About the Author and Illustrator
Elizabeth J. Lewandowski is a professor of theatre at Midwestern State University, where she teaches costuming and stage makeup. She has designed costumes for more than 100 productions, ranging from drama to opera to dance. Her work has been exhibited regionally and nationally. She has served on the boards of a number of local, regional, and national organizations related to the theatrical industry. She received her undergraduate degrees in theatre and music from Bradley University and her MFA from Texas Tech University, where her mentor was Dr.
Forrest Newlin. She is passionate about all things costume related and has a special place in her heart for costume historyrelated subjects, from the history of undergarments to the use of drag in theatre. She is currently beginning work on an article on the history of fancy dress and a book on the history of drag. In her spare time, she enjoys learning new gourmet recipes, sewing for local charities, reading voraciously, spending time with her three cats, and adoring her amazing husband, Dan. Dan Lewandowski earned a BS in theatre, a BS in mass communications from Bradley University (where he met the author), and an AAS in electronics engineering technology from Amarillo College. He has worked in all of the above disciplines for a wide variety of educational and commercial organizations from Chicago to Houston and a few cities in between.
Since he and Elizabeth formed a partnership business called Mostly Harmless in 1995, some of his clients have included KERA-Dallas, Sezmi.com , and Midwestern State University. He describes himself as a mostly harmless, mysterious, flirtatious, occasionally helpful, nocturnal, bipedal, carbon-based life form who is a proud and spectacularly successful house husband, persistently fond of the author (he had to sleep with her for 25 years to get this gig.). He dabbles in writing, reading, ice hockey, philosophy, civil activism, throwing legendary solstice parties, contemplating his cosmic insignificance, and taste testing anything that the world famous author cooks up in her amazing, magic kitchen. He describes the illustration process as starting with the highly talented author quickly and seemingly effortlessly creating a gorgeous line drawing, followed by him utilizing his merely mortal skills to take way too long to tweak the perspective and proportion, smooth the lines, and add shading, color, and texture using Jasc Paint Shop Pro 8.1. He is very grateful for the chance to collaborate on this project and for the authors and editor Stephen Ryans enduring patience.
Acknowledgments
Many people made this book possible.
Acknowledgments
Many people made this book possible.
I want to offer my special thanks to the following people for their inspiration and assistance: to my husband, Dan, for his computer wizardry; to Dan and to Aaron Solomon for their assistance in making many of the 19th-century illustrations possible; to Jessica McCleary and Stephen Ryan at Scarecrow Press for believing in this project and prodding me regularly to keep at it; to the interlibrary loan librarians at Midwestern State University who never turned me away when I came asking them for yet another obscure book; to the reference section librarians at libraries across Texas who helped me with access to their rare book collections; to LaLonnie Lehman, fellow costume designer, who encouraged me to turn this project from a private list of fun words into a book; to my fellow faculty members at Midwestern State University who encouraged me to finish this daunting task; to the members and officers of the U.S. Institute for Theatre Technology (USITT) who constantly challenge themselves and others to improve themselves and expand the world of theater; and to my dear friends who understood when I went into hibernation to finish this project. The illustration of the shako is dedicated to the memory of Karen Tursi (19592010). She used to wear a shako like this, and she made it look good. Finally, my thanks to my parents, Dr. and Caroline Schertz, both educators, who instilled in me from a very young age the desire to read, learn, ask questions, and challenge myself to continually grow intellectually.
Appendix A: Garment Types
ACCESSORIES
lespignole aa puhaka a gumb acessrio aglet agrafe agraffe agulhade aiglet airmchrios ajami alforja anantu hwinie anteojos aparsaig appas postiches Austrian belt avasakthika bacchetta badine bahu baju balg balgan balg-bannaig balg-thional ball-serice blte baltion balusu Balz bandanna basma basto baston con anima batist batom beannag beauty patches beidai bellotas belti benoiton chains Berlin gloves Berlins bigotera bikini chain belt birbla bisha bt-tt tay blte boiseid bokshandschoen boquilha bosom bottles bosom flowers bouffant mecanique boulanger umbrella bouquet de corsage boutonniere bracan braces bragueta brandestoc brandistocchi breast hook bretelle brezekouki brezikci bril briosaid bronnach brumnika builg bulavka bust forms butung bwoom cabestrillo cabriole cachecol cachelaid cadach cadenat caefing calico china button can caari canne canne systme cannes demi-solde cannes-dard cn-quac capacho caracule ceinture cenojil ceruse chai-chieh-pai changgap chao dai charretera chatelaine chauri chicken skin glove chipangi chumbi banderilla chumpi chspas chustka ciarsr cimds cinch belt cnctus cingtoare cingillum cingulum militaire cinta cintaliga cintura cinturo circingle cneaball colan colmar concha coquette cordeliere corking pins coron Muire correia articulada coudires countenances court plaster crambaid crios criosan criosan biodag crios-ceangail