Beverly Lemire - The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society: Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times

THE FORCE OF FASHION IN POLITICS AND SOCIETY

The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society

Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times

Edited by

BEVERLY LEMIRE

University of Alberta, Canada

First published 2010 by Ashgate Publishing

Published 2016 by Routledge

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Copyright 2010 The Editor and Contributors

Beverly Lemire has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as the editor of this work.

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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

The force of fashion in politics and society: global perspectives from early modern to contemporary times.

(The history of retailing and consumption)

1. Textile industryHistory. 2. FashionSocial aspectsHistory. 3. Fashion merchandisingHistory.

I. Series II. Lemire, Beverly, 1950

338.4768709-dc22

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Lemire, Beverly, 1950

The force of fashion in politics and society: global perspectives from early modern to contemporary times / Beverly Lemire.

p. cm. (The history of retailing and consumption)

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-1-4094-0492-7 (hardcover: alk. paper) 1. FashionHistory. 2. FashionPolitical aspects. 3. Clothing tradeHistory. 4. Textile industryHistory. 5. AdvertisingFashionHistory. 6. Retail tradeHistory. 7. Consumption (Economics)History. I. Title.

TT504.L46 2009

746.92--dc22

2009053221

ISBN 9781409404927 (hbk)

Contents

Beverly Lemire

Ilja Van Damme

Giorgio Riello

Beln Moreno Claveras

Eugnie Briot

Alice Taylor

Colleen E. Kriger

Cory Willmott

B. Lynne Milgram

Karen Tranberg Hansen

It is increasingly recognised that retail systems and changes in the patterns of consumption play crucial roles in the development and societal structure of economies. Such recognition has led to renewed interest in the changing nature of retail distribution and the rise of consumer society from a wide range of academic disciplines. The aim of this multidisciplinary series is to provide a forum of publications that explore the history of retailing and consumption.

Gareth Shaw, University of Exeter, UK

Figures

Maps

Tables

Eugnie Briot is a Doctor in History of Technology at the Centre dHistoire des Techniques et de lEnvironnement (C.D.H.T.E.) of the Conservatoire National des Arts et Mtiers (C.N.A.M., Paris) and an Assistant Professor at the Universit Paris-Est Marne-la-Valle. She has a specific interest in the problems arising from the luxury goods industries, especially as far as the link they maintain with their heritage and history. Her PhD research was devoted to the nineteenth-century French perfumery.

Karen Tranberg Hansen is Professor of Anthropology at Northwestern University. Her books include: Distant Companions: Servants and Employers in Zambia 19001985 (Cornell 1989), Keeping House in Lusaka (Columbia 1997), the edited book African Encounters with Domesticity (Rutgers 1992), the co-edited book (with Mariken Vaa), Reconsidering Informality: Perspectives from Urban Africa (Nordic Africa Institute 2004), and Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia (Chicago, 2000). Her interest in the dressed body culminated in an article in the Annual Reviews of Anthropology (2004), entitled The World in Dress: Anthropological Perspectives on Clothing, Fashion, and Culture. Her recent research was part of a collaborative, multi-year project that was conducted in three rapidly growing cities: Recife in Brazil, Hanoi in Vietnam, and Lusaka in Zambia, Youth and the City in the Global South (Indiana 2008). She is working with colleagues on a book about dress, performance and popular culture in Africa.

Colleen E. Kriger is Professor of History at the University of North Carolina, Greensboro, USA, where she has been a faculty member since 1993. She focuses her research on artisans, skilled labour and commodity currencies in pre-colonial (pre-twentieth-century) African history. She has published articles in Journal of African History, African Economic History, History in Africa and Textile History. Her most recent publications are Cloth in West African History (2006) and Guinea Cloth in The Spinning World: A Global History of Cotton Textiles, 12001850 (2009).

Beverly Lemire is Professor of History and Henry Marshall Tory Chair in the Department of History & Classics and the Department of Human Ecology, University of Alberta, Canada. Books include Fashions Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 16601800 (1991), Dress, Culture and Commerce: the English Clothing Trade before the Factory (1997), and most recently The Business of Everyday Life: Gender, Practice and Social Politics in England, c. 16001900 (2005). She recently published, with Giorgio Riello, East and West: Textiles and Fashion in Early Modern Europe, Journal of SocialHistory 41/4 (2008). She is currently investigating the practice of fashion in various European social communities and has a particular interest in the impact of global trade on new fashion forms between 1600 and 1820.

B. Lynne Milgram is professor of anthropology, in the Faculty of Liberal Studies at the Ontario College of Art & Design. Her research in the Philippines analyses the cultural politics of social change with regard to womens informal sector work in crafts, street vending and the secondhand clothing industry. This research is published in edited volumes and in journals. Milgram has co-edited the books: Economics and Morality: Anthropological Approaches (with K. Browne, 2009); Material Choices: Refashioning Bast Fiber Textiles in Asia and the Pacific (with R. Hamilton, 2007); Artisans and Cooperatives: Developing Alternative Trade for the Global Economy (with K. Grimes, 2000).

Beln Moreno Claveras received her Doctor of History (2002) from the European University Institute (Florence) and she was a postdoctoral researcher (20032004) at the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales (Paris). At the present, and since 2004, she is a professor of Economic History at the Universidad Autnoma de Madrid (Spain). She has worked on the consumption patterns in preindustrial Catalonia, especially on the introduction of new objects in the rural areas and the rise of social inequality between 1670 and 1790. In relation to this line of research, she has also investigated the social differentiation among the peasants taking into account other indicators, apart from consumption, such as the ways to access land and the different agrarian contracts that existed in the eighteenth century. She has several publications about both subjects (see Bibliography).