Erhard Klepper - Costume Through the Ages: Over 1400 Illustrations
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- Book:Costume Through the Ages: Over 1400 Illustrations
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Few books of costume design will prove more useful to artists, students, stage designers, and scholars than this volume. Presenting detailed drawings in a continuous chronological format, it provides a history of costume design through the ages, from the first century A.D. to 1930.Culled from sculpture, lithographs, paintings, illuminated manuscripts, engravings, caricatures, fashion plates, photographs, and magazines, these illustrations have been carefully redrawn to bring out essential lines as well as all the details. Men, women, and children are shown in authentic dress, in characteristic period postures, and coiffed in contemporary hairstyles even their gestures and bearing offer the reader insight into the attitudes and manners of their times. Due to the acceleration of change in styles, the book moves from single pages representing entire centuries to one-page-per-year depictions of fashion development. In all, more than 1,400 illustrations chronicle the full sweep of two millennia of Western garb, from Roman noble to Victorian dandy, from Elizabethan lady to Jazz Age schoolboy all in easily accessible form.Painstakingly researched and meticulously detailed, this book will be a valuable asset and resource for students, illustrators, costume and cultural historians anyone interested in the history of fashion.
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FIRST CENTURY Page 1: 1. Roman lady of the Flavian period, 14-96, Vatican Museum. 2. Livia (d. 29), Museo Nazionale, Naples. 3.Titus (d. 81), Louvre, Paris. 4. Nerva (d. 98), Vatican Museum. 5. Poppaea (d. 65), Vatican Museum. 6. Minatia Polla, c.40, Museo delle Terme, Rome. 7. Marciana (d. 117), Pompeian Museum, Rome. 8. Augustus (d. 14), Altes Museum, Berlin. 9. Statue, c .1 A.D., Altes Museum, Berlin. 10. Statue, Museo Nazionale, Naples.
FIRST AND SECOND CENTURIES Page 2: 1. Drusus Caesar (d. 31), Museo Nazionale, Naples. 2. Livia (d. 29), Glyptothek, Copenhagen. 3. Augustus (d. 14), Capitol, Rome. 4. Statue, Vatican Museum. 5. Statue, just B.C.,Vatican Museum. 6. The so-called Thusnelda, Loggia dei Lanzi, Florence. 7. Matidia, daughter of Trajans sister (d. 117). 8. Roman lady, c .100, Museo Nazionale, Rome.
SECOND AND THIRD CENTURIES Page 3: 1. Commodus (d. 192), Vatican Museum. 2. Figure from Trajans Column. 3. Faustina (d. 141),Vatican Museum. 4. Marcus Aurelius (d. 180), Statue in Venice. 5. Roman General from Trajans Column. 6. Faustina the Younger (d. 175),Vatican Museum. 7. Marcus Aurelius (d. 180), Louvre, Paris. 8. Trajan (d. 119), Vatican Museum. 9. Lady, c.100, Capitoline Museum, Rome. 10. Matidia, daughter of Trajans sister (d. 117). 11. Head of a woman, from Almendingen near Thun, c.300. 12. Statue of a Roman lady, 2nd cent., Palazzo Doria, Rome. 13. Statue of a Roman lady, 2nd cent., Glyptothek, Copenhagen.
FOURTH AND FIFTH CENTURIES Page 4: 1 .Valentinian (d. 375), Statue in Barletta. 2. Julian the Apostate and his wife Helena, 361-3. 3. Ivory carving, 516. 4. Venice, c.400. 5. Stilicho, Regent of the Western Empire, with his wife Serena and son Eucharius, c.395.
SIXTH TO NINTH CENTURIES Page 5: 1-2. Santa Maria della Valle, Cividale, 7th9th cent. 3. Figure from a Ravenna mosaic, 55770. 4. Empress Theodora, 52748. 5. Illumination, c.840, Fulda. 6. Justinian, mosaic in Ravenna, 546-48. 7. Empress Theodora and her Suite, mosaic in Ravenna, 54648.
NINTH TO ELEVENTH CENTURIES Page 6: 1. Gospels of Otto III, end of the 10th cent. 2. Lectionary of the Salzburg School, Monastery of St Nikolaus, Passau, 2nd half of the 11th cent. 3. Psalterium aureum, St Gallen, 9th cent. 4-5. Miniatures, Paris, 11th cent. 6. Tombstone, St Emeran, Regensburg, 1001.
TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES Page 7 : 1. Notre Dame, Paris, 1165. 2. Minster in Westphalia, c.1100. 3. Illumination, Halberstadt, c .1185. 4. Cathedral, Chartres, 13th century.
TWELFTH CENTURY Page 8: 14. Cathedral, Chartres. 5. Chapelle de Claviers, Cantal, c .1150. 6. Cologne, c .1150. 7. Cathedral, Chartres.
