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Archibald Marshall - A Spring Walk in Provence

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A SPRING WALK IN PROVENCE BY THE SAME AUTHOR THE HOUSE OF MERRILEES RICHARD - photo 1
A SPRING WALK IN PROVENCE
BY THE SAME AUTHOR
THE HOUSE OF MERRILEES
RICHARD BALDOCK
EXTON MANOR
THE SQUIRE'S DAUGHTER
THE ELDEST SON
THE HONOUR OF THE CLINTONS
THE GREATEST OF THESE
THE OLD ORDER CHANGETH
WATERMEADS
UPSIDONIA
ABINGTON ABBEY
THE GRAFTONS
THE CLINTONS, AND OTHERS
SIR HARRY
MANY JUNES
A SPRING WALK IN PROVENCE
PEGGY IN TOYLAND
EVENING AMONG THE OLIVES
A SPRING WALK IN PROVENCE
BY
ARCHIBALD MARSHALL
AUTHOR OF "EXTON MANOR," "SIR HARRY," ETC.
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
NEW YORK
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY
1920
Copyright, 1920, by
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY, Inc.
The Quinn & Boden Company

BOOK MANUFACTURERS
RAHWAY NEW JERSEY
To
SIR OWEN SEAMAN

PREFACE
The following pages owe a considerable debt to what others who have been over the same ground have written. Mr. T. A. Cook's "Avignon" in Dent's "Medival Towns" series, I also owe a great debt of gratitude. The Rev. Sabine Baring-Gould's "In Troubadour Land" (London: W. H. Allen), though slighter than those two works, contains much interesting information. Mistral's "Mes Origines" (Paris: Libraire Plon), translated from the Provenal, is of course invaluable for its pictures of Provenal life, and from that book and from M. Paul Mariton's "La Terre Provenale" (Paris: Ollendorf) one can get the best information about the movement of the Flibrige, which has done so much to revivify the old life of Provence. A good deal of desultory information is afforded by M. Louis de Laincel's "La Provence" (Paris: Oudin), and some of the stories that linger on Provenal soil are well told in M. Charles-Roux's "Lgendes de Provence" (Paris: Bloud). These books, and the French translation of Mistral's "Mirio," which is a mine of Provenal lore, besides being a noble poem, have been my chief "authorities," but they have been very usefully supplemented by the various pamphlets to be picked up locally. Some of these have been excellent, and I have made mention of their authors in the following pages.
The photographs are of my own taking, except those very kindly given to me by Mr. Hope Macey, whom I was fortunate enough to come across in Avignon in the course of an expedition that coincided with mine at many points. The one of Mistral's birthplace I bought at Arles, and those of the picture and tapestry at Aix in Paris.
This account of my spring journey has been finished under the shadow of the great war, which might have caused me to look upon the jours de conscription with which I fell in on the early days of the walk in a light much sadder, if I could have foreseen it. I left Provence in a train full of young soldiers going to their homes in various distant parts of France for their Easter furlough. Of those who crowded the carriage in which I travelled from Arles to Lyons the faces come before me as clearly as if I saw them in the flesh, and I can hear their songs and jokes and laughter. They seemed to have been drawn from all classes, but to mix in the readiest frankest comradeship. Whenever I read now of the French in action I think of those light-hearted boys in their holiday mood, and wonder what they are doing, and how many of them are still alive. One has somewhat changed one's view of the toll that France has taken of her manhood since those days that now seem so far off.
Chateau d'Oex , August, 1914.
The world has changed since this book was written, but I hope that the record of an expedition made in the happy days before the war may still be read with pleasure, now that the great shadow is in part removed. I have been over the manuscript again and made a few alterations here and there, but have altered nothing that shows it to have been written five years ago.
Burley, Hants , August, 1919.

CONTENTS
CHAPTERPAGE
I.Hills and Olives
II.Flowers and Scents
III.In Old Provence
IV.Draguignan and Saint-Maximin
V.The Church of Saint-Maximin
VI.Caius Marius and the Great Battle
VII.Aix
VIII.Salon and the Crau
IX.Les Baux
X.Les Baux (Continued)
XI.Mistral
XII.Saint-Remy
XIII.Avignon
XIV.The Palace of the Popes
XV.Vaucluse
XVI.Nimes and the Pont du Gard
XVII.Aigues-Mortes and the Camargue
XVIII.Saintes-Maries de la Mer
XIX.Saint-Gilles and Montmajour
XX.The Last Walk. St. Michel de Frigolet
XXI.Villeneuve-sur-Avignon
XXII.Arles
[xii]
[xiii]
ILLUSTRATIONS
Evening among the olives
FACING
PAGE
The road downhill "looks just like a temperature chart"
I "posed" him among the ruins
A Provenal shepherd
Fayence could be seen on its own hillside
How they prune the plane-trees
The dolmen near Draguignan
Altar of the Crucifixion, Saint-Maximin
The Field of the Great Battle, with Mount Olympus in the background
The Canterbury Tapestry
The famous "Tarasque"
Le Buisson Ardent
Porte d'Eyguires
The Castle Ruins, Les Baux
The Castle Dovecot, Les Baux
Pavillon de la Reine Jeanne
Huguenot Chapel in Les Baux
Les Baux from the Castle Ruins
One of the beauties of Les Baux
Mistral's birthplace, Mas du Juge
Fresco in the Palace of the Popes at Avignon
The Mausoleum, Saint-Remy
The Triumphal Arch, Saint-Remy
Sixteenth century doors and Virgin and Child of Eighteenth Century, St. Pierre, Avignon
The Pont Benezet
The Cathedral, Avignon
"The Popes' Palace is most like those almost brutally strong buildings that the Romans left"
The "fountain," Vaucluse
The caves above the "fountain"
The Pont du Gard
The Fountains, Nmes
The Maison Carre
The Amphitheatre, Nmes
Aigues-Mortes, the Ramparts
"Looked away to the desolate salt marshes"
Saintes-Maries, the Fortress Church
Saint-Gilles, the Central Porch
The Maison-Romaine
The staircase in the farmyard at Montmajour
Saint-Michel de Frigolet
The Coronation of the Virgin, Villeneuve-Sur-Avignon
A courtyard in Villeneuve
The Rotunda at Villeneuve
The Arena at Arles
The Greek Theatre, Arles
The Cloisters, South walk, St. Trophime
The Cloisters, North walk, St. Trophime
Arles, the Alyscamps
Boy's head in marble, Muse Lapidaire, Arles
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