Romancing
the
Roads
Romancing
the
Roads
A Driving Divas Firsthand Guide
Volume II: West of the Mississippi
Gerry Hempel Davis
TAYLOR TRADE PUBLISHING
Lanham New York Boulder Toronto Plymouth, UK
Published by Taylor Trade Publishing
An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.
4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706
http://www.rlpgtrade.com
Estover Road, Plymouth PL6 7PY, United Kingdom
Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK
Copyright 2012 by Gerry Hempel Davis
All rights reserved . No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Davis, Gerry Hempel.
Romancing the roads : a driving divas firsthand guide, volume II : weat of the Mississippi / Gerry Hempel Davis.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-58979-639-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) ISBN 978-1-58979-640-9 (electronic)
1. Automobile travelWest (U.S.) 2. Women automobile driversWest (U.S.) 3. Women travelersWest (U.S.) 4. West (U.S.)Description and travel. I. Title.
GV1024.D39 2011
917.8dc23
2011023161
The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information SciencesPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.
Printed in the United States of America
Acknowledgments
A s with every book I write, I must first acknowledge my family: sons, Clint and Mark; daughters-in-law, Chris and Michelle; grandchildren, Olivia, Sawyer, Heyden, and Alex. I thank them for their enthusiasm, their queries, and for being there.
Thanks also to Rick Rinehart, publisher, who is receptive to my ideas even though some are loopy or truly not feasible. He is tactful and thoughtful. I thank him for believing in my literary pursuits. We have had some interesting times and have books to show for our endeavors.
To each personand there are a hundred or so from coast to coastwho helped me: Thank you. I could not have accumulated so much data without your support. I enjoyed each and every one of you and look forward to keeping in touch.
Thanks and appreciation go to Janice Braunstein, Flannery Scott, and Jennifer Kelland Fagan. These talented and dedicated females do so much in getting a book in hand.
Introduction
West of the Mississippi is very different than east of that same body of water. Not that one is betterindeed nobut different, yes. One must do the West at least once. You will not forget it.
I have either been to every place included in this volume or I inform the reader if I have not. Whether you are driving miles on the straightest road imaginable or standing on the rim of the Grand Canyon or buying a trinket at a truck stop or seeing something you had only read about, I promise you will not be disappointed, and you will definitely be enriched. There have been changes and closings, and I wish you all well.
Ultra hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, restaurants of every variety, shops (consignment too), and so much more are all included. Several national parks are described, but it is hard to put into words these totally awesome places. Awesome is an understatement; add unbelievable. Townsmedium, large, tiny, or just a dotare described, and there is a megalopolis or two.
Whether you actually take a drive or just see via the words the places I describe, I hope you enjoy. This book is not only for the road warrior but for the armchair traveler. Let us start our trip.... Repeat: Even if you cant go, you can know . Enjoy!
Louisiana
New Orleans
One hears so much about New Orleans and its famous French Quarter , but even before the devastating hurricanes of 2005, it didnt seem to me to be particularly well managed. A simple thing like cleaning up the streets would have been a step in the right direction, and following Katrina, it took far too long to clean up the debris. Everybody should have pitched in more vehemently and with more enthusiasm and determination. The French Quarter escaped a lot of Katrinas fury.
Soniat House
1133 Chartres St.
800-544-8808
www.soniathouse.com
Im happy to report this special property is alive and well. The Soniat House is actually in two partsone on each side of the streetdistinguished by green shutters and filigreed wrought iron accents. It was created over twenty years ago by combining three historic Creole townhouses. Owners Rodney and Frances Smith developed this fabulous property. Their good taste, creativity, and respect for old-world charm have made the Soniat House the very admirable and distinguished place that it is today.
It is easy to see how this charming property came to receive accolades from such disparate sources as Time magazine and Architectural Digest . The main building has two large green doors that open onto a courtyard that extends to the middle of the property. Slightly down and off to the side is a small room where you check in. Adjacent is a living room where you can sit and enjoy a drink from the honors bar.
My room (or suite, rather) was in the building across the street behind a locked gate and toward the middle of the back courtyard. From the moment I entered, I found the living room, bedroom, and bath pleasant, relaxing, and very attractive.
One cannot mention the Soniat House without mentioning (1) Calvin, who helped me with my bags and gave me general information about the Soniat as well as where to eat; (2) Jessie, a porter, and (3) Clarice the Cat.
Once settled, I headed out for a brief tour of the French Quarter, ending up at the French Market.
French Market
Decatur and Saint Peters streets
504-522-2621
www.frenchmarket.org
At the French Market, I saw a lot of people trying to sell the same things: beads upon beads, sunglasses, and stacks of trinkets. Somehow it must work, because no one looks to be starving.
Driving Diva Alert: You wont want to wear thin heels, or perhaps any heels, in the French Quarter. The streets arent cobblestone, theyre just plain uneven.
A Travel Serendipity: The gentleman who helped me with my bags at the hotel, Calvin, recommended a nearby restaurant for dinner. When I couldnt find it, I stopped a woman laden with several large boxes. I think she was delighted to have a reason to stop and put the boxes down. I asked her for directions, and as we continued to talk, we introduced ourselves. She, Carole Lovelace, is founder and president of Ladies Day Fund Inc . (www.ladiesdayfund.com), which gives financial aid to Delta Flight attendants who are seriously ill. It turns out that the boxes were full of flower pocketbooks that were to be sold at the next event to raise money for the charity. Right there, on the corner, she showed me one. I couldnt resist buying several! Our conversation then led to plans to get together the following morning, and we have kept in touch ever since. Ah, a serendipity of travel.
Verti Marte
1201 Royal St.
504-525-4767
www.vertimarte.com
This eatery at first looked like a questionable deli. But Calvin had recommended it, so I walked in and was greeted by a woman in casual attire. A few people were waiting in line in the back by the deli case. The place advertises Real Food for Real People at Real Prices. Yes! I ordered a sandwich called All That Jazz and a piece of pie to go.
The sandwich was huge. Back at the hotel, Calvin greeted me and asked if I had found the place. Indeed! I offered to give him half of my All That Jazz, which he eagerly accepted. Just so you know, it was probably one of the best sandwiches Ive ever had and a bargain, too! The most expensive item on the Verti Marte menu was $6.95 (then).
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