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Ian Purkayastha - Truffle Boy: My Unexpected Journey Through the Exotic Food Underground

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Truffle Boy: My Unexpected Journey Through the Exotic Food Underground: summary, description and annotation

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In the vein of Blood, Bones & Butter and Kitchen Confidential, the unexpected, thoroughly engaging journey of a young misfit who, as a purveyor of truffles and other highly-desired specialty foods, built a devoted clientele of New Yorks chicest chefs and restaurateurs. A self-described oddball kid from Arkansas, Ian Purkayastha found his true calling when at age 15 he learned to forage mushrooms and tasted his first truffle. An instant passion for the delicacy sparked an improbable yet remarkable journey to New York to become the leading truffle importer in America in the dynamic and sometimes shady world of the exotic food trade. Today, at age 22, Ian has built a multi-million dollar specialty foods company with clients as renowned as Jean-Georges Vongerichten and David Chang. As farm-to-table becomes forest-to-table, Truffle Boy provides a unique view into the world of luxury sourcing, while delivering a coming of age story that will charm foodies and business readers alike.

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Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture.

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Copyright 2016 by Ian Purkayastha

Jacket design by Amanda Kain.

Jacket photograph copyright Kristin Gladney for Wieden + Kennedy.

Cover copyright 2016 by Hachette Book Group, Inc.

Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture.

The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book without permission is a theft of the authors intellectual property. If you would like permission to use material from the book (other than for review purposes), please contact permissions@hbgusa.com. Thank you for your support of the authors rights.

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First ebook edition: September 2016

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ISBN 978-0-316-38397-4

E3-20160819-JV-PC

To Grandpa for bringing me into the world of good eating and for Jane, who showed me that anything is possible.

T he names of most of the people and companies in this account have been changed, but Truffle Boy is otherwise a true account of my life as a truffle dealer.

KINGDOM

Fungi

DIVISION

Ascomycota

SUBPHYLUM

Pezizomycotina

CLASS

Pezizomycetes

ORDER

Pezizales

FAMILY

Tuberaceae

GENUS

Tuber

Some Edible Truffle Species

Tuber magnatum

European winter white truffle

Tuber melanosporum

European winter black truffle

Tuber aestivum

Summer truffle

Tuber uncinatum

Burgundy truffle

(now considered synonymous with T. aestivum)

Tuber macrosporum

Smooth black truffle

Tuber oregonense and T. gibbosum

Oregon white truffle

Other Edible Fungi

Morchella esculenta

Blond morel

Cantharellus cibarius

Golden chanterelle

Tricholoma matsutake

Matsutake or pine mushroom

Hydnum repandum

Hedgehog mushroom

Boletus edulis

Porcini, king bolete, or cpe

Grifola frondosa

Maitake or hen-of-the-woods

Craterellus fallax and C. cornucopioides

Black trumpet

Lactarius fragilis, L. camphoratus, and L. rubidus

Candy cap

Agaricus bisporus

Button mushroom and cremini (immature), portobello (mature)

Some Psychoactive Fungi

Psilocybin spp.

Magic mushrooms

Gymnopilus junonius

Laughing gym

Amanita muscaria

Fly agaric

A Deadly Poisonous Fungus

Amanita phalloides

Death cap

Other Edible Wild Plants

Angelica

Beach plum

Burdock

Cattail

Chickweed

Daylily

Desert parsley root

Elderflower, elderberry

Fiddlehead

Ginseng

Hemlock tip

Huckleberry

Ice plant

Japanese knotweed

Lambs-quarter

Milkweed bud

Mugwort

Oyster leaf

Pawpaw

Pin cherry

Pine bud

Purslane

Queen Annes lace (wild carrot)

Ramps

Salad burnet

Sassafras

Spicebush berry

Stinging nettle

Sumac

Watercress

Wild asparagus

Wild fennel

Wild onion

Wood sorrel (oxalis)

T here is an implicit presumptuousness to the writing of memoirs, especially when the person penning the tale has lived to the ripe old age of twenty-three.

If the confluence of his age and ambition is troubling to you, know that it was to me, too: when Ian first came through the doors of Momofuku Ko, I brushed him off. The food world is full of snake oil salesmen and I thought that baby-faced Ian was just a newer model. No oneno single group of people that I can generalize aboutis full of more bullshit than luxury food traffickers.

The only way for Ian to prove his worth in this industry was through word-of-mouth. Like most people, when chefs see each other, we gripe about the weather and business, and we relish tales of new scams making their way around town. Tales of the barely legal truffle salesman turned from gossip into something even more rare: whispers about the quality of his product, the reliability of his prices, the fact that he showed up when he was supposed to.

Ian has the savvy to make it in this business; hes hard as nails when he needs to be and he knows how and why to make a tough decision. But its his integrity that will serve him the best, and the quality that has earned him my trust. Its so easy to take short cuts. Integrity is the thing that keeps you from doing that and is something Ive learned through this book that he was raised with, something indivisible from who he is.

So once I knew I could trust him, I got to know him. And you know what? Hes a dork. Huge dork. A dork in the best way possible: He has a true, deep expertise in everything he sellscaviar, truffles, fish. He knows the stories that we need to sell the stuff tableside; he knows the facts of the production that help us decide whats right for our restaurants and our customers. Hes never not had an answer for me and hes never been wrong when Ive double-checked him after he left the restaurant. Hes like Luxury Foods Google but with lungs and a tousle of black hair.

I am enamored with RegalisI like that instead of the tech path, Ian is building a company the old way, through relationships and his personal guarantee, by selling real, treasured items, not some app were all gonna forget by next summer.

I think he can disrupt the entire luxury foods market. I think hes gonna go far. But regardless of the success that I am sure will come his way, I will never not call him Truffle Boy.

David Chang, 2016

Tuber aestivum
Summer Truffle

NEWARK, JULY 2010

T welve miles out from the Empire State Building, as you rattle across the overpass from the New Jersey Turnpike toward Newark Airport, you can look left and see a double-height warehouse with letters on its facade that spell out UNITED CARGO . The U fell off once, and every time I saw NITED CARGO , I thought about the truth of my industry, the food business. Its

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