Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen - Fashionable Encounters: Perspectives and Trends in Textile and Dress in the Early Modern Nordic World

Published in the United Kingdom in 2014 by
OXBOW BOOKS
10 Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford OX1 2EW

and in the United States by
OXBOW BOOKS
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Oxbow Books and the individual authors 2014

Hardcover Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-382-9
Digital Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-383-6; Mobi: ISBN 978-1-78297-384-3; PDF: 978-1-78297-385-0

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Fashionable encounters : perspectives and trends in textile and dress in the early modern Nordic world / edited by Tove
Engelhardt Mathiassen, Marie-Louise Nosch, Maj Ringgaard, Kirsten Toftegaard and Mikkel Venborg Pedersen.
1 online resource. -- (Ancient textiles series ; v. 14)
Includes bibliographical references.
Description based on print version record and CIP data provided by publisher; resource not viewed.
ISBN 978-1-78297-383-6 (epub) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-384-3 (mobi) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-385-0 ( pdf) -- ISBN 978-1-78297
382-9 1. Clothing and dress--Scandinavian Peninsula. 2. Textile industry--Scandinavian Peninsula. 3. Fashion--Scandinavian
Peninsula. 4. National characteristics, Scandinavian. 5. Scandinavian Peninsula--Social life and customs. I. Engelhardt
Mathiassen, Tove
GT1100
391.00948--dc23

2014027771

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Front cover: Johan Heinrich Tischbein, Den Plnske hertugfamilie/The Duke of Pln and his family, 1759. Oil on canvas, 192 300 cm.
The Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Castle, Denmark. Photo: Ole Haupt

Contents

Mikkel Venborg Pedersen

Camilla Luise Dahl & Piia Lempiinen

Eva I. Andersson

Seija Johnson

Pernilla Rasmussen

Maj Ringgaard

Lena Dahrn

Bjrn Sverre Hol Haugen

Cecilie Stger Nachman

Mikkel Venborg Pedersen

Vibe Maria Martens

Kirsten Toftegaard

Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen

Christina Folke Ax

Peter Andreas Toft & Maria Mackinney-Valentin

Juliane Engelhardt

Patrik Steorn

Acknowledgements

The editorial team warmly thanks Cherine Munkholt for her help with editing, coordinating and proofreading. She was assisted by our highly qualified CTR student assistants: Sidsel Frisch, who contributed with intelligent and insightful copyediting suggestions, and who took excellent care of images and verified image qualities and the liaising with the authors and institutions concerning all illustrations; Sandra Schrder Holm who competently and indefatigably worked on image acquisition and copyright; Ulrikka Mokdad whose keen perception in image identification was a great asset, and Niels Mldrup Petersen who persevered with difficult picture searching tasks. Research coordinator Birgit Rnne from the National Museum of Denmark arranged for the financial side of copyrights, and CTRs guest professor Mary Harlow gave us valuable comments on the language, as did Dr. Joanne Cutler, CTRs Marie Curie Fellow/Gerda Henkel Stiftung; and curator Wibeke Haldrup provided a substantial number of images from the Modern Collection, National Museum of Denmark. This book is a result of the international research project Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe, 15001800, funded by Humanities in the Research Area (HERA), investigating the creativity and innovation that lay behind the creation and spread of fashionable goods in early modern Europe. We extend our warm thanks to project leader Prof. Evelyn Welch for her trust, ambition and inspiration.

This book is funded by the Danish National Research Foundation, Fonden af 29 December 1967, the Danish Council for Independent Research, the research project Fashioning the Early Modern: Creativity and Innovation in Europe, 15001800, and the Queen Margrethe and Prince Henrik Foundation. We are truly grateful for this support.

The editors,
Copenhagen, May 2013

List of Illustrations

Fig. 0.0 (Inside front cover): Map of Europe (The Royal Library, Copenhagen, Collection of Maps, Prints and Photographs)

Church, Copenhagen, Denmark (Photo: Erik Fjordside/LivingHistory)

boning of stays for V-shaped conical torsos (Hedmark Museum; Photos: Erik Mostue)

(Den Gamle By; Photo: Lorents Larsen)

Johannes Senn depicts the Danish king Frederik VI and his wife and two daughters in 1813 (Rosenborg Castle; De Danske Kongers Kronologiske Samling)

List of Contributors

Eva I. Andersson is a historian working at the Department of Historical Studies, Gothenburg University, Sweden. She received her PhD in 2006 on a dissertation about clothing and manners of dress in medieval Sweden and Norway. Since 2009 she has been working on a research project on how the conceptions of gender and class related to clothing in early modern Sweden. Her research approach is cross-disciplinary comprising sources both from the field of traditional history, archaeology and art history and her publications involve a long time period, from the late Iron Age to the 18th century, and a range of perspectives from the very concrete topic of fabric consumption in the Middle Ages to the role of clothing in the construction of gender and national identities.

Christina Folke Ax is trained as an ethnologist and received her PhD in 2004 on the theme of Icelandic town and peasant cultures in the 18th and 19th centuries and has published extensively on Norse subjects. From 20042006 she was a Postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Copenhagen followed in 20082010 as an associate at the University of Iceland. She is currently a researcher attached to the National Museum of Denmarks initiative Northern Worlds, where she explores life and culture on the North Frisian Islands as well as seal and whale hunting in the 17th to the 19th centuries. In the past, she has been a member of the steering committee of the research network Encountering Foreignness at Turku University, Finland and the research network Global Cultural History. Network for the study of colonialism and post-colonialism in Copenhagen.

Camilla Luise Dahl is a historian educated at the University of Copenhagen. She currently holds a position as a visiting scholar at the Danish National Research Foundations Centre for Textile Research at the University of Copenhagen. Her primary research interest focuses on medieval and early modern dress in Scandinavia and she is currently working on a project on early modern dress in Danish and Norwegian probate records in the international project Fashioning the Early Modern. Dahl has over the years published a large number of articles and papers in her field of expertise and is the founder of Dragtjournalen a Danish journal dedicated to the study of dress and textiles.

Lena Dahrn graduated with a PhD in Textile Studies from the Art History Department, Uppsala University, in 2010. Her dissertation explored the technique, production, use and reuse of bobbin-made borders and edgings of gold and silver between 1550 and 1640. Prior to this she worked for twenty years as a handicraft consultant (hemsljdskonsulent) specializing in traditional Swedish bobbin lace. She also studied ethnology, economic and art history at Stockholm University. There are two strands to her current research: the flow of luxury textiles into Sweden in the mid-1500s reflected in extant church vestments, and comparison of free-hand peasant lace with bobbin-made golden borders of the midsixteenth century.