Baker Mark - Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
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- Book:Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
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- Year:2013
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Dense primeval forests that leap straight from the pages of a Brothers Grimm story, with bears, wolves, lynx and boar, rugged mountain plateaus, well-marked trails and a network of cabins en route to keep you warm. Hiking is the best way to absorb this vibrant landscape ( ) of forests and rolling pastureland. There are also some terrific guides out there to lead you to the best that Romania has to offer; be it bear watching, birdwatching, homestays or hikes.
Whether youre looking for all-day tanning, all-night clubbing, or something a little more discrete and relaxing, youre sure to find some patch of sand to your liking along Bulgarias Black Sea coast. Away from the big, brash package resorts, youll come across charming seaside towns standing above smaller sandy coves, while the cities of Varna ( ) both have lengthy, less-crowded urban beaches. If its solitude you seek, head for the more remote beaches to the far north and south.
Set peacefully in a forested valley south of Sofia, Rila Monastery ( ) is Bulgarias biggest and most storied spiritual treasure; a former centre of learning and culture that kept national spirits up during the Ottoman occupation. A Unesco World Heritage site since 1983, the monastery grew from a 10th-century hermits hut, and has been rebuilt many times since. Its elaborate arches and precious frescoes and icons create a sublime and sumptuous atmosphere. Todays architectural incarnation of the monastery is considered a masterpiece of 19th-century Bulgarian Renaissance.
Tucked in the Carpathian foothills, the Unesco-listed painted monasteries of Bucovina proudly show off Romanias unique, Latin-flavoured Orthodox tradition. The churches are at one with their natural surroundings and the dizzying kaleidoscope of colours and intricate details in the frescoes bring to life everything from biblical stories to the 15th-century siege of Constantinople. The monasteries are the genius of Moldavian Prince Stephen the Great (tefan cel Mare), who was later canonised for his works.
DIANA MAYFIELD / GETTY IMAGES
After flowing some 2800km across the European continent, the mighty Danube River passes through a vast expanse of remote wetland in eastern Romania the delta before finally emptying into the Black Sea. Under international environmental protection, the region ( ) has developed into a sanctuary for fish and fowl of all stripe and colour. Birders, in particular, will thrill to the prospect of glimpsing species such as the roller, white-tailed eagle, great white egret, mute and whooper swans, falcon, and even a bee-eater or two.
The unquestioned highlight of Bulgarias central heartland, the grand old city of the tsars Bulgarias capital in medieval times offers a mix of antiquity, boutique bliss and nightlife. This university town, set high above the ribboning Yantra River, is popular with visitors both local and foreign, who marvel at the oddly endearing Sound and Light Show held nightly at the impressive Tsarevets Fortress ( ), a still-robust medieval citadel. Its also a great base for local hikes.
Bulgarias winemaking tradition dates to ancient Thracian times, and fine wine has been enjoyed here by everyone from Roman writers and French crusaders to former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, who used to order barrels of the local red from Melnik ( ) a village in the southwest of the country that remains a great place for sampling wines. Distinct wine-growing regions exist from the Danube to the Black Sea to the Thracian Plain, and numerous wineries offer tastings that are usually complemented by meats, cheeses and memorable rustic views.
Rising majestically over the rooftops of the Bulgarian capital, this beautiful Orthodox church ( ), dedicated to the memory of the 200,000 Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War (187778), took 30 years to construct, and was completed in 1912. The shimmering golden domes are visible several streets away, while the vast, candlelit interior is decorated with Italian marble, alabaster and fading murals. Daily services are led by robed, white-bearded priests, accompanied by chanting choirs.
Perched on a rocky bluff in Transylvania, in a mass of turrets and castellations, Bran Castle ( ) overlooks a desolate mountain pass swirling with mist and dense forest. Its spectral exterior is like a composite of every horror film youve ever seen, but dont expect to be scared. Inside, Bran is anything but spooky, with its white walls and geranium-filled courtyard. Legend has it Vlad the Impaler (the inspiration for Count Dracula) was briefly imprisoned here, and you can follow his footsteps through an Escheresque maze of courtyards and hidden passages.
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