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Alison Toplis - The Hidden History of the Smock Frock

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Alison Toplis The Hidden History of the Smock Frock
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The Hidden History of the Smock Frock: summary, description and annotation

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Traditionally associated with rural ways of life in England, often hand-crafted and held up as one of the only items of English folk dress to survive into the 20th century, the smock frock is an object of curiosity in many museum collections. Drawing on a wide variety of sources from surviving garments to newspapers and photographs, this book reveals the hidden history of the smock frock to present new social histories.
Discussing the smock frock in its widest contexts, Alison Toplis explores how garments were handmade and manufactured by the ready-made clothing industry, and bought by men of different trades. She traces the smock frocks usage across England as well as in export markets such as Australia. Following the garments decline in the late 19th century, the book investigates how this essentially utilitarian style of workwear came to be held up as an example of disappearing peasant craft in an emotional response to urbanisation, and how it was preserved by collectors under the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement.
Around the turn of the 20th century, the smock frock was reinvented as both womens and childrens wear and is now regularly revived in fashion collections by the likes of Molly Goddard. Drawing together extensive visual and material cultures, Alison Toplis unravels a new history of the smock frock.

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The Hidden History of the Smock Frock The Hidden History of the Smock - photo 1

The Hidden History
of the Smock Frock

The Hidden History
of the Smock Frock

Alison Toplis

BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London - photo 2

BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK

1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland

BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

First published in Great Britain 2021

Copyright Alison Toplis, 2021

Alison Toplis has asserted her right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this work.

For legal purposes the constitute an extension of this copyright page.

Series design by Adriana Brioso

Cover image: Arthur Smith of Bledlow Ridge, 1872, Victorian Prisoner Photographs Centre for Buckinghamshire Studies, Buckinghamshire Council, reference: Q/AG/2326 Prisoner 4621

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Toplis, Alison (Writer on clothing and dress), author.

Title: The hidden history of the smock frock / Alison Toplis.

Description: London ; New York : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021. |

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2020036652 (print) | LCCN 2020036653 (ebook) |

ISBN 9781350212640 (paperback) | ISBN 9781350126114 (hardback) |

ISBN 9781350126121 (pdf) | ISBN 9781350126138 (epub)

Subjects: LCSH: SmocksHistory. | Work clothesHistory.

Classification: LCC GT1860 .T67 2021 (print) | LCC GT1860 (ebook) |

DDC 391.4/809dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020036652

LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020036653

ISBN: HB: 978-1-3501-2611-4

PB: 978-1-3502-1264-0

ePDF: 978-1-3501-2612-1

eBook: 978-1-3501-2613-8

To find out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com and sign up for our newsletters .

Fashion: Visual and Material Interconnections

Series editor: Rebecca Arnold, The Courtauld Institute of Art, London, UK

This interdisciplinary series explores the ways that the visual and material interact to create and sustain fashion cultures, both historically and today. Published in association with the world-renowned Courtauld Institute of Art, the series seeks to unpack the ways looking, seeing, wearing and being interconnect with wider visual, material and technological cultures of fashion. Through focused studies of specific themes and case studies in fashion and dress history, the series comprises exciting, new research that foregrounds fashion as a lived, emotional and sensory experience. Including both national and transnational examples, ranging from fashion film to periodicals to fashion photography, it fosters and facilitates new ways of thinking about dress as a local and global phenomenon. Titles in the series draw upon fashion studies and dress history, in addition to art, architecture, design history, philosophy, memory studies and the history of emotions.

Published

The Hidden History of the Smock Frock , Alison Toplis

Prt--Porter, Paris and Women: A Cultural Study of French Readymade Fashion, 194568 , Alexis Romano

Forthcoming

Fashion After Capital: Frock Coats and Philosophy from Marx to Duchamp , Tai Smith

Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars , Lucy Moyse Ferreira

Contents Looking back from Kate Greenaway books to my mums home dressmaking - photo 3

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