THIRTEENTH CENTURY Page 9: 1. Hermann. 2.Thietmar. 3. Reglindis. 4. Hermann. 5. Sizzo. 6. Reglindis (Statues in Naumburg Cathedral). Page 10: 1. Uta. 2. Wilhelm (Both statues in Naumburg Cathedral). 3. Synagogue, Strasbourg Cathedral, 1235-50. 4. Timo von Kistritz. 5. Ekkehard. 6. Uta. 7. Wil Wilhelm von Camberg. (47. Statues in Naumburg Cathedral) Page 11: 1. Emperor Otto I. 2-3. Gepa. 4. Empress Adelheid (Statues in Meissen Cathedral). 5. Cathedral, Rheims, 125070. 6. Empress Adelheid, Meissen Cathedral. Page 12: 1. Lady Gerburg. 2. Ekkehard. 3. Lady Gerburg (Statues in Naumburg Cathedral). 4. Cathedral Treasure, Minden, c.1300. 5. Dietrich, Naumburg Cathedral. Page 13: 1. Cathedral, Amiens. 2. Cathedral, Lincoln, before 1300. 3. Cathedral, Chartres, 122535. 4. Cathedral, Rheims, 126080 5-6. Cathedral, Chartres.
FOURTEENTH CENTURY Page 14: Manesse Codex, beginning of the century. Page 15: 1. Manesse Codex, beginning of the century. 2. Master of the Schnen Brunnen, Nuremberg, c .1400. 3, 5. Tombstone of Ulrich and Elizabeth von Erbach, 136869, Castle Erbach. 4. Anna von Schweidnitz, Prague Cathedral. Page 16: 1. Tombstone of Cinna von Vargula, 1370, Erfurt, Barfsserkirche. 2. Adolph IV, Count von Holstein, painting in the Magdalenenstift, Hamburg, last quarter of the century. 3. Wrzburg, c.1360. 4, 7. Tombstones of the Count von Hirschborn and his wife, 137071, Ersheim near Hirschborn. 56. Tombstone, Frankfurt Cathedral, 1371.
FIFTEENTH CENTURY Page 17: 1. French illumination, 1447. 2. Florentine, painted panel from a cassone, c .1440. 3. French illumination, 1447. 4. Andrea del Castagno, c .1420. 5. French illumination, 1447. 6. Andrea del Castagno, c .1450. 7. Attributed to Domenico Veneziano, c . 1450. Page 18: 1. Master of the Housebook. 2. Rogier van der Weyden, c.1450. 3. Israel van Meckenem, before 1500. 4. Master of Moulins, 1494. 5.Albrecht Drer, Hans Tucher, 1499. 6. Drer, c . 1500. 7, 8. 1. van Meckenem, before 1500. 9. Drer, Elisabeth Tucher, 1499. Page 19: 1-4. Antonio Pisanello, 1430-45. 5. Petrus Christus, 1446. 67. Antonio Pisanello, 143045. Page 20: 1. Rogier van der Weyden, 1435. 2. Jan van Eyck, 1434. 37. Jan van Eyck, second quarter of the century. Page 21: 1. French sculpture, beginning of the cent. 2. Anon. French Master, c.1440. 3. Jacopo della Quercia, tombstone in Lucca Cathedral (?). 4. Masaccio, 1423. 5. Anon. French Master, Jean sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy (d. 1419). Page 22: 1. Albrecht Drer, Self-portrait, 1484. 2. Domenico Ghirlandaio (d. 1494). 3. Lorenzo di Viterbo (d. 1469). 4. Anon. Florentine Master, mid cent. 5. L. di Viterbo (d. 1469). 6. Anon. French Master, c.1500. 7. L. di Viterbo (d. 1469). 8.Anon. Italian Master, c.1500. Page 23: 1. Drer, Self-portrait, 1498. 2-3. Drer, c.1500. 4-5. Drer, 1495. 6. Drer, c.1500. 7. North German Master, c.1500. 8. L. di Viterbo (d. 1469).
