Monden - Japanese fashion cultures: dress and gender in contemporary Japan

Dress, Body, Culture

Series Editor: Joanne B. Eicher, Regents Professor, University of Minnesota

Advisory Board:

Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts

Pamela Church-Gibson, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts

James Hall, University of Illinois at Chicago

Vicki Karaminas, University of Technology, Sydney

Gwen ONeal, University of North Carolina at Greensboro

Ted Polhemus, Curator, Street Style Exhibition, Victoria and Albert Museum

Valerie Steele, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

Lou Taylor, University of Brighton

Karen Tranberg Hansen, Northwestern University

Ruth Barnes, Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford

Books in this provocative series seek to articulate the connections between culture and dress, which is defined here in its broadest possible sense as any modification or supplement to the body. Interdisciplinary in approach, the series highlights the dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure and body alternations as manifested in practices as varied as plastic surgery, tattooing, and ritual scarification. The series aims, in particular, to analyse the meaning of dress in relation to popular culture and gender issues and will include works grounded in anthropology, sociology, history, art history, literature and folklore.

ISSN: 1360-466X

Previously published in the series

Helen Bradley Foster, New Raiments of Self: African American Clothing in the Antebellum South

Claudine Griggs, S/he: Changing Sex and Changing Clothes

Michaele Thurgood Haynes, Dressing Up Debutantes: Pageantry and Glitz in Texas

Anne Brydon and Sandra Niessen, Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body

Dani Cavallaro and Alexandra Warwick, Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body

Judith Perani and Norma H. Wolff, Cloth, Dress and Art Patronage in Africa

Linda B. Arthur, Religion, Dress and the Body

Paul Jobling, Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography

Fadwa El Guindi, Veil: Modesty, Privacy and Resistance

Thomas S. Abler, Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms

Linda Welters, Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs about Protection and Fertility

Kim K.P. Johnson and Sharron J. Lennon, Appearance and Power

Barbara Burman, The Culture of Sewing

Annette Lynch, Dress, Gender and Cultural Change

Antonia Young, Women Who Become Men

David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style

Nicola White, Reconstructing Italian Fashion: America and the Development of the Italian Fashion Industry

Brian J. McVeigh, Wearing Ideology: The Uniformity of Self-Presentation in Japan

Shaun Cole, Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Mens Dress in the Twentieth Century

Kate Ince, Orlan: Millennial Female

Nicola White and Ian Griffiths, The Fashion Business: Theory, Practice, Image

Ali Guy, Eileen Green and Maura Banim, Through the Wardrobe: Womens Relationships with their Clothes

Linda B. Arthur, Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross-Cultural Perspective

William J.F. Keenan, Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part

Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson, Body Dressing

Leigh Summers, Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset

Paul Hodkinson, Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture

Leslie W. Rabine, The Global Circulation of African Fashion

Michael Carter, Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes

Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones, Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress

Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore and Joanne B. Eicher, Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress

Helen Bradley Foster and Donald Clay Johnson, Wedding Dress Across Cultures

Eugenia Paulicelli, Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

Charlotte Suthrell, Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture

Irene Guenther, Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich

Yuniya Kawamura, The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion

Patricia Calefato, The Clothed Body

Ruth Barcan, Nudity: A Cultural Anatomy

Samantha Holland, Alternative Femininities: Body, Age and Identity

Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark, Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion

Yuniya Kawamura, Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies

Regina A. Root, The Latin American Fashion Reader

Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham, Twentieth-Century American Fashion

Jennifer Craik, Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression

Alison L. Goodrum, The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization

Annette Lynch and Mitchell D. Strauss, Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning

Catherine M. Roach, Stripping, Sex and Popular Culture

Marybeth C. Stalp, Quilting: The Fabric of Everyday Life

Jonathan S. Marion, Ballroom: Culture and Costume in Competitive Dance

Dunja Brill, Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style

Joanne Entwistle, The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling

Juanjuan Wu, Chinese Fashion: From Mao to Now

Brent Luvaas, DIY Style: Fashion, Music and Global Cultures

Jianhua Zhao, The Chinese Fashion Industry

Eric Silverman, A Cultural History of Jewish Dress

Karen Hansen and D. Soyini Madison, African Dress: Fashion, Agency, Performance

Maria Mellins, Vampire Culture

This book is like a personal diary, a memory lane leading to the people I have met and known throughout my life. It is therefore such a delight to thank the people who have inspired me and made this book possible.

Foremost, I am deeply grateful to my excellent supervisors, mentors and friends, Professor Meredith Jones and Professor Peter McNeil. This book would not have been possible without their continued guidance, enthusiasm and encouragement.

It is important to acknowledge both the Australia Postgraduate Award Scheme and the Faculty of Design, Architecture and Built Environment (DAB) at the University of Technology, Sydney, for offering me funding and facilities that were quite vital to the completion of this book. I would like to thank Ms Ann Hobson and the staff of the Faculty. I am indebted to my former fellow students and friends in both the Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences and DAB, who are too many to name here, for sharing this incredible journey and making it such a convivial experience. It is also my pleasure to acknowledge the support, generosity and advice of many individuals, who have, whether directly or indirectly, ensured the completion of this book. I would like to give special mention to Professor Jaqueline Berndt, Dr Tim Edwards, Dr Lucy Fraser, Professor Alisa Freedman, Ms Tiffany Godoy, Dr Olivier Krischer, Professor Vera Mackie, Ms Patricia Mears, Dr Yumiko Mikanagi, Professor Laura Miller, Professor Brian J. McVeigh, Mr Dominik Mohila, Dr Fuyubi Nakamura, Dr Ronnie Zuessman and two anonymous readers for their valuable suggestions, encouragement and feedback. I would also like to thank Dr Valerie Steele and the Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) team, Professor Toby Slade for offering me memorable opportunities to present portions of this book in New York and Honolulu, and my friends in Japan to whom the foundation of my knowledge and experience in Japanese fashion and popular culture is largely indebted.