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Paul Sochaczewski - An Inordinate Fondness for Beetles

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Part travelogue, part biography, An Inordinate Fondness for Beetles charts the discoveries of famous naturalist and explorer Alfred Russel Wallace. Born in 1823, Wallace devoted much time to fieldwork, first in the Amazon then in Asia. During his travels he identified what is known as the Wallace Line, which divides the flora and fauna of Asia from that which is a combination of both Australian and Asian origin. He is perhaps most famous for independently developing the theory of evolution due to natural selection.

Structured as conversations around the campfire, based on common travel in the Malay archipelago, An Inordinate Fondness for Beetles skillfully interweaves tales of Wallaces travels and discoveries in with Paul Sochaczewskis own observations of the region. Offering unique insights into the magic of Southeast Asia, this book will appeal to armchair travellers and experienced globetrotters alike.

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To Apsara, explore, question, laugh at your own foibles and at folks who think they have the answers.

T ABLE OF C ONTENTS SHIVAS BEACH DAWN P ULAU E NU A RU I SLANDS I NDONESIA - photo 1
T ABLE OF C ONTENTS

SHIVAS BEACH DAWN
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
A milky sunrise on a deserted beach, watching a miracle.

BOYS STUFE
N ATURAL H ISTORY M USEUM , L ONDON
In the Zetland Arms pub near the museum smelling of stale beer and a carpet so threadworn that I sense perhaps Wallace spilled ale on it a hundred and fifty years ago.

SHIVAS BEACH MID-MORNING
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Too hot to walk, too hot to think, too hot to sleep.

TEARS FOR TOSCA
B ATANG A I N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
On the border of Indonesia, a hundred miles upriver from where Wallace shot seventeen orangutans, scrambling through secondary forest to catch a glimpse of the ones that remain.

I WANT OT BE ALONE
B ATANG A I N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
Far upriver from the nearest habitation, sliding down waterfalls.

DIVERS DO IT DEEPER, THEN DIE
M EROR , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Where the Chinese Indonesians get rich and Indigenous Indonesians are shark food.

KILL MOSQUITOES TILL THEYRE DEAD
G UNUNG L EDANG , M ALAYSIA
Sleeping on a ledge next to one of the worlds most beautiful waterfalls amidst some of the worlds most senseless litter.

HAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY ALFRED
J IRLAI , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Is a mans most valuable possession his bow and arrow or a butterfly or a memory or simply time? What do you give a guy who lived a hundred and fifty years ago?

TRUST ME
M INYAMBOU , A RFAK M OUNTAINS , I RIAN J AYA , I NDONESIA
In a mountain village where birds are descended from paradise and where men seek to follow suit.

SHIVAS BEACH LATE AFTERNOON
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Just before rose-colored fireworks.

AN INORDINATE FONDNESS FOR BEETLES
G UNUNG M ULU N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
Why are there so many critters? And why do some folks spend their lives collecting and naming them? Could this be the fast track to immortality?

THE ORGASMIC BUTTERFLY
S ANUR , B ALI , I NDONESIA
Drinking in a quiet bar, watching the worlds greatest dragueur, a Balinese guy with a ponytail and a great line, convince two Australian nurses that their lives will be worthless unless they make love with him.

THE LAST PERKENIER
B ANDA , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
How could one now ignored spice have generated such mayhem?

UP AGAINST THE WALL, COLONALISTS
A RU I SLANDS , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
Can men with bows and arrows control their destiny?

A RENOIR IN THE ATTIC
B UKIT T IMAH N ATURE R ESERVE , S INGAPORE
New species in urban Singapore? Who would have thought?

SHAVAS BEACH NIGHT
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
With stars that make me wish I was a poet.

THE MAN WITH PINS IN HIS LUNGS
K OTAMOBAGU , NORTHERN S ULAWESI , I NDONESIA
After dinner, chatting with a man who speaks with Moses.

SCUBA DIVING FROM REALM TO REALM
O N THE O CEAN F LOOR , K OMODO N ATIONAL P ARK , I NDONESIA
Shallow seas gave Alfred Russel Wallace key ideas about the movement of people and animals.

