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Reynolds - Slow road to brownsville - a journey through the heart of the old west

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Reynolds Slow road to brownsville - a journey through the heart of the old west
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    Slow road to brownsville - a journey through the heart of the old west
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Immensely illuminating and enjoyable account of a road trip along Highway 83 ... Books like [Reynolds] prove that good travel writing remains not only very much alive, but essential.The Bookseller
In Slow Road to Brownsville, David Reynolds embarks on a road trip along Highway 83, a little-known two-lane highway built in 1926 that runs from Manitoba to the Mexican border at Brownsville, Texas. Growing up in a small town in England, Reynolds was enthralled by both the myth of the Wild West and the myth of the open road. This road trip is his exploration of the reality behind these myths as he makes his way from small town to small town, gas station to gas station, and motel to motel, hanging out in bars, drinking with the locals, and observing their sometimes-peculiar customs. Reynolds also wanted to see the country where the Sioux, the Cheyenne, the Comanches, the Apaches, and other native groups lived and died and to look at how their...

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I WANT TO GIVE A Toyota Priuss tank full of thanks to Nancy Flight, associate publisher at Greystone Books. Without her this book would be a limp replica of itself; she has boundless patience and a terrific editorial eye, both for the unnecessary and for the necessary that is somehow not-there-yet. Rob Sanders (rhymes with pandas), publisher of Greystone Books, also has terrific eyesand quite a nose and a dazzling smileand I have benefited from his excellent advice as this book was being planned and, as draft succeeded draft, from his ability to encourage while being critical. Editor Maureen Nicholsons advice and attention to detail have been invaluable. My agent, Tony Peake, has read and commented on the text more times than he should have had to; his opinions and enthusiasm have been invigorating. My wife, Penny Phillips, a professional editor, has read, commented, suggested, argued, corrected, and editedin many places, including the car, at all times of day and nightand she showed up in Denver, Colorado; I am a lucky man.

My thanks also to Claire Davies, Toby King, Judy Hevrdejs, Colleen MacMillan, Roy Williams, David Downing, Ben Yarde-Buller, John Smallwood, Charlie Fairey, Martha Reynolds, Grace Scott, Rose Reynolds, Andrew Jarman, and Freddie Broome. And to four Manitobans, Garry Harris, Wilbert Schoenrath, Douglas Gourlay, and Dale Wiebach, who took time to tell me all they could about the road.

Stuart Harris, who celebrated his one hundredth birthday in March this year, has been the source of many good things. In this instance, he showed me the road and sent me down it. I shall always be grateful.

Finally, my thanks to everyone I met on, or close to, Highway 83.

SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY

THE DATE GIVEN IS THE DATE OF FIRST PUBLICATION.

Stephen E. Ambrose, Undaunted Courage: Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson, and the Opening of the American West (1996)

Paul Benson (Ed.), Great Stories of the Wild West (1957)

R.B. Bernstein, Thomas Jefferson (2003)

Mike Blakely, Comanche Dawn (1998)

Bobby Bridger, Buffalo Bill and Sitting Bull: Inventing the Wild West (2002)

Hugh Brogan, The Penguin History of the USA (second edition, 1999)

Dee Brown, Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee: An Indian History of the American West (1971)

Bill Bryson, The Lost Continent: Travels in Small-Town America (1989)

Bill Bryson, Made in America (1994)

Jenni Calder, There Must Be a Lone Ranger: The Myth and Reality of the American Wild West (1974)

Truman Capote, In Cold Blood (1966)

Willa Cather, O Pioneers! (1913)

Cowboy Picture Library, Kit Carson and the Man Who Hated Redskins (ca. 1957), collected in High Noon, Wild West Picture Library Collection (2008)

Gene Dattel, Cotton and Race in the Making of America: The Human Costs of Economic Power (2009)

Christopher Davis, North American Indian (1969)

Simone de Beauvoir, LAmrique au jour le jour (1954), trans. Carol Cosman as America Day by Day (1998)