SIXTEENTH CENTURY Page 24: 1. Vittore Carpaccio, c.1500. 2. Hans Holbein the Younger, c.1520. 3. Drer, 1515. 4. Holbein, c.1525. 5. Master of the Death of Mary, 1526. 6. Drer, 1514. Page 25: 1. Urs Graf, beginning of the cent. 2. Holbein the Younger, Sir George Cromwell, c.1540. 3. Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1514. 4. Holbein, 1520. Page 26: 1. Drer, 1515. 2. Holbein the Younger, Self-portrait, 1523-24. 35. Holbein, c.1520. Page 27: 1. Lucas van Leyden, 1519. 2. Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1524. 3. Michael Ostendorffer, 1545. 4. Holbein the Younger, c.1520. Page 28: 1. School of Holbein the Younger, Edward VI, c.1550. 2. Plumed cap and its original box, once owned by Christoph Kress von Kressenstein, German Museum, Nuremberg. 3. Holbein the Younger, c.1520. 4. Urs Graf, beginning of the cent. 5. Angelo Bronzino, c.1545. 6. Holbein, c.1520. Page 29: 1. Bronzino, 1553-55. 2. Franois Clouet (d. 1571), Charles IX of France as a boy. 3. Jost Amman, 1577. 4. Antonio Moro, c.1560. Page 30: 1. Franois Clouet, Maria Stuart, 1558. 2-3. Jost Amman, c.1570. 4. Queen Elizabeth, wife of Charles IX, c.1570. 5. J. Amman, c.1570. 6. Holbein the Younger, 1551. 7. J. Amman, c.1570. 8. F. Clouet, Charles IX of France, 1560-74. Page 31: 1. German woodcut, end of the cent. 2. Moro, 1564. 34. German woodcuts, end of the cent. 5. Bronzino, mid cent. 6. Lucas Cranach the Younger, 1564. 7. Cano, c.1560. 8. Holbein the Younger, 1551. Page 32: 1. Cranach the Younger, 1564. 2. Tobias Stimmer, 1564. 3. French School, c.1558. 4. Cranach the Younger, 1564. 5. Pietro Bertelli, Femina Parisiana, 1590. 6. French School, 157580. 7. Jost Amman, 1577. 8. French School, c.1550. 9. Bronzino, c.1560. Page 33: 1. Jost Amman, 1577. 2. Adam vom Oirt, c.1590. 3. French School, c.1560. 46. Italian engravings of French fashions, c.1580. 7. Dutch Master, c.1580. Page 34: 13. Cesare Vecellio (Spain), 1590. 45. Eneas Vico (Spain), 1556. 6. Jacob de Gheyn, c.1590. 7. Italian engraving of French fashion. 8. Vico (Spain), 1556. 9. Vecellio (Spain), c.1590. 10.Vico (Spain), 1556.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY Page 35: 1-9. de St Igny, 1629. 10-13. F. Bruns, 1617 . Page 36: 1. de St lgny, c.1630. 2. Rubens, Susanne Fourment, 1620. 34. de St Igny, c.1630. 5. German Museum, Nuremberg, c.1620. 6. de St Igny, c.1630. 711. Willem Buytewech, 1617. Page 37: 1. de St Igny, 1629. 2. Abraham Bosse, c.1630. 3. Van Dyck, Jacques Callot, c.1630. 4. de St Igny, c.1630. 5. Callot, c.1630. 6-7. Israel Henriet, c.1630. 89. Callot, 1632. 10-11. Callot, c.1630. Page 38: 1. Abraham Bosse, 1633. 2. Le Blond, c.1630. 3. Stefano della Bella, c.1630. 4. Grgoire Huret, c.1630. 5. Bosse, 1629. Page 39: 1. Gerard Terborch, 1645. 23. Wenceslaus Hollar (England), 1641. 4. Hollar, 1643. 5. Terborch, 1640. 6. Terborch, 1656. 7. Terborch, c.1640. 8-9. Van Dyck, 1641. Page 40: 1. Van Dyck, Sir Arthur Goodwin, 1639. 2. Terborch, c.1660. 3. Van Dyck, Sir Thomas Wharton , 1639. 48. Hollar (England), 16434. Page 41: 12. Hollar (England), 1647. 3. Bartholomaeus van der Helst, 1642. 4. Hollar (England), 1647. 5. Terborch, 1663-4. 6. B. van der Helst, 1649. 7. Caspar Netscher, 1665. 8. Terborch, c.1650. 9. Antoine le Nain, 1647. 10. Velazquez, The Infant Prince Balthasar Carlos, 16356. 11. Terborch, c.1640. Page 42: 1. de St Jean, 1678. 2. de St Jean, 1683. 3. French engraving, end of the cent. 4-5. de St Jean, 167884. 6. Hyacinthe Rigaud, Duchesse de Mentone. 7. Carguillire, end of the cent. 8. Carolus Allard, 1680. Page 43: 1. Hyacinthe Rigaud, end of the cent. 2. de St Jean, 1684. 3. Rigaud, end of the cent. 4. Anon. engraving, end of the cent. 5-7. de St Jean, 1684. 8. Victoria and Albert Museum, end of the cent. Page 44: 1. Italian fashion plate, 1689.2. G.Valck, end of the cent. 3. de St Jean,1683. 4. G.Valck, end of the cent. 5. de St Jean, c.1680. 6. G. Valck, end of the cent.
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