SERENDIPITY AND DRAGONFLIES
S ANGBURNIH , B ALI , I NDONESIA
In a simple country temple, overlooking the shore where Wallace made landfall.

IN SEARCH OF THE (NOT QUITE) LOST TRIBE OF GIANT WHITE CANNIBALS
B OBALE , OFF THE COAST OF H ALMAHERA , I NDONESIA
Swatting mosquitoes in a neat, stifling village, waiting for the wind to calm down so we can take a boat to look for crypto-Europeans.

HELPING OUR POOR, BROWN NAKED COUSING
G UNUNG M ULU N ATIONAL P ARK , S ARAWAK , M ALAYSIA
In a crude shelter in the rainforest, near a Penan camp.

COME IN RUBBER DUCK
M OROWALI , S ULAWESI , I NDONESIA
In a village where children are gleefully shouting Rubber Duck, Rubber Duck!

SHAVAS BEACH SOMEWHERE IN THE WORLD THE SUN IN SHINING
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Is it really darkest before the dawn?

WOMEN ON TOP
S ANGBURNIH , B ALI , I NDONESIA
Dancing the Balinese version of the hula in front of several hundred very amused villagers with a girl whose goal in life is to make me look like a rut-obsessed goat.

TEN PAGES THAT CHANGED THE WORLD
T ERNATE , M OLUCCAS , I NDONESIA
Wallaces eureka moment, triggered by malarial fever, challenged both his ego and the belief systems of many people.

SHAVAS BEACH BETWEEN LATE AND LATER
P ULAU E NU , A RU I SLANDS , I NDONESIA
Midnight? Three a.m.? Where have all the stars gone?

N OT EVERYTHING THAT CAN BE COUNTED COUNTS, AND NOT EVERYTHING THAT COUNTS CAN BE COUNTED .

T HE 19 TH CENTURY B RITISH BIOCHEMIST J. B. S. H ALDANE, AN ARDENT M ARXIST WHO QUIT E NGLAND FOR I NDIA , WAS ONCE APPROACHED BY A DISTINGUISHED THEOLOGIAN TO ASK WHAT INFERENCES ONE COULD DRAW ABOUT THE NATURE OF THE C REATOR FROM THE STUDY OF H IS C REATION . H ALDANE REPLIED, WITH HIS USUAL TERSENESS, THAT G OD HAS AN INORDINATE FONDNESS FOR BEETLES .

Attribution uncertain. The quote (with reversed parallel phrases) is often attributed to Albert Einstein; some sources say it was written on a sign in his Princeton office, but it does not appear in his published writing. William Bruce Cameron wrote these well-known words, eight years after Einsteins death, in his 1963 textbook Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking.

London United Kingdom A century after his death there is a growing - photo 2

London, United Kingdom
A century after his death, there is a growing re-recognition of Wallaces achievements.

Pulau Enu, Aru Islands, Indonesia

A milky sunrise on a deserted beach, watching a miracle.

A s the sun rises, a bunch of just-hatched turtles, each shorter than my thumb, scamper like reptilian puppies to the sea. After they all reach the ocean safely, I strip and swim in new-turtle water to wash off the sand. Alfred, I half expect to see you straggling out of the scraggly forest, in need of a bath and English-speaking company.

Back at the nest site, a straggler is emerging from the quickly heating sand half an hour behind his nest-mates. Call it biology, or call it a minor miracle, his appearance is both startling and comforting.

This curious birthing ground I dub Shivas Beach. A site of creation.

The laggard baby green turtle marches clumsily but with determined flipper steps into the sea. He swims aggressively, sticking his little head out of the water every few seconds. The water is clear and warm and benign, free of hungry fish or crabs, the sky blue and free of turtle-loving gulls.

The little fellow swims toward a group of seven fishing boats anchored a hundred meters offshore. I tell him not to, but he doesnt listen. But the sea is big, and perhaps he will pass his life free of hassle. Eventually he paddles out of sight. A boy. He doesnt really know where he is going, but he knows he has a journey to make. I wish him well, as much for my sake as for his.

From chaos

Shiva creates

Trident aloft

Natural History Museum, London, United Kingdom

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