Young - Fashion in European art: dress and identity, politics and the body, 1775-1925

Justine De Young is Assistant Professor of the History of Art at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York (SUNY). Her research focuses on nineteenth- and twentieth-century art and literature, visual and material culture, modernism and fashion. She has written widely on art and fashion, notably for the 201213 exhibition, Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity.

Series Editors: Reina Lewis & Elizabeth Wilson

Advisory Board: Christopher Breward, Hazel Clark, Joanne Entwistle, Caroline Evans, Susan Kaiser, Angela McRobbie, Hiroshi Narumi, Peter McNeil, zlem Sandikci, Simona Segre Reinach

Dress Cultures aims to foster innovative theoretical and methodological frameworks to understand how and why we dress, exploring the connections between clothing, commerce and creativity in global contexts.

Published and forthcoming:

Branding Fashion: Bridging the Self and the Social Consumer

by Anthony Sullivan

Delft Blue to Denim Blue: Contemporary Dutch Fashion

edited by Anneke Smelik

Dressing for Austerity: Aspiration, Leisure and Fashion in PostWar Britain

by Geraldine Biddle-Perry

Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body

by Francesca Granata

Fashion in European Art: Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 17751925

edited by Justine De Young

Fashion in Multiple Chinas: Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape

edited by Wessie Ling and Simona Segre Reinach

Fashioning Indie: Popular Fashion, Music and Gender in the Twenty-First Century

by Rachel Lifter

Modest Fashion: Styling Bodies, Mediating Faith

edited by Reina Lewis

Sinophilia: Fashion, Western Modernity and Things Chinese after 1900

by Sarah Cheang

Styling South Asian Youth Cultures: Fashion, Media and Society

edited by Lipi Begum, Rohit K. Dasgupta and Reina Lewis

Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists

edited by Agns Rocamora and Anneke Smelik

Veiling in Fashion: Space and the Hijab in Minority Communities

by Anna-Mari Almila

Wearing the Cheongsam: Dress and Culture in a Chinese Diaspora

By Cheryl Sim

Wearing the Niqab: Fashioning Identities among Muslim Women in the UK

by Anna Piela

Reina Lewis: reina.lewis@fashion.arts.ac.uk

Elizabeth Wilson: mail@elizabethwilson.net

At the publisher, Philippa Brewster: philippabrewster@gmail.com

Fashi o n in Eur o pean Art

Dress and Identity, Politics and the Body, 17751925

Edited by Justine De Young

I dedicate the volume to my husband, Alex

Published in 2017 by

I.B.Tauris & Co. Ltd

London New York

www.ibtauris.com

Copyright Editorial Selection and Introduction 2017 Justine De Young

Copyright Individual Chapters 2017 Emmelyn Butterfield-Rosen, Julie Codell, Justine De Young, Heather Belnap Jensen, Amelia Rauser, Susan L. Siegfried, nne Sll, Andrew Stephenson and Kimberly Wahl

The right of Justine De Young to be identified as the editor of this work has been asserted by the editor in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Every attempt has been made to gain permission for the use of the images in this book. Any omissions will be rectified in future editions.

References to websites were correct at the time of writing.

Dress Cultures

ISBN: 978 1 78453 462 2

eISBN: 978 1 78672 224 9

ePDF: 978 1 78673 224 8

A full CIP record for this book is available from the British Library

A full CIP record is available from the Library of Congress

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: available

C o ntents

Justine De Young

Amelia Rauser

Heather Belnap Jensen

Susan L. Siegfried

Julie Codell

Justine De Young

Emmelyn Butterfield-Rosen

Andrew Stephenson

Kimberly Wahl

nne Sll

Illustrati o ns

Anon., Portrait of a Woman in White, c. 1798. Oil on canvas, 125.5 95 cm. National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC.

Angelica Kauffman, Self-Portrait as the Muse of Painting, 1787. Oil on canvas, 128 93.5 cm. Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence.

Plate V, from Drawings Faithfully Copied from Nature, by Frederick Rehberg, engraved by Tommaso Piroli (Rome, 1794). Etching and engraving, 26.5 20.5 cm. British Museum, London.

Marie Victoire Lemoine, Interior of an Atelier, 1796. Oil on canvas, 116.5 88.9 cm. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

Baron Franois-Pascal-Simon Grard. Portrait of Empress Josphine in her Coronation Costume, 180708. Oil on canvas, 214 160.5 cm. Muse national du Chteau du Fontainebleau. Photo: Erich Lessing, Art Resource, NY.

Pierre-Paul Prudhon. Portrait of Empress Josphine in the Park of Malmaison, 180509. Oil on canvas, 244 179 cm. Muse du Louvre, Paris. Photo: Grard Blot, RMN-Grand Palais / Art Resource, NY.

Antoine-Jean Gros. Portrait of Empress Josphine, 180809. Oil on canvas, 212.5 142 cm. Muse de Massna, Nice. Photo: Erich Lessing, Art Resource, NY.

Firmin Massot. Portrait of Empress Josphine, 1812. Oil on canvas, 74.5 66 cm. The State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg. Photograph The State Hermitage Museum. Photo: Leonard Kheifets.

Achille Devria, Grands costumes, Paris: Ostervald an and Adolphe Fonrouge, 1830, Costume civil de temps de Louis XIII. Lithograph, 34 24 cm. Photo credit: Bibliothque nationale de France.

Achille Devria, Costumes historiques, de ville et du thtre, et travestissements, Paris: Aumont, and Rittner and Goupil; London: Charles Tilt, 18309, plate 1, Mlle. Noblet, dans lopra de la Muette de Portici / rle de la Muette. Lithograph, 34 24 cm. Photo credit: Bibliothque nationale de France.

A. D. Menut, Modes Franaises de 1500 1831, La Caricature (Journal), no. 17 (24 February 1831), plate 34. Lithograph, 30 23 cm. Photo credit: Bibliothque nationale de France.

Achille Devria, Le Got nouveau, Paris: chez Tessari; London: Charles Tilt, 1831, No. 5. Hand-coloured lithograph, 37 30 cm. Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown. Photo the author.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Monna Vanna, 1866 (repainted 1873). Oil on canvas, 88.9 86.36 cm. Tate, London 2015.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Bocca Baciata, 1859. Oil on panel, 32.1 27.0 cm. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Gift of James Lawrence, 1980. 261.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, The Bride / The Beloved, 18656. Oil on canvas, 82.55 76.2 cm. Tate, London 2015.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, The Blue Bower, 1865. Oil on canvas, 84 70.9 cm. Inv. No. 59.1. The Henry Barber Trust The Barber Institute of Fine Arts, University of Birmingham.

Anon., Exchanging Pleasantries before the Body of a Communard, c. 1871. Oil on canvas, 91.7 63.8 cm. Muse dArt et dHistoire, Saint-Denis, France / Bridgeman Images.