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Geoff Hill - The Road to Gobblers Knob: From Chile to Alaska on a Motorbike

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Geoff Hill The Road to Gobblers Knob: From Chile to Alaska on a Motorbike
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The Road to Gobblers Knob: From Chile to Alaska on a Motorbike: summary, description and annotation

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At 16,000 miles, it was the worlds longest road: a road on which travellers faced being kidnapped and murdered by Colombian drug barons, buried under Peruvian avalanches, drowned by the Guatemalan rainy season, fleeced by eight-year-old Ecuadorian border touts, driven mad by blackflies in the Yukon, eaten by Alaskan grizzlies and, worst of all, limited to a glass of Chardonnay a day in California. The Pan-American Highway. It sounded brilliant. The next day, I went out to buy every book that I could find on it. And found that there werent any. Then its about time I wrote one, I thought.

Biker Geoff Hill heads off into the sunset, this time aboard a trusty Triumph. Join him as he faces the perils and pitfalls of the Pan-American Highway, from Chile to Alaska, via Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, El Salvador, Mexico and the Yukon.

If you enjoyed this book, you might also enjoy Geoff Hills other motorbike adventure books: Way to Go: Delhi to Belfast on a Royal Enfield and Route 66 on a Harley Davidson; Oz: Around Australia on a Triumph; and In Clancys Boots: The Greatest Ever Round-the-World Motorbike Adventure.

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Imprint Information The photographs for chapters 1 5 and 7 are copyright - photo 1

Imprint Information


The photographs for chapters 1, 5 and 7 are copyright Geoff Hill; the photograph for chapter 2 is copyright Blackstaff Press; the photograph for chapter 4 is copyright Gavan Caldwell; the photograph for chapter 6 is copyright RKO/The Kobal Collection; the photographs for chapters 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 are copyright Clifford Paterson.

It has not been possible to trace the copyright holder of the photograph for chapter 3.

First published in 2007 by Blackstaff Press

This edition published 2011 by

Blackstaff Press

4c Heron Wharf, Sydenham Business Park

Belfast, BT3 9LE

Text Geoff Hill 2007 For picture acknowledgements see above All rights - photo 2

Text, Geoff Hill, 2007

For picture acknowledgements, see above.


All rights reserved

Geoff Hill has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work.


Cover Illustration by Gavin Livingston

Cover Design by Dunbar Design

Produced by Blackstaff Press


A cip catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

EPUB ISBN 978-0-85640-896-0

MOBI ISBN 978-0-85640-897-7


www.blackstaffpress.com

Praise for Geoff Hills Travel Writing


Geoff Hill has an outstanding writing talent with a wicked sense of fun. For all the hilarious observations and polished one-liners, there is also thoughtful, informative travelogue. Brilliant writing, genuinely and originally funny, and a supremely entertaining read.

MARTYN LEWIS, broadcaster

Geoff Hill has travel writing genius in his very soul The funniest travel writer in our business.

JULIE SHMUELI and DAVID ROSENBERG,

Travelex UK Travel Writing Awards

Good travel writers are in short supply, great travel writers are prizes Geoff is one of the most talented travel writers ever to cross my path.

MELISSA SHALES, Chairperson, British Guild of Travel Writers

About Geoff Hill


GEOFF HILL writes a popular column in the Sunday Times and is the author of Way to Go: Two of the Worlds Great Motorcycle Journeys, The Road To Gobblers Knob: From Chile to Alaska on a Motorbike and Anyway, Where Was I? Geoff Hills Alternative A to Z of the World ; and co-author of Oz: Around Australia on a Triumph with fellow journalist Colin OCarroll. He has either won or been shortlisted for a UK Travel Writer of the Year award nine times and is a former European Travel Writer of the Year. He has written about travel for the I rish Times, Daily Telegraph and the Independent on Sunday.

Dedication


For Catherine, always

Safety last!


I confess to a sigh of regret, not at a lost opportunity, but at something inevitably lost, something which, to me, seems precious the idealism, the directness, the simplicity of youth. I lived with a secret image of pefection in my heart. My hope, my belief in myself and in life, was boundless, vague and vast as a cloud horizon before sunrise. The prosaic and worldly things money, position, self-interest out of which men build their little sand-castles of vanity and power, meant nothing. They slipped by, ignored. Everything you did should be the best possible. You should live gloriously, generously, dangerously. Safety last!

Cecil Lewis , Sagittarius Rising


The first step in the birth of any great nation is the development of its roads, their decay the first sign of disintegration.

Robert Edison Fulton Jnr , One Man Caravan

1


At the age of forty-eight and a half precisely, I decided to retire at the height of my fame.

Only to find that I hadnt reached it.

Faced with such a shock, I did the only thing possible, and had a mid-life crisis.

In any case, it was about time, and all the signs were there. I was in the middle of my life, for a start. Unless I got knocked down by a bus, of course. Then, buses being what they are, immediately knocked down by another one.

I had also started sighing deeply when I drove past my old university, or picked up a photograph of myself as an international volleyball player, a disturbingly distant quarter of a century ago. Not to mention flicking through sports car magazines in Sainsburys and attempting to do thirty press-ups in the bathroom after a few beers on a Saturday night.

Are you all right dear You look a little flushed my wife Cate would say as I - photo 3


Are you all right, dear? You look a little flushed, my wife Cate would say as I reappeared in the living room and sank onto the sofa.

Bear in the bathroom, love. I had to wrestle the machine gun off him before I could throw him down the stairs.

Of course. Now whats really the matter?

Oh, I dont know. Im just overcome by a feeling these days that Ive made a complete failure of my life.

As in international sportsman and winner of so many writing awards weve had to get the mantelpiece reinforced twice? That sort of failure?

I know, I know. I just have this nagging feeling that I could have done better.

Listen, count your blessings, and stop struggling so much. Weve had the happiest of years, and youre just having a mid-life crisis.

See? I thought so.

Now, men deal with a mid-life crisis in different ways. Some die, like Jackson, one of my best mates from university, perishing on the eve of his fiftieth birthday, his heart giving up the struggle in much the same way as the complex hydro-pneumatic suspension systems of the ancient Citrons he had loved in life.

I could have done the same, but Ive always had an unnatural fear of death, if only because it stops you finding out what happens next.

I could have bought a red sports car, but it would have clashed with my nose.

So I did what Cate said, and counted my blessings. And she was right. We had just had the happiest year imaginable. After five years together, wed got married in September, followed by a glorious honeymoon in Slovenia, where Id rowed her across Lake Bled to the wooded island there, carried her up the ninety-nine steps to the little white church, as Slovenian grooms traditionally do with their brides, then rung the bell three times and wished for a happy and successful life together. After Slovenia, thered been Venice, then home on the Orient-Express, one of the great experiences of an adult life, particularly as Id blagged my way into not paying for it by selling our honeymoon rights to Wedding Journal magazine for a fiver. Which I could ill afford.

In work, Cates PhD and research project was going well, and Id been named Northern Ireland feature writer of the year and finished second in the uk travel writer of the year award in the Over 6 6 section.

Oh well, I said, at least Im a bloody good travel writer.

Two days after Christmas, I went back to work as the features and travel editor of the paper I worked for and sat down at my desk. It was ten in the morning, and mid-life crisis or not, I was the happiest man in the world.

Little did I know that by two minutes past, I would be the unhappiest.

2


What do you mean, you want to take me off travel? I asked the editor in disbelief.

Its not that I want to take you off travel. Its just that were launching a new metro edition to increase our circulation in Belfast, and I want you to spearhead it with a page every day, which means you wont have time for travel.

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