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Nathalie Grainger - Quintessentially Perfume

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Nathalie Grainger Quintessentially Perfume

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This luxurious hard-cover book chronicles the development and universe of perfume over the course of two hundred pages and nine fascinating chapters. Perfume lovers will appreciate the beautifully illustrated and in-depth interviews of perfume creators, eloquent articles from perfume writers and experts, as well as a showcase chapter paying tribute to thirty-nine world-class perfume brands. These include a rich and varied cross section of collections that cover different styles and approaches including brands whose appeal has gained mainstream recognition, as well as those who have deliberately sought to retain their niche identity.

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Published by Quintessentially Publishing Ltd 10 Carlisle Street London W1D 3BR - photo 1

Published by Quintessentially Publishing Ltd.
10 Carlisle Street
London W1D 3BR
Tel: +44 (0)845 224 7419
Fax: +44 (0)207 692 0213

Email (for orders and customer service enquiries)

Visit us at: www.quintessentiallypublishing.com

Copyright 2010 Quintessentially Publishing Ltd.
All rights Reserved

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any forms or by any means, electronics, mechanical, including photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise expect for the purpose of review, without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN 9780955827068
Printed and bound in the UK by Solutions In Ink Limited.

Design by:
Quintessentially Design Ltd.
10 Carlisle Street
London W1D 3BR
Tel: +44 (0)207 758 3331
www.quintessentiallydesign.com

QUINTESSENTIALLY PERFUME

Introduction

Im very proud to introduce you to Quintessentially Publishings first fragrance title, Quintessentially Perfume. This book will take you on a journey of discovery revealing the stories, details and inspiration behind a selection of world class perfumers, their brands and the creations they offer us.

My fascination with perfume started very young and quickly evolved into a full blown and life-long love affair. I have been fortunate to work with a wide variety of perfumers and creators over the last decade and to gain understanding and knowledge that has inspired me in my consulting work and the creation of this book.

Quintessentially Publishings dedication to luxurious services and products continues today with the perfume brands and houses featured within these pages. Quintessentially Perfume presents a rich and varied cross section of collections that cover different styles and approaches; brands whose appeal has gained mainstream recognition, as well as those who have deliberately sought to retain their niche identity. They hail from all corners of the world: France whose southern town of Grasse has long been considered the world capital of perfume Italy, Germany, Switzerland, The Netherlands, Austria, the United States and of course the UK, which boasts some of the worlds most respected and influential perfume creators.

These featured perfume brands share an exceptional quality and beauty in their fragrances; a sense of innovation, a desire to honour the most precious raw materials and a ceaseless quest to captivate their followers at all times. Their works are inspired by emotions and tell moving, heartfelt stories. These pages showcase and applaud their merits and achievements; highlight their enduring relevance and reveal the role they play in the future of the perfume business.

In an age when instant response is the order of the day; when technology is omnipresent and we have witnessed the demise of face to face interaction, it seems vital to re-introduce some fundamentally human feeling into our everyday lives. Since the beginning of time our sense of smell has been key to our existence warning us of danger and leading us to food. In the past perfume has been used to hide less pleasant smells by evoking thoughts of freshness and cleanliness. But fragrance also has the ability to play with our emotions, to stir up thoughts of love and romance, to revive distant memories and significant moments. It seems apt to cherish this sense which has direct access to what makes us special: our heart and our brain. And who better to turn to than the worlds renowned experts and creators documented right here? I hope you enjoy this celebration as much as I have.

NATHALIE GRAINGER

Photo by Paul Raeside Foreword Fragrance is the perfect example of the whole - photo 2

Photo by Paul Raeside

Foreword

Fragrance is the perfect example of the whole being greater than the sum of the parts. Hopefully this book will create a chink in a door that encourages you to step further in to explore the breadth of its creativity, the groundbreaking scents, the beauty of the bottles, the incredible artwork, the erudite penmanship, the raw materials, the places where the materials are sourced. Each aspect of perfumery is vast; each hope and dream huge.

I was utterly delighted when Quintessentially asked me to be Creative Advisor for this book. We drew up a list of some of the houses which represent the diversity of perfumery, and in their own ways have shaped the olfactory universe. We gathered together journalists who have distinctive voices, a point of view and a thorough understanding of what makes us, the brand and a scent tick. The result is a fantastic, eclectic melting pot of modern perfumery. Each of the houses represented has a very specific story to tell; the one constant passion.

We wanted to create a book which looked at perfumery from different perspectives that of the perfumer, the house, the owner, and the journalist. We wanted to create a book which looked at the old and the new, the large and the small. In doing so we hoped to create a book like no other; that is as eclectic as the industry itself.

As the great perfumer Edmond Roudnitska said, The more we penetrate odours, the more they end up possessing us. They live within us and become an integral part of us....

We hope you like the book we have created.

Roja Dove Perfumer

ROJA DOVE

PERFUME THROUGH THE YEARS PASSIONATE PERFECTION Classic Definition Having - photo 3

PERFUME THROUGH THE YEARS

PASSIONATE PERFECTION

Classic: Definition Having lasting significance or worth; enduring.

There are two things which fundamentally determine whether a scent is likely to endure quality of creativity and quality of materials.

Many people presume synthetics are somehow inferior and cheap. This is wrong. They can be. In the same way natural materials can be too. Natural jasmine can cost as little as 150 per kilo whereas the finest comes from the town of Grasse in the south of France and costs over 30,000 per kilo. It requires more than five million flowers picked at dawn before the sun touches them to obtain the precious oil. This pales into insignificance when you look at orris, the dried rhizome of the iris plant, which takes six years to process and costs some three and a half times the price of gold. A naturally occurring synthetic in the form of an isolate within is called orrisone and costs an additional 50%. Whereas natural ambergris comes in at a whopping ten times the price of gold. With each new creation a blend of natural materials are sublimate with newly discovered synthetics. They give the perfumer new possibilities, often costing fortunes to develop and produce, before being offered to the very best to work with. If the perfumer lives up to expectation a new scent will be created which will redefine perfumery and set a new trend. Others will try to follow the style but unless they use equally fine ingredients what they produce will be mediocre by comparison. So with the finest materials to hand the perfumer then has to set about the creative process.

Close your eyes and try to imagine a colour you have never seen before; if that is too difficult, try to imagine a sound you have never heard before; or, for the would be perfumer in you, try to imagine a smell you have never smelt before. Difficult isnt it? But that is exactly what a great perfumer has to do when working on a truly new creation. Drawing on a palette of thousands of materials they have to discern, divide, and harness a myriad of ingredients a process which will often take many years. Without question this is one of the aspects that makes the story of scent such a fascinating and ever changing one.

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