ADVANCE PRAISE FOR BORDER
This is a dazzling work of art and reportage, an iridescent book, glittering with stories of horror, comedy and actual magic. Kassabova is a brilliant traveller, an astonishing interviewer and writer with a near clairvoyant understanding of the real lives of men and women. Border is a gripping and revelatory story of the meeting of Asia and Europe in which every page seems to uncover historical and human secrets. Kassabova follows some fierce, sorcerous current which carries us all towards frontiers; there is an urgent and engrossing story here.
Horatio Clare
The literature of place is crying out for a talent as magical, brilliant, and original as Kapka Kassabovas. She writes with taut intelligence and poetic intensity, a shrewd and grown-up worldliness, and a rapt sense of all that isnt in the world, a combination that Ive been longing for this entire century. When Border arrived in my life, I felt as if Id been struck by lightning.
Pico Iyer
Kapka Kassabova writes with such energy and style that you feel she could visit the dullest place on earth and make it burst into life. But she has found somewhere extraordinary, the borderland between Greece and Bulgaria and Turkeyone of historys well-worn playgrounds. The individual stories she tellsby turns dramatic and poignant, tragic and comicare played out against a ceaseless round of brutal wars and shifting empires. Border is a brilliant and hugely satisfying book.
Philip Marsden
She has achieved something remarkable: a book about borders which makes the reader feel sumptuously free. An effect achieved by the way she moves between literary borders so gracefully: travelogue and existential drama; political history and poetry.
Peter Pomerantsev, author of Nothing Is True and Everything Is Possible: The Surreal Heart of the New Russia
Like the places it describes, this book holds you in a kind of mysterious electrical charge. It hums with the mystery, superstition, and terrible beauty of a place crushed between man-made borders but also defiantly announcing its sacred otherness. I cant stop thinking about it.
Frances Stonor Saunders
PRAISE FROM THE UK FOR BORDER
A marvelous book. Kassabova, a poet, writes lyrically and effectively about the astonishing natural beauty of much of the area. It shows more starkly than anything else I have read what the border did to the people who lived along it, and how its legacy endures.
The Guardian
With the deft touch of a historian, [Kassabova] connects the voices of those who have struggled to cross borders across the centuries. Kassabova is a poet, and her writing is beautifulmoving and witty by turns. In a world ever more divided, ever more threatened by Mexican walls, restrictive new passports and fear of the unknown, we need books like this.
Financial Times
[Kassabova] has the travel-writers core skill of acute sensitivity to her physical environment, together with a poets turn of phrase and a poets emotional rawness. Her journey takes place as the human flow from the Middle East was becoming a hemorrhage, and refugees appear in the narrative like phantoms. Kassabova is, above all, sensationally good at meeting extraordinary people, and that is surely the travels writers essential skill. Aromatic, lyrical, disturbingand very, very fine.
The Sunday Times
Kapka Kassabovas poignant, erudite and witty [ Border ] brings hidden history vividly to light. Communities with roots going back centuries were pulled up and dumped across borders that had once hardly mattered, into countries that they scarcely knew. It is a melancholy miracle, writes Ms. Kassabova, that odd ragged bits of this once-rich human tapestry survive. They could have no better chronicler.
The Economist
[Kassabovas] hunger and a fascination with this little known region has resulted in Border , one of those books that elevates travel writing to art. Mystery, of course, is at the heart of her book. The mystery of marginal points and marginal people.
The Herald
[A] thoughtful and impressive volume. Kassabova draws artfully on Slavic folklore, ancient customs such as fire walking, myths involving Uzbek-bred vipers and snippets of history. She has an old-fashioned gift for storytelling. Border brilliantly reveals the effects of a millennium of kaleidoscopic shifting.
The Observer
The poet and travel writers beautiful, tragic and universal new book may just be the most important you read in this year of Brexit. Kassabovas two-year odyssey lays bare the opposing injustices of empire and nationalism. A timely work, as nationalism raises its head once more across Europe. It forces us to consider the very concept of hard borders.
The Skinny
BORDER
ALSO BY KAPKA KASSABOVA
Villa Pacifica
Twelve Minutes of Love
Street Without a Name
Reconnaissance
BORDER
A Journey to the Edge of Europe
KAPKA KASSABOVA
GRAYWOLF PRESS
Copyright 2017 by Kapka Kassabova
Map copyright 2017 by Emily Faccini
First published in Great Britain in 2017 by Granta Books, London
Hymn to Hermes from The Homeric Hymns translated by Jules Cashford Jules Cashford, 2003. Penguin Classics, London, 2003.
Reproduced by permission of Penguin Books Ltd.
The author and Graywolf Press have provided this e-book to you for your personal use only. You may not make this e-book publicly available in any way. Copyright infringement is against the law. If you believe the copy of this e-book you are reading infringes on the authors copyright, please notify Graywolf Press at: us.macmillanusa.com/piracy.
This publication is made possible, in part, by the voters of Minnesota through a Minnesota State Arts Board Operating Support grant, thanks to a legislative appropriation from the arts and cultural heritage fund, and a grant from the Wells Fargo Foundation. Significant support has also been provided by Target, the McKnight Foundation, the Lannan Foundation, the Amazon Literary Partnership, and other generous contributions from foundations, corporations, and individuals. To these organizations and individuals we offer our heartfelt thanks.
Published by Graywolf Press
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Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401
All rights reserved.
www.graywolfpress.org
Published in the United States of America
ISBN 978-1-55597-786-3
Ebook ISBN 978-1-55597-978-2
2 4 6 8 9 7 5 3 1
First Graywolf Printing, 2017
Library of Congress Control Number: 2017930112
Cover design and art: Kimberly Glyder Design
DEDICATED TO THOSE WHO DIDNT MAKE IT ACROSS, THEN AND NOW
WITH A PLEA FOR THE PRESERVATION OF FORESTS
People forget we are only guests on this earth, that we come on to it naked and depart with empty hands.
Esma Redepova, Gypsy singer
PREFACE
This book tells the human story of the last border of Europe. It is where Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey converge and diverge, borders being what they are. It is also where something like Europe begins and something else ends which isnt quite Asia.
This is roughly the geography of it, but the map will only take you so far before you find yourself in the ancestral forest that teems with shadows and lives out of time. That is where I ended up going anyway. It may be that all borderlands hum with the frequencies of the unconscious; after all, borders are where the fabric is thin. However, this border region hums with an especially siren-like tone, and distinguishes itself for three reasons. One, because of unfinished business from the Cold War; two, because it is one of Europes great wildernesses; three, because it has been a continental confluence ever since there have been continents.