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Mari Graña - Begoso cabin: a Pecos country retreat

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Mari Grana begins her account of an adventure that grew out of her desire to withdraw to the wild and that ends with a sense of homecoming and community: I saw over a rise in a meadow a little stone cabin far in the distance. The landscape of the canyon--the rocky pine-covered ridges, the long wide meadow with the escarpment of Rowe Mesa rising in the background--suddenly became the place I had dreamed about.Once she had purchased the abandoned sheepherders cabin on 240 remote acres of land in northern New Mexico, Grana began the work of making the cabin livable. With the help of local villagers, she plastered the mud walls, installed a cook-stove, and cleaned the rats out of her storehouse. She began to meet her neighbors and to learn the human history of the area. As she became familiar with the beauty, drama, and danger of the natural environment, she also learned about legendary local criminals and ancient land swindles. Writing out of her direct experience of this landscape and culture, Grana vividly describes a world where the village church comes alive on saints days and the spirit of Begoso Cabins builder, Natividad Ortiz, lingers still.

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title Begoso Cabin A Pecos Country Retreat author Graa Mari - photo 1

title:Begoso Cabin : A Pecos Country Retreat
author:Graa, Mari.
publisher:University of New Mexico
isbn10 | asin:0826320988
print isbn13:9780826320988
ebook isbn13:9780585200941
language:English
subjectHispanic Americans--Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Social life and customs, Graa, Mari,--1936- , Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Social life and customs, Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Biography.
publication date:1999
lcc:F802.P3G7 1999eb
ddc:305.868/07649
subject:Hispanic Americans--Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Social life and customs, Graa, Mari,--1936- , Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Social life and customs, Pecos River Region (N.M. and Tex.)--Biography.
Page iii
THE UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICO PRESS Albuquerque Page iv 1999 - photo 2
THE UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICO PRESS
Albuquerque
Page iv
1999 by Mari Graa
All rights reserved.
First edition
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Graa, Mari, 1936
Begoso cabin / Mari Graa ; drawings by Rose Mary Stearns. 1st ed. p. cm.
ISBN 0-8263-2098-8
Includes bibliographical references (p. 153). 1. Hispanic AmericansPecos River Region
(N.M. and Tex.)Social life and customs. 2. Graa, Mari, 1936- 3. Pecos River
Region (N.M. and Tex.)Social life and customs. 4. Pecos River Region (N.M. and
Tex.)Biography. I. Title.
F802.P3 G7 1999
305.868'07649dc21
Designed by: LiMiTeD Edition Book Design, Linda Mae Tratechaud
Page v
For Cor, vanquisher of vipers
Page vi
Tell me the landscape in which you live and I will tell you who you are Jos - photo 3
Picture 4
Tell me the landscape in which you live, and I will tell you who you are.
Jos
ORTEGA Y GASSET
Page vii
Begoso Cabin
Page 1
Page 2 1 Spring has not yet reached this high into the mountains of - photo 5
Page 2
1
Spring has not yet reached this high into the mountains of northern New Mexico, but the April sun is already here. The late afternoon air is warm as I walk the half mile along the dry wagon road that leads to the ranch gate. The road cuts through the still winter-dead meadow that stretches out beyond the gate, a mile or more east from my cabin. Anu, my brown Labrador pup, scampers along behind me, his nose to the dirt. Now and then he stops, head cocked, ears full forward, sniffs, then pounces on a fat black beetle unlucky enough to pick this moment to cross the road.
The late-season snow last weekend was so heavy that some of the branches on the juniper trees at the meadow edge are broken. But there is no sign of dampness now on the dusty red earth. Only in the thick dark sand, where one of my neighbor's cows broke through under the barbed wire fence where it straddles a side channel leading down to the dry bed of Begoso Creek and sank her imprint. Water has oozed up into the deep hoofmark, seeking a new surface, as if rising in a well. The sunlight is at a deep slant, already casting the toe of Rowe Mesa into shadow. When I reach the heavy chain-link gate, I turn and cross through the meadow along the fence posts and climb down the low bank to return to the cabin along the creek bottom.
Page 3
Multiple rows of tiny tracks are fresh in the dry sand, all headed upstream in parallel. I must have just missed the afternoon rabbit race. A larger set of tracks runs with them. These are probably coyote, but he was there before the rabbits; the wind has blown his trace to the edges of recognition. At the junction of a narrow arroyo that drains into the Begoso off the ridge to the south, a set of bear tracks enters the creek bed and, after a short distance, disappears up into the meadow. I walk always with an eye out for snakes, a vigilance that is the price of this solitude.
The clouded sky does not portend rain: tomorrow will be a beauty. Along my way an occasional young cottonwood reaches its bare arms to the afternoon sun. The creek banks are lined with a thick residue of broken branches woven with dead grass and glued with muda sign that not long before the Begoso has flooded two to three feet high with runoff brought down the canyon from the hundreds of gullies that drain the melting winter. It seems inconceivable that this even, sandy pathway on which I am walking leads a secret life as a torrent.
I follow the creek upstream to where it curves in close to the cabin. Anu is frisking and sniffing and chomping on sticks and occasionally collapsing onto his bottom to chew out from between his toes a cholla thorn that has blown into the creek bed from the meadow. Sometimes I need to help him; his four-month-old paws have not yet hardened to this rough land.
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The stone cabin faces east like a Navajo hogan. In the cold sunrise, a cacophony of coyotes celebrates matins on the south ridge that shoulders the vertical, orange, tree-dotted riffs of Rowe Mesa. In the distance, far beyond the meadow, the wall of Bernal Mesa
Page 4
rises into the morning above the Pecos River. The day will indeed be the beauty I saw coming on our walk last evening, but the sun is still too low for warmth. Anu sits in the open doorway, shivering with excitement at the yelping coming from the ridge. For Anu, every day of his new life presents wondrous revelations: some are exciting, like the coyote song he is listening to; some questionable, like the beetles in the road on our walk; some fearsome, like the bailing-wire handle to Andelecio's woodbox that clamped down on his neck one day last week when Andy and I were having a cup of coffee in his house in Ribera. The woodbox came out from behind the big iron stove tight around Anu's neck, he screaming his high-squeal puppy yelp at the monster that was holding him fast, creating indulgent entertainment for his audience.
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