Leonard Payne - Perfume Accords
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Perfume Accords
LEONARD PAYNE
Copyright 2019 Leonard Payne
All rights reserved.
ISBN:
To the memory of Hans Rookmaaker from whom
I learnt that Art Needs No Justification
To the many and varied who have lent their talents and knowledge, I salute. The mistakes are all mine.
This book is quite simply a collection of perfume accords covering a variety of facets. The quantities originally used were imperial ounces (oz). They could be metric ml or even mg. The point is to keep to the proportions given. You may of course experiment wildly but you always come back to the formulations here. Each accord is followed by an evaluation sheet which you may use 0mor not. I hope you find it helpful.
**Fir Balsam Absolute can be added to any of the following accords to add a bit of a deep juiciness to Hesperidic Accords, as well as to help to anchor down the ingredients a little with its Base Note properties.
**Any Sandalwood, can be used in the same fashionto help fix the volatile materials and extend their life in a fragrance a little bit, especially if set aside to age together for several months.
**Just a touch of various florals, like Jasmine, Rose, Ylang, Neroli, Lavender Absolute, etc. can be added to introduce a touch of voluptuousness to that bright, shiny Hesperidic Accord. Ylang and Jasmine, in particular, are great to do this with, as well as Neroli or Neroli Petit-grain Sur Fleur . Just a touch, mind you. Too much, and it will begin to smell more floralunless thats what youre going for.
**Using Bergamot + Petit-grain Bergamot is a great way to add a shiny olfactory quality that extends well beyond using just Bergamot by itself.
Bergamot | |
Petit-Grain, Bergamot | |
Blood Orange | |
Kaffir Lime Leaf | |
Orange, Wild | |
Mandarin, Green | |
Tangerine | |
+/- Neroli Petit-Grain sur Fleur | |
Rosewood | |
Ylang | |
Frankincense | |
Addition +/- | |
Benzoin Resin | |
Vetiver | |
To add a Green Galbanum | 1-5 |
To add a Leafy Green Violet Leaf | 1-5 |
To add a little Spiceiness Tulsi | 1-5 |
To add a little Warm Spiciness Cinnamon Bark | |
And/or Cinnamon, Leaf | 1-2 |
Strong | Weak | Same | Dry Down Notes |
Evaluation at 15 mins | |||
Evaluation at 30 mins | |||
Evaluation at 1 hour | |||
Evaluation at 2 hours | |||
Evaluation at 3 hours | |||
Evaluation at 6 hours | |||
Evaluation at 12 hours | |||
Evaluation at 24+ hrs |
Grapefruit, Ruby Red | |
Grapefruit, Pink | |
Rosewood | |
Ylang | |
** All of the previous +/- can apply here as well |
Strong | Weak | Same | Dry Down Notes |
Evaluation at 15 mins | |||
Evaluation at 30 mins | |||
Evaluation at 1 hour | |||
Evaluation at 2 hours | |||
Evaluation at 3 hours | |||
Evaluation at 6 hours | |||
Evaluation at 12 hours | |||
Evaluation at 24+ hrs |
Yuzu | |
Jasmine | |
Fir,Balsam, Absolute |
Strong | Weak | Same | Dry Down Notes |
Evaluation at 15 mins | |||
Evaluation at 30 mins | |||
Evaluation at 1 hour | |||
Evaluation at 2 hours | |||
Evaluation at 3 hours | |||
Evaluation at 6 hours | |||
Evaluation at 12 hours | |||
Evaluation at 24+ hrs |
Yuzu | |
Lemon | |
Orange, Wild | |
Ginger |
Strong | Weak | Same | Dry Down Notes |
Evaluation at 15 mins | |||
Evaluation at 30 mins | |||
Evaluation at 1 hour | |||
Evaluation at 2 hours | |||
Evaluation at 3 hours | |||
Evaluation at 6 hours | |||
Evaluation at 12 hours | |||
Evaluation at 24+ hrs |
These recipes are taken from a book for those wanting to distill their own liquors. Of course, there are some ingredients, like Grains of Paradise, that have no fragrance value, and are there for their taste, only. So look through, and keep that in mind.
All gins include juniper as an ingredient along with other botanicals. Typically a fine gin contains 6-10 botanicals, although the Dutch Damask Gin has 17 and the French Citadelle Gin has 19 but this could be more for marketing reasons and has been criticized for lacking direction.
Botanical names:
Juniper - juniperus communis
Coriander - coriandrum sativum
Angelica - archangelica officinalis
Cassia - cinnamomum cassia
Cinnamon - cinnamomum zeylanicum
Ciquorice - glycyrrihiza sp.
Bitter Almond - prunus dulcis, amara
Grains of Paradise - afromumum melegueta **Not a Perfume Ingredient
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