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Andrew F. Smith - Potato: A Global History

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Andrew F. Smith Potato: A Global History
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From obscure Pre-Columbian beginnings in the Andes Mountains to global popularity today, the story of the potato is one of rags to riches. In Potato, esteemed culinary historian Andrew F. Smith reveals the captivating story of a once lowly vegetable that has changedand continues to changethe world.

First domesticated by prehistoric people in the Andes, the potato has since been adopted by cultures around the globe. For instance, the potato was aggressively adopted by cooks in India and China, where it has become a dietary staple. In fact, these two countries now stand as the worlds largest potato producers. Nonetheless, despite its popularity, in this era of both fast food and health consciousness, the potato is now suffering negative publicity regarding its low nutritional value. Its health benefits continue to be debated, especially considering that the potato is most often associated with the ubiquitous but high-calorie french fry.

Potato is a captivating read that provides a concisely written but thoroughly researched account of the history, economy, politics, and gastronomy behind this beloved starchas well as recipes. As loaded with goodies as a well-dressed baked potato, this book is comforting and satisfying.

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POTATO Edible Series Editor Andrew F Smith EDIBLE is a revolutionary new - photo 1
POTATO

Picture 2

Edible

Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith

EDIBLE is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage.

Already published

Cake Nicola Humble

Caviar Nichola Fletcher

Cheese Andrew Dalby

Chocolate Sarah Moss and
Alexander Badenoch

Curry Colleen Taylor Sen

Dates Nawal Nasrallah

Hamburger Andrew F. Smith

Hot Dog Bruce Kraig

Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss

Lobster Elisabeth Townsend

Milk Hannah Velten

Pancake Ken Albala

Pie Janet Clarkson

Pizza Carol Helstosky

Sandwich Bee Wilson

Spices Fred Czarra

Soup Janet Clarkson

Tea Helen Saberi

Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar

Potato

A Global History

Andrew F. Smith

REAKTION BOOKS

Published by Reaktion Books Ltd
33 Great Sutton Street
London EC1V 0DX, UK
www.reaktionbooks.co.uk

First published 2011

Copyright Andrew F. Smith 2011

All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission of the publishers.

Page references in the Photo Acknowledgements and
Index match the printed edition of this book.

Printed and bound in China by C&C Offset Printing Co. Ltd

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Smith, Andrew F., 1946
Potato: a global history. (Edible)
1. Potatoes History. 2. Potato products History.
3. Cooking (Potatoes)
I. Title II. Series1
641.3 521-DC22

eISBN: 9781861899972

Contents

Potato A Global History - image 3

Introduction

Potato A Global History - image 4

The potatos history is a rags-to-riches story, from its obscure beginnings in the Andes mountains of South America in pre-Columbian times to its global stardom today. There are many reasons for the potatos success: it thrives at high altitudes and in arid climates where other staple crops, such as wheat, rice and corn (maize) cant grow; it has a fairly short growing season (75 days); and it requires relatively little effort to cultivate and harvest, for which the only tool needed is a spade for planting, weeding and digging up the potatoes.

Potatoes are also prolific. A single plant produces an average of 4.4 pounds (2 kg) of potatoes, but productivity can be much greater. The Guinness World Records credits the Englishman Eric Jenkins with growing more than 370 lb (168 kg) of potatoes from a single tuber.

Then theres the potatos nutritional content. A medium-sized raw potato contains a mere one hundred calories and is a good source of vitamins C and B6, and of minerals including iron, potassium and zinc. If the skin is eaten, the potato is an excellent source of dietary fibre. Potatoes contain no fat or cholesterol, and are also low in sodium. They are a fine component of a healthful, balanced diet if they are prepared simply and sauced or flavoured with ingredients that are low-fat or fat-free such as yoghurt, onions, herbs or salsa.

Mashed potato soda The potato is easily transported and keeps well for - photo 5

Mashed potato soda.

The potato is easily transported, and keeps well for months if stored properly. It is low-cost and adaptable to a tremendous variety of dishes featuring all sorts of tastes, textures and aromas. Potatoes can be boiled, baked, fried, roasted, steamed, sauted, mashed, hashed, souffled and scalloped. They are used in pancakes, dumplings, salads, soups, stews, chowders and savoury puddings. Due to this versatility, more potatoes are consumed than any other vegetable, and in terms of international production, potatoes rank behind only wheat and rice as the most important food in the world.

As important as the potato is today, hundreds of years were to pass after Europeans first ran into the spud in South America in the mid-sixteenth century before it was widely adopted in the mid-nineteenth century in Europe. It was not generally consumed in China, today the worlds largest potato producer, until the mid-twentieth century. The potatos path to stardom began about 12,000 years ago.

1
The Wild and
Domesticated Potato

Potato A Global History - image 6

The traditional view of human settlement in the Americas is that indigenous peoples crossed the Bering Straits 16,000 years ago and moved rapidly down the west coast of the Americas, reaching Monte Verde in southern Chile about 14,000 years ago. These early Americans were hunters and gatherers, and they were sustained by a vast variety of edible wild plants. Among these were 235 different species of potatoes, which inhabited a wide expanse of territory encompassing most of South America as well as Central America and the American Southwest. Of all the domesticated food plants in the world today, none boasts as large a group of wild ancestors as the potato.

The western coast of South America has a narrow desert intersected by valleys carved out by rivers originating a short distance away, in the Andes, one of the worlds longest and highest mountain ranges. The eastern side of the Andes gradually slopes into dense tropical rainforests. Within this fragmented geography, numerous microclimates and a wide range of environments can be found, from deserts and fertile river valleys to jungles and glaciers.

The Andes have little flat land or fertile soil, but indigenous farmers terraced mountainsides, constructed irrigationditches and domesticated an estimated seventy plants almost as many plants as were domesticated in all of Europe or Asia. Twenty-five were tuber or root crops, such as the peppery-tasting au or mashua (Tropaeolum tuberosum), the radish-like maca (Lepidium meyenii), the brightly coloured oca (Oxalis tuberosa) and the ulluco (Ullucus tuberosus), as well as seven potato species, the most important being Solanum tuberosum. Many root plants are still grown commercially in South America today, but only one, S. tuberosum the common potato was catapulted from obscurity to global importance.

Domestication of S. tuberosum was likely accomplished around 10,000 BCE by Andean farmers, probably in the Lake Titicaca basin. In one of the worlds most inhospitable terrains for agriculture, the potato became the chief food of the people. The potato was well suited to the warm days of summer, which encouraged the growth of the above-ground plant, and the cold nights encouraged the growth of the tuber. Through trial and error, Andean farmers concluded that potatoes could be propagated by seed or by planting sprouts from its tubers. Not all potato plants produce seed balls, which are about the size of a cherry tomato. Growing plants from seeds produced a vast array of shapes, colours, sizes and tastes, but when a farmer found a type of potato he liked, he perpetuated the strain by planting the tubers, which are clones of the original plant. In this way, pre-Columbian peoples grew about 200 varieties of potatoes, and thousands more have been subsequently developed, making potatoes one of the worlds most diverse domesticated crops.

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