GEOFF HILL is the features and travel editor of the News Letter in Belfast, one of the worlds oldest newspapers. He has either won or been shortlisted for a UK Travel Writer of the Year award eight times. He is also a former Irish Travel Writer of the Year and a former Mexican Government European Travel Writer of the Year, although hes still trying to work out exactly what that means. He writes about travel regularly for the Daily Telegraph and the Independent on Sunday. He writes for the motoring section of the Irish Times and is an editor for Fodors, the American guidebook series. He has also won one UK and three Northern Ireland Feature Writer of the Year awards, and two UK newspaper design awards.
He lives in Belfast with his wife Cate, a cat called Kitten, a hammock and the ghost of a flatulent Great Dane. His hobbies are volleyball, flying, motorbikes, skiing, and thinking too much.
PRAISE FOR GEOFF HILLS TRAVEL WRITING
Geoff Hill has an outstanding writing talent with a wicked sense of fun. For all the hilarious observations and polished one-liners, there is also thoughtful, informative travelogue. Brilliant writing, genuinely and originally funny, and a supremely entertaining read.
Martyn Lewis, broadcaster
Geoff Hill has travel writing genius in his very soul The funniest travel writer in our business.
Julie Shmueli and David Rosenberg,
Travelex UK Travel Writing Awards
Good travel writers are in short supply, great travel writers are prizes Geoff is one of the most talented travel writers ever to cross my path.
Melissa Shales, chairperson, British Guild of Travel Writers
Geoffs dad. Bob, on a hand-change 1929 Rudge 500 before the 1950 Cookstown 100
WAY TO GO
Two of the Worlds Great
Motorcycle Journeys
GEOFF HILL
First published in 2005
This edition published in 2012 by
Blackstaff Press
4c Heron Wharf, Sydenham Business Park
Belfast, BT3 9LE
with the assistance of
The Arts Council of Northern Ireland
Text, Geoff Hill, 2005
Photographs, Geoff Hill, 2005
Cover illustration, Gavin Livingston, 2005
All rights reserved
Geoff Hill has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.
Cover design by Dunbar Design
Produced by Blackstaff Press
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
PRINT ISBN 978-0-85640-765-9
EPUB ISBN 978-0-85640-064-3
MOBI ISBN 978-0-85640-065-0
www.blackstaffpress.com
www.blackstaffpress.com/eBooks
Preface
I n Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance Robert Pirsig divides people into classicists and romantics. When a classicist looks at a motorcycle, he sees a collection of nuts and bolts. But Im a romantic. When I look at one, I think of oil and leather, the bright tinkle of a spanner on concrete in my dads old garage, the open road, the wind in my hair, the smell of daisy meadows and my mothers perfume when she was young.
To me, it seemed the most natural thing in the world, when I saw a Royal Enfield outside a pub in Belfast and found out they were still being made in India, to imagine riding one back from Delhi; and when I thought of a Harley, to wonder what it would be like to head off down Route 66, all the way from Chicago to LA.
You see, in my dreams, I am still a boy on a bike. Because when I was a boy, every day was an adventure and a new beginning. Because when we are children, we are reborn every morning, but when we grow older, a little of us dies every night: killed by what ifs and if onlys, by mortgages and bills, dry rot and rising damp. When we travel, though, we are children again. And when we travel by motorcycle, we have nothing to think of when we wake but checking out of a motel, throwing a few belongings into our panniers and riding off down the road, unencumbered by regrets and concerns. On a motorcycle, every day is an adventure and a new beginning.
On a motorcycle, I am still a boy on a bike.
GEOFF HILL
FEBRUARY 2005
Acknowledgements
My thanks to the following:
The Nambarrie Run
Delhi to Belfast on an Enfield
Patrick Minne, without whom I would be still be in Delhi trying to work out how to adjust the clutch. Joris Minne for naively asking Nambarrie to give us money to ride two motorbikes back from India. Rosena McKeown and Brian Davis at Nambarrie for even more naively saying yes. Ian Mackinnon, our man in Delhi, for organising everything at that end, in a country where organisation is banned by law. Nanna for preparing the Enfields so beautifully. Steve Pang at Psion for providing a Series 5 palmtop. Luise Smith and Jackie Stephenson, the worlds finest copytakers, whose voices were the sound of home for me every evening across the long miles. Geoff Saltmarsh at Saltmarsh PR for persuading KLM to fly us from Belfast to Delhi. Raj Desai at Jet Airways for getting us from Delhi to Calcutta and back. Brian McKibbin for cajoling SeaCat into providing the transport across the wet bits. Philip Rees at Visa Express in London for solving several impossible visa problems.
Miller Miles
Route 66 on a Harley
Rosemary Hamilton at Future Image, Brian Houston at Bass and Mike Hennick at Miller for giving me even more money, not to mention the leather jacket. David James and the guys at Harley-Davidson for lending me a Road King for a month. Jayne Innis at Cellet Travel Services for organising accommodation and tours at several stops.
My thanks also to Geoff Martin, my editor during both trips, for not noticing that I was gone from the office for months at a time. Gavin Livingstone, the artist who created the brilliant Nambarrie Run and Miller Miles logos. Hilary Bell, my editor at Blackstaff, for getting me to stick to the point occasionally. My current editor, Austin Hunter, for rather foolishly agreeing to give me three months out of the office for my next adventure, Chile to Alaska by motorbike on the Pan-American Highway in spring 2006.
And, most of all, to Cate, for her love and support and for understanding that sanity is not the most important thing in a husband.
Geoff and Patrick Minne with Nanna.
Delhis finest motorcycle dealer, and their brand new Enfields at the start of the Nambarrie Run from Delhi to Belfast
Part I
The Nambarrie Run
Delhi to Belfast on an Enfield
Kitting Out
I t all began on Christmas Day 1997. I was happily proceeding in my ancient Porsche 924 around a roundabout in a clockwise fashion on my way to dinner with friends, and the next minute not proceeding at all. So if anyone ever tells you that Porsches dont break down, you can tell them different.
Now, I know that some purists say that a 924 was developed jointly with Audi and isnt a proper Porsche. But stuff them, I say. Its got the badge on the front, and thats all that matters, even if it does make me worry sometimes that, deep down, Im a really shallow person. I know, too, that Porsche drivers are supposed to have huge egos and tiny dongles, but I can assure you that I dont. In fact, Im very proud of having no ego at all. As for my dongles, they are a matter which I am not prepared to discuss in this book, since you may well be reading it before the nine oclock watershed.
Next page