T ABLE OF C ONTENTS
SHIVAS BEACH DAWN
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
A milky sunrise on a deserted beach, watching a miracle.
BOYS STUFE
N ATURAL H ISTORY M USEUM , L ONDON
In the Zetland Arms pub near the museum smelling of stale beer and a carpet so threadworn that I sense perhaps Wallace spilled ale on it a hundred and fifty years ago.
SHIVAS BEACH MID-MORNING
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Too hot to walk, too hot to think, too hot to sleep.
TEARS FOR TOSCA
B ATANG A I N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
On the border of Indonesia, a hundred miles upriver from where Wallace shot seventeen orangutans, scrambling through secondary forest to catch a glimpse of the ones that remain.
I WANT OT BE ALONE
B ATANG A I N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
Far upriver from the nearest habitation, sliding down waterfalls.
DIVERS DO IT DEEPER, THEN DIE
M EROR , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Where the Chinese Indonesians get rich and Indigenous Indonesians are shark food.
KILL MOSQUITOES TILL THEYRE DEAD
G UNUNG L EDANG , M ALAYSIA
Sleeping on a ledge next to one of the worlds most beautiful waterfalls amidst some of the worlds most senseless litter.
HAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY ALFRED
J IRLAI , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Is a mans most valuable possession his bow and arrow or a butterfly or a memory or simply time? What do you give a guy who lived a hundred and fifty years ago?
TRUST ME
M INYAMBOU , A RFAK M OUNTAINS , I RIAN J AYA , I NDONESIA
In a mountain village where birds are descended from paradise and where men seek to follow suit.
SHIVAS BEACH LATE AFTERNOON
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Just before rose-colored fireworks.
AN INORDINATE FONDNESS FOR BEETLES
G UNUNG M ULU N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
Why are there so many critters? And why do some folks spend their lives collecting and naming them? Could this be the fast track to immortality?
THE ORGASMIC BUTTERFLY
S ANUR , B ALI , I NDONESIA
Drinking in a quiet bar, watching the worlds greatest dragueur, a Balinese guy with a ponytail and a great line, convince two Australian nurses that their lives will be worthless unless they make love with him.
THE LAST PERKENIER
B ANDA , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
How could one now ignored spice have generated such mayhem?
UP AGAINST THE WALL, COLONALISTS
A RU I SLANDS , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
Can men with bows and arrows control their destiny?
A RENOIR IN THE ATTIC
B UKIT T IMAH N ATURE R ESERVE , S INGAPORE
New species in urban Singapore? Who would have thought?
SHAVAS BEACH NIGHT
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
With stars that make me wish I was a poet.
THE MAN WITH PINS IN HIS LUNGS
K OTAMOBAGU , NORTHERN S ULAWESI , I NDONESIA
After dinner, chatting with a man who speaks with Moses.
SCUBA DIVING FROM REALM TO REALM
O N THE O CEAN F LOOR , K OMODO N ATIONAL P ARK , I NDONESIA
Shallow seas gave Alfred Russel Wallace key ideas about the movement of people and animals.
SERENDIPITY AND DRAGONFLIES
S ANGBURNIH , B ALI , I NDONESIA
In a simple country temple, overlooking the shore where Wallace made landfall.
IN SEARCH OF THE (NOT QUITE) LOST TRIBE OF GIANT WHITE CANNIBALS
B OBALE , OFF THE COAST OF H ALMAHERA , I NDONESIA
Swatting mosquitoes in a neat, stifling village, waiting for the wind to calm down so we can take a boat to look for crypto-Europeans.
HELPING OUR POOR, BROWN NAKED COUSING
G UNUNG M ULU N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
In a crude shelter in the rainforest, near a Penan camp.
COME IN RUBBER DUCK
M OROWALI , S ULAWESI , I NDONESIA
In a village where children are gleefully shouting Rubber Duck, Rubber Duck!
SHAVAS BEACH SOMEWHERE IN THE WORLD THE SUN IN SHINING
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Is it really darkest before the dawn?
WOMEN ON TOP
S ANGBURNIH , B ALI , I NDONESIA
Dancing the Balinese version of the hula in front of several hundred very amused villagers with a girl whose goal in life is to make me look like a rut-obsessed goat.
TEN PAGES THAT CHANGED THE WORLD
T ERNATE , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
Wallaces eureka moment, triggered by malarial fever, challenged both his ego and the belief systems of many people.
SHAVAS BEACH BETWEEN LATE AND LATER
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Midnight? Three a.m.? Where have all the stars gone?
N OT EVERYTHING THAT CAN BE COUNTED COUNTS, AND NOT EVERYTHING THAT COUNTS CAN BE COUNTED .
T HE 19 TH CENTURY B RITISH BIOCHEMIST J. B. S. H ALDANE, AN ARDENT M ARXIST WHO QUIT E NGLAND FOR I NDIA , WAS ONCE APPROACHED BY A DISTINGUISHED THEOLOGIAN TO ASK WHAT INFERENCES ONE COULD DRAW ABOUT THE NATURE OF THE C REATOR FROM THE STUDY OF H IS C REATION . H ALDANE REPLIED, WITH HIS USUAL TERSENESS, THAT G OD HAS AN INORDINATE FONDNESS FOR BEETLES .
Attribution uncertain. The quote (with reversed parallel phrases) is often attributed to Albert Einstein; some sources say it was written on a sign in his Princeton office, but it does not appear in his published writing. William Bruce Cameron wrote these well-known words, eight years after Einsteins death, in his 1963 textbook Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking.