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Jonathan Neale - Tigers of the Snow: How One Fateful Climb Made The Sherpas Mountaineering Legends

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Jonathan Neale Tigers of the Snow: How One Fateful Climb Made The Sherpas Mountaineering Legends
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Tigers of the Snow is true story of the tragedy and survival on one of the worlds most dangerous mountains.
In 1922 Himalayan climbers were British gentlemen, and their Sherpa and Tibetan porters were coolies, unskilled and inexperienced casual laborers. By 1953 Sherpa Tenzing Norgay stood on the summit of Everest, and the coolies had become the Tigers of the Snow.
Jonathan Neales absorbing book is both a compelling history of the oft-forgotten heroes of mountaineering and a gripping account of the expedition that transformed the Sherpas into climbing legends. In 1934 a German-led team set off to climb the Himalayan peak of Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain on earth. After a disastrous assault in 1895, no attempt had been made to conquer the mountain for thirty-nine years. The new Nazi government was determined to prove German physical superiority to the rest of the world. A heavily funded expedition was under pressure to deliver results. Like all climbers of the time, they did not really understand what altitude did to the human body. When a hurricane hit the leading party just short of the summit, the strongest German climbers headed down and left the weaker Germans and the Sherpas to die on the ridge. What happened in the next few days of death and fear changed forever how the Sherpa climbers thought of themselves. From that point on, they knew they were the decent and responsible people of the mountain.
Jonathan Neale interviewed many old Sherpa men and women, including Ang Tsering, the last man off Nanga Parbat alive in 1934. Impeccably researched and superbly written, Tigers of the Snow is the compelling narrative of a climb gone wrong, set against the mountaineering history of the early twentieth century, the haunting background of German politics in the 1930s, and the hardship and passion of life in the Sherpa valleys.

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TIGERS

OF THE

SNOW

How One Fateful Climb Made the
Sherpas Mountaineering Legends

J ONATHAN N EALE

Tigers of the Snow How One Fateful Climb Made The Sherpas Mountaineering Legends - image 2

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For my father,
Terry Neale,
with love
I n 1965 I was a sixteen-year-old boy in India. My school, Colvin Taluqdars College in Lucknow, chose three boys to go to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. I was one of them, probably because I was the only foreigner in the school.
Most of the year the Mountaineering Institute ran climbing courses for adults, but in the winter they ran adventure courses around Darjeeling for schoolboys. We trekked, made camp, read maps, and took compulsory cold showers at six in the morning. I made friends with boys from all over India.
The instructors were Sherpas, and we were in awe of them. Nawang Gombu, a stocky bear of a man, had climbed Everest two years before with the Americans and would, on that springs Indian expedition, become the first man to climb it twice. Tenzing Norgay, who had climbed Everest with Hillary in 1953, was director of the institute. He came back from vacation on the last day of our course. When three of us boys saw him standing in the entrance to the institute, we stared at him in admiration. He smiled diffidently at us, the closest Ive ever been to greatness.
The Sherpa instructors on our course were young, and I had never met men like them. They were supremely confident physically, strong and easy as they stood. And yet they were gentle men, soft-spoken and kind. Id grown up in Texas, playing high school football. I wanted, someday, to be a man like the Sherpas.
We practiced climbing on a big rock near the institute. On the trail side the rock was about fifty feet high. On the other side it dropped off a thousand sheer feet. The instructors knelt on top of the rock and held the rope as we inched out over the drop and climbed up to them.
I panicked, freezing, my fingers digging into the rock, my legs shaking. I tried to force my body into the rock, screaming quietly for help.
At the top of the rock Pemba Sherpa held my rope. I couldnt see him. The rock was too steep. But I could hear him, speaking to me gently, reassuring me, telling me I could do it.
I couldnt. The fear and trembling was worse. Telling me it would be all right, Pemba began to haul me up hand over hand, encouraging me to climb. I was a dead weight. I remember his constant, low voice and the strength in his hands as he hauled me up smoothly.
At the top I was ready to be humiliated. Thats what a football coach would have done. Pemba spoke quietly, just to me, and said everybody was afraid.
I never forgot Sherpa men, or the mountains.

Thirty years later I returned to the Himalayas. I trekked round Zanskar, Annapurna, and Sherpa country in Nepal and learned some Nepali and Sherpa. Because I was a writer, I scoured Kathmandus bookshops, where I found hundreds of books on European mountaineers in the Himalayas and none on Sherpa climbers. So I decided to write one.

Sherpas are always there in the mountaineering books, of course, carrying the loads, making the tea, smiling. We see them through the eyes of their employers, and they seem loyal, strong, helpful, brave, and laughing. They also seem short, superstitious, irrationally fearful, and not quite adultsa sort of Himalayan Hobbit.
I have tried to see Sherpas from their own point of view. This involved living in a Sherpa village for six months, learning some of the language, and watching people work with trekkers and tourists. I also interviewed old men and women, to find out both what happened and how they felt about it. And I went back to the old climbing books, trying to read between the lines and guess what the Sherpas were thinking.

In 1922 Himalayan climbers were British gentlemen, and their Sherpa and Tibetan porters were coolies, unskilled and inexperienced casual laborers. By 1953 Sherpa Tenzing Norgay stood on the summit of Everest, and the coolies had become the Tigers of the Snow. This book is about the decisive moment in that change: the German expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1934. That year there was a terrible tragedy high on the mountain. How the German climbers behaved then, and what the Sherpa and Tibetan porters had to do, who lived and who died, changed forever how the porters thought of themselves. This book is primarily about one mountain, and one climb, but that climb reveals much about all the expeditions between 1921 and 1953.

There are fourteen peaks on earth over eight thousand meters (26,247 feet). All of them are part of the great chains of the Himalaya and Karakoram, north of the plains of India. Nanga Parbat, at 26,660 feet, is the tenth-highest mountain on earth. It is on the far western end of the Himalayan chain, in what are now the Northern Territories of Pakistan, and in 1934 it was part of the British colony of India.
The Urdu name Nanga Parbat means naked mountain. Nobody quite knows why, but there are two theories. One is that almost all the other peaks of the Karakoram and Himalaya seem to rise from a dense tangle of surrounding ridges and summits and so are hidden from many directions. K2, for instance, is tucked away in a vast range of peaks, and even Everest is hidden from the south, the summit just poking over the intervening wall of Nuptse. But Nanga Parbat seems to rise alone from the banks of the Indus.
The other theory is that its naked because the walls are so steep that comparatively little snow sticks there, and the black rock shines through.

The first attempt to climb Nanga Parbat was made by a British expedition led by Frank Mummery in 1895. J. Norman Collie, one of the climbers, said that when they first caught sight of the mountain from the trail, instinctively we all took off our hats in order to show that we approached it in a proper spirit.
Frank Mummery was one of the great Alpine climbers of his age. When he started, most English climbers were gentlemen, and almost all climbed in Europe with the help of local Alpine villagers who hired out as professional guides. Mummery was the first man to popularize what was then called guideless climbing, where the gentlemen found their own way. But Mummery knew he would need help in the Himalaya.
He approached the British Gurkha regiments to see if they could find hillmen for high-altitude porters. The Gurkha rank and file and noncommissioned officers were Nepalis who had taken service in the Indian army under British officers. They came from the hills of mid-Nepal, not the high mountains. But they were regarded as brave, tough, and loyal soldiers. They might be very useful.
Charlie Bruce was a Gurkha officer who had done some climbing. He jumped at the chance to go along with the expedition and chose two Gurkhas to climb with Mummery. Raghabir Thapa, Bruce wrote later, was a first-rate rock-climber [and] had been with me in Chilas and Chitral . He was a first-rate man in every way, and had once or twice been on a rope. The other boy [Gaman Singh] was new, though, of course, a born hillman and full of keenness.
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