crioslachan crios-pheilear crios-tarsainn criss cummerbund curea cut-fingered gloves dabao dai kou daishi dAngri dannocks danpin yanjng datemaki degenkoppel degenstok digitalia doramch dornag dou dou downy calves drapi dress clip dress holder ear string eau de veau end of the day endima English chain enjouee epauleti equipage esmouchoir etui faixa faja falt-dhealg familla faxiolion fazolo fazzoletto fengjng ferenn fetel fetels fibula ficheall fivela flabells flower bottle fob ribbon fci fogle folly bells freiseau frutilla fucus fue fuks fukube-dana funda fusi gadget cane gadget stick gairda galante Galatea comb gallowses galluses gant gants de Swde gants Rgence gartain garter gaucho belt ge dai geideal gemelos geolan ghungru ginglers giraffe comb girdel girdle la victime girdle glass Gladstone bag glf glofi glinean gordel grdel gouriz guanto guard chain gul yaqa guo luo dai gurda Grtel Gurtil gwregys gyrdel gyrdel-hring gyrdels gyrdels-hringe gyrill habit glove haer-naedl hagorah hainaka hainaka ai hainaka lei hainaka paeke hainaka pakeke hair strings hakoseko haling hands halsdoek hances hndschen handschoen hand-scio handske haneeka han-eri Hantschuoch Hantscuoh hanzki heiyanjng heko-obi hemavaikaksha hezaam hezam hinaka hinaka ai hinaka paeke hiogi hiranya-sraj hohos hoo tau dai hoofddoek horitti hose-bend huaaca huaka huallquepo huayaca humujng hunting belt hwajang hyanggap norigae hyire ili kuapo irbora istalla itsembri jambee cane japamala jarreteira jarretiere jatun chumbi jemmy cane jessamine butter jessamy gloves jiao dai josie juosta juostos kaai kadmi kadife kajuk hyokdae kakorzika kakshyabandha kaku obi kalabaku kaliki kalima hamo kamarband kangha kanzashis kanzasi kapesnk kardhani kashmir kaula uaki kayabandh kea ketoh khan mi-soa khan tay knh trang knijpbril knobkerry knoflik knope haak kohl kokade koloa kombologion kooi kookoo amana kshat kumshigye kusak kushak kusi kusti kyaphi kyara-abura laine foulard ljish lmann lmhain lmhan lamhas lmind laska lei lei ai lei alii lei hala lei hulu lei kamoe lei kukui lei leho lei panio lei papa lei papahi lei pauku lei pawehe lei poo lei wiliwili leno li kakini li kaliki liga Limerick gloves lindi loo mask loongee lucky bells m hong maaporeth maddavina mineag majestueuse makarika makhila malabar Malacca cane mald manag manchetknoop maneg manitergium mantaqa mnu marama maramica marate marguerite mariposa mart maru-obi mata tioata mayad meanaigean megane melbbang melppang mendil mikini lima minyiing miotag mirchal mitons mjing mokdori montra moncula mouche mouchoir mouchoir Alma mouchoir de Venus mouchoir Victoria mouchouer moufles mousquetaire muckender muff bracelet muffetees mukyeeng murchal muscadine mtan mwaandaan namaakbusten napkin napkin hook nsduk nasitergium napaicin amhaich napaicin pca neckatee nekoch p nelpiloni nhn-knh niciane rekawiczki nnup nodder nono-obi norigae nosine ntoa nyeeng obang-nangja obi obi-age obi-dome obijime odonarium odonium ogi ir-chrios ojak norigae oogschaduw oogscherm opera glove orarium Oxford gloves padapatra paenang pafte pafti palmok sigye palulu maka pang adari norigae pantserhandschoen pauelo pauelo para el cuello papilotte comb papillotes paraguas parchment calves parfait-contentement parure cornouailles paryanka paryastika ps passionee patka patrontache patta peigne Josephine penang lawyer pennbazh pepperbox percatka perspective glass petticoat suspenders pha beang phaa chet paak phn sp phn son pirkstaine pirtin pishka pistent plumpers pochette pogoni point pojas pjas poking stick pollera pomander pomme dambre pomme de senteur pompeian silk sash porte-jupe pompadour psta poyas poynte prakhotaeo prawing-spinel prievite provincial rose puchae pugovico punjang puoga putting stick quat qu qubpa quitasol quizzing glass qusak raggiera ramall randosel ranetz rasana rat Recamier sash rekawica rekawiczka rhabdoskidophoros Ridgeway buckle romall rond rosenadel Roxburgh muff rukavica saccharine alum samjak norigae sanjaku-obi saptaki sarandrana ay scpa Schiessstcke Schnupftcher schoudertas seileadach seleulu seore sgaileagan shag mittens sharf shash shen dai sherihah shigoki-obi shnur shoe horn shoujun showing horn shuwayhiyyeh skimskin slat-rioghail slaucis sleeve tongs smiotag smugadair smuig-aodach smuigeadach snoskyn snowskin snuftkin sokophouder solosolo sonsugon soudarion soyate Spanish paper Spazierstock spendlk spleuchdan splichan srin-eudach stagen stay hook steutelreecx stibium stithpano Stcke mit Seele stlebelte streachlan strilinn Strumpfhalter subha succinta sudar sudar sheal zero-othav sdrium supplants surveyors stick Swiss belt taalapat taapeka taatua hume taiko obi tai-kou tai-shih tiyngjng talede tali pakkaridi tamentika tanchu tao tieh tas van de Hooglanders Taschentuch tashka tasseled handkerchief tatquevluq tatua tatua-pupara tauri koomore tekko temple spectacles teneir tephillin thi-knh thung tippling cane tiracolo tirantes titi tkanitsa toise mouvante tokbaji toljanggap toneelkijker totoga tou tu tozali Trger trahilia troussoir truffeau trus tsitsera tti tu kartu tubbeck tuichje tukula tu-maurea tu-muka tussoire tusuk tuszo tuu hangoroa tuu kaaretu tuu maro tuu muka tuu ure Twelve Apostles uchilla maki chumbi uchiwa ugly uilebril uku churana up-legen usala vachris vali vandyke ventoye veshovi meshok vethaka vonica v gi wdi waka waka wandelstock wanjang want wantus was and tam washing leather gloves wawa chumbi wedding garter wedding gloves wedding knives whiitiki Woodstock gloves yangmal taenim yelpaze yem dai York tan gloves zakdoek zhaijiepai Ziertaschentuch znak zona zonar zoni zonnebril zoster zunnar asmar zunnar maqruneh zunnar tarabulsi