Bernadette McDonald - Winter 8000
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Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy in Everest base camp, two days after having made the first winter ascent, 17 February 1980 (Bogdan Jankowski)
French alpinist lisabeth Revol, on her 2017 solo attempt to climb Manaslu in winter (lisabeth Revol)
Climbing on Manaslu, winter 198384 (Lech Korniszewski)
Polish climbers training for winter climbing in the Tatras (Alek Lwow Archive)
Marianne Chapuisat and Miguel Snchez on the summit of Cho Oyu on 10 February 1993 celebrate the first ascent of an 8,000er in winter by a woman. The photo was staged, as Marianne described: It was un clin doeil to Messner... I had one of his books with exactly that picture of the top of Cho Oyu with Kammerlander (5 May 1983). So, we tried to take the same foto with Everest and Lhotse behind. (Marianne Chapuisat Archive)
Anatoli Boukreev was a member of the 199798 winter expedition to Annapurna. He and Dimitri Sobolev were killed by an avalanche on Christmas Day. (Anatoli Boukreev Archive)
Marek Kowalczyk and Anna Okopiska in the Khumbu Icefall during the Polish 1974 autumn/winter expedition to Lhotse (Mirek Winiewski)
Simone Moro, nearing the summit of Shishapangma during the first winter ascent of the mountain in 2005 (Piotr Morawski)
Sub-zero tent scene during the Gasherbrum II winter expedition in 2011 (Cory Richards)
Cory Richards filming during the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Cory Richards)
Polish alpinist Tamara Sty, member of the international team attempting the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I in 2012 (Darek Zauski)
French alpinist lisabeth Revol at Nanga Parbat in winter 201213; she was attempting the unclimbed Mummery Route with Italian climber Daniele Nardi. (lisabeth Revol Archive)
Self-portrait of Adam Bielecki on the summit of Broad Peak, 5 March 2013; he was followed by Artur Maek, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski, all four making the first winter ascent of Broad Peak. (Adam Bielecki)
Porters carrying loads to K2 base camp for the Polish 201718 winter expedition (Darek Zauski)
PRAISE FOR WINTER 8000
McDonald shines a burning and intimate light into the souls of those who push themselves to the very edge of what is humanly possible. An instant mountaineering classic.
Jimmy Chin, co-director, Free Solo
Bernadette McDonald has done it again. She has chronicled the first winter ascents of the fourteen highest peaks on Earth by men and women who pushed the limits of mountaineering to glorious new extremes at a terrible cost. Rich in character and conflict, Winter 8000 never turns its back on the central question: Is it worth the risk?
David Roberts, award-winning author, Mountain of My Fear
Bernadette McDonalds clear-eyed portrayal of the men and women who embark on these ferocious adventures reveals their addiction to the cruel, rarefied beauty of the high Himalaya, and how intense ambition pushes them to risk destroying their lives and shattering the hearts of those who love them.
Maria Coffey, author, Where the Mountain Casts Its Shadow
With this book, Bernadette McDonald burnishes her already shining reputation as one of our great climbing historians. These accounts give us a fascinating portrayal of the few alpinists who are willing to endure winter ascents of the worlds highest mountains.
Steve Swenson, author, Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict
There are no stories more terrifying, dramatic, and tearful than the abundant struggles, frequent tragedies, and rare successes in winter Himalayan climbing.
Steve House, author, Beyond the Mountain
In Winter 8000, Bernadette McDonald demonstrates once more her essential contribution to mountaineering history. With vividness and keen insight, she evokes a world that few experience firsthand: the landscapes of black ice, thin air, and searing coldas well as the haunting inner realms of people drawn to the isolation of the highest peaks and the darkest months.
Katie Ives, Editor in Chief, Alpinist
WINTER 8000
CLIMBING THE WORLDS HIGHEST
MOUNTAINS IN THE COLDEST SEASON
BERNADETTE MCDONALD
LEGENDS AND LORE SERIES
MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS is dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.
1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134
800-553-4453, www.mountaineersbooks.org
Published simultaneously in Great Britain and North America in 2020 by Vertebrate Publishing, Sheffield, and Mountaineers Books, Seattle.
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