Molly des Baillets, Cultural Pluralism and Social Capital in Garden City, Kansas (2008)

Barbara Ehrenreich, Nickel and Dimed: On (Not) Getting By in America (2001)

Emily Ferguson, Janey Canuck in the West (1910)

Thomas Frank, Whats the Matter with Kansas? (2004)

Ian Frazier, Great Plains (1989)

Stuart Harris, Autobiography (unpublished)

Stuart Harris, Durban (1986)

William Least Heat-Moon, Blue Highways (1983)

Ted Hustead, Wall and Water, in Guideposts (1982)

Clay S. Jenkinson, A Lewis and Clark Chapbook: Lewis and Clark in North Dakota (2002)

Jamie Jensen, Road Trip USA: Cross-Country Adventures on Americas Two-Lane Highways (fifth edition, 2009)

Jack Kerouac, On the Road (1957)

David Lavender, The Penguin Book of the American West (1969)

Claude Lvi-Strauss, Le cru et le cuit (1964), trans. John and Doreen Weightman as The Raw and the Cooked (1969)

Tom Lewis, Divided Highways: Building the Interstate Highways, Transforming American Life (1997)

Barry Lopez, The American Geographies, Orion (1989), collected in About This Life: Journeys on the Threshold of Memory (1998)

Elgin Ostrum, Memories of the Good Old Days (unpublished)

George Packer, The Unwinding: An Inner History of the New America (2013)

Michael Pollan, Power Steer, The New York Times Magazine (2002)

Annie Proulx, That Old Ace in the Hole (2002)

Jonathan Raban, Bad Land: An American Romance (1996)

Mari Sandoz, Cheyenne Autumn (1953)

Simon Schama, The American Future: A History from the Founding Fathers to Barack Obama (2008)

Eric Schlosser, Fast Food Nation (2001)

Brock V. Silversides, Prairie Sentinel: The Story of the Canadian Grain Elevator (1997)

John Steinbeck, The Grapes of Wrath (1939)

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Slow road to brownsville - a journey through the heart of the old west - image 1
THAT ROAD GOES TO MEXICO

I LEARNED ABOUT THE ROAD in 2002, during my second visit to Swan River. I was there in May, when the land warms up after the great freeze that lasts five months. I had driven with Stuart to the west end of Main Street. We were planning to eat at the Chinese caf, but it was shut. As I turned the car round, Stuart flipped his thumb over his shoulder and said something I didnt catchwhich was strange because he usually draws out his words in a soft, deep lilt which is easy on the ear and easy to understand.

It sounded as if he had said, That road goes to Mexico.

But he couldnt have; we were thousands of miles from Mexico, in the remote north of Canada. I replayed the sound of his words in my mind. Did you say, That road goes to Mexico?

Sure. You bet. It does. I been down there. To Texas. And Arizona. It goes on down to the Mexican border.

Really? I was driving east again. We were well past the road now. I had barely noticed it: a blur of gray tarmac, wide enough for perhaps two cars.

Yep. Highway 83. Goes from here to Brownsville, Texas, right down there in the south, as far as you can go in the USA . Drive across a bridge and youre in Mexico.

You mean it starts hereHighway 83?

Yep.

Why?

I dont know. He raised a hand. Wouldve been Indian trails at first. They were everywherefrom here, north of here, right down through the prairies and into Mexico.

Why does it start here? Theres a road north from here, isnt there? I knew there was. It went to places even farther north, places I hadnt been to, with exotic nameslike Le Pas and Flin Flon.

Yep. You just carry on past Mr. Ribs, past the Westwood Inn, and you can drive north for two hundred milesmore if you want to. But thats not Highway 83. Thats Highway 10. Its different. Comes from southeast, from Brandon. Highway 83 runs due south from here, almost straight south all the way to Laredo, which is on the Rio Grande, which is the border with Mexico. He cleared his throat and tugged at the peak of his baseball cap. Then it goes on, southeast along the Rio Grande, to Brownsville, which is near the sea, the Gulf of Mexico.

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