ton That Thiep Street,
Distict 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 821 8019; fax: (84 8) 914 3346;
e-mail: info@saigonkitsch.com
Song
(Contact: Valery Gregori McKenzie)
47 Ky Con Street,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 914 4088; fax: (84 8) 914 4089;
e-mail: sales@asiasongdesign.com
Spa Tropic
(Contact: Do Mong Thuy)
187B Hai Ba Trung Street,
District 3, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 822 8895; fax: (84 8) 822 8895;
e-mail: info@spatropic.com
Temple Club
29 Ton That Thiep Street,
District 1, Ho Chi Minh City
tel: (84 8) 829 9244; fax: (84 8) 914 4271;
e-mail: templeclub@hcm.vnn.vn
Dragon boats moored along the banks of Hue's meandering Perfume River take tourists for exploratory trips in the vicinity of Hue or for longer journeys upstream to the tombs of the citys former Vietnamese emperors.
THE LAND OF THE RISING DRAGON
Situated on the northern banks of the Perfume River, the Citadel at Hue, protected by massive crenellated walls punctuated by towers and ringed by lotus-filled moats, is an impressive example of Nguyen Dynasty defensive architecture.
H anoi, Saigon, Hue, the names conjure up images of the Far East, of glorious and mysterious emperors, incense floating around wooden pillars in pagodas, golden and red boats slowly sailing up rivers, carved stones of old temples. French cities in a faraway world, Citroens and cyclos trailing in crowded streets, people dressed in colorful clothes or white suits sipping coffee along boulevards planted with trees, umbrellas la Manet on the Mekong. Soldiers dying in the mud, helicopters flying over desperate civilians, silent guerrillas dressed in black, lines of armored vehicles devastating paddy fields. Dien Bien Phu and Khe Sanh, Ho Chi Minh, heat and blood, napalm and agent orange, colors spread along pages in magazines once read by millions anxious to know about Nam.
These images, true or false, have shaped the collective imagination about Vietnam. But those who have been there know that the country is much more. Far from being devastated, in reality Vietnam is filled with dazzling natural beauty, a verdant tapestry of soaring mountains, fertile alluvial deltas, primeval rainforests, mysterious caves, fascinating rock formations, sinuous rivers, spectacular beaches and alluring islands, complemented by peaceful villages, ancient historic sites and pulsating cities, and populated by an incredibly resilient people! In a remarkably short time just over two decades since the North and South were reunited in 1975, Vietnam has been able to offer visitors a feast of culture and history not to mention probably the best cuisine in Asia! In the north, alpine peaks, the Red River delta, the Cao Bang and Vinh Ven plains, Halong Bay, historic Hanoi and a diversity of ethnolinguistic minorities attract visitors. In the center, the ancient imperial city of Hue, the many ethnic minorities and the beaches, dunes and lagoons have tourist pull. In the south, Ho Chi Minh city the former Saigon offers a modern experience while the Mekong delta to the south provides a fascinating insight into life on a flood plain.
Against this complex topographical background, Vietnams history, both early and recent, has been characterized by a permanent flux of migrations, internal movements and an almost continuous struggle for independence. For centuries Vietnam fought to maintain its identity: against China that, for nearly 1,000 years, put the country under a domination that was thrown off in the ninth century, and never ceased to pretend to be the legitimate ruler of its southern neighbour (hence the name of the country, beyond the South); against France, whose colonization lasted less then a century but deeply transformed the country before its rule was ended at Dien Bien Phu; against the USA, that launched a vain but devastating war until the fall of Saigon allowed Vietnam to enjoy peace and started the economic process that make it today one of the fastest growing emerging countries. Thus Vietnam learned to live by many standards and develop a superb ability to syncretize its would-be masters cultural patterns into its own culture.