Copyright 2013, 2015 by Gary Regan
Photographs copyright 2015 by Kelly Puleio
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC.
Originally published in Great Britain in different form by Mixellany Limited, Cheltenham, in 2013.
Grateful acknowledgment is made to Natasha Case, Freya Estreller, Kathleen Squires, and Houghton Mifflin Harcourt for the recipe Negroni Ice Cream from The Coolhaus Ice Cream Book , copyright
2014 by Natasha Case and Freya Estreller with Kathleen Squires. Adapted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Regan, Gary.
The negroni : drinking to la dolce vita, with recipes and lore / Gary Gaz Regan ; photography by Kelly Puleio. First American edition.
pages cm
Includes index.
1. Cocktails. 2. Negroni, Camillo, 1868-1934. I. Title.
TX951.R3645 2015
641.874dc23
2014034991
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-779-6
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-60774-780-2
v3.1
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO AMY GALLAGHER,
MY ONE TRUE LOVE. LETS SPIN THIS OUT FOR
ANOTHER COUPLE OF THOUSAND YEARS, BABE.
CANT YOU SEE ITS ALL PERFECT?
NEEB KARORI BABA (MARARAJ-JI)
CONTENTS
PART ONE
THE LORE
PART TWO
THE RECIPES
RECIPE LIST
FOREWORD: PERFECTION KNOWS ITS PLACE
BY ROBERT SIMONSON
Ask bartenders what their favorite cocktail is, and 90 percent of the time theyll say one of two things: the old-fashioned or the Negroni.
For all the pyrotechnics and eleven-ingredient drinks of the twenty-first-century bar world, mixologists respect simplicity more than anything. And the old-fashioned and Negroni are as elemental as a drink can come. I am an old-fashioned man. But I am in sympathy with those who think the Negroni may be the perfect cocktail. Yes, the old-fashioned adheres, to the letter, to the classic definition of the cocktail: spirit, sugar, water, and bitters. But it doesnt possess that magical quality, owned by the Negroni (and few other drinks), of having located its sweet spot of balance and deliciousness in the equal proportion of its ingredients. One-third gin, one-third sweet vermouth, and one-third Campari: thats itthats the Negroni in all its improbable poetry.
Within that three-decker arrangement, the Negroni manages to bring every taste bud into play. The gin provides its varied botanical bite. The vermouth lends a bit of sweet, a bit of spicy. Most critically, Campari brings on the bitter so beloved by a barkeeps sophisticated palate. Whatever sensation youre looking for in your cocktail, its in there, and that dichotomy of variety within purity is what bewitches so many. Moreover, the Negroni gives each of these challenging ingredients a chance to shine. No member of the trio dominates; all have their say. The Negroni is a democracy.
As with the old-fashioned, the Manhattan, and other classics built on a sturdy foundation, the Negroni invites experimentation. Bartenders switch up the gin and vermouth brands and even sub out the spirit completely. (Thankfully, the Campari is rarely up for debate.) These fits of fancy often lead to interesting drinks (but, Id argue, rarely better ones).
Although its a relatively old drink, the Negronis rise to prominence is recent. Perhaps the fact that it was invented on the eve of Prohibition explains why it didnt get much traction in the States until after World War II, when the drink began to appear in newspapers and restaurants on both coasts. But the Negronis true heyday is now. A few years into the twenty-first century, the cocktail was everywhere. A turning point of sorts came when the restaurant Lincoln opened at the Lincoln Center and devoted an entire bar to the Negroni and its variations. (Curiously, the Negroni seems to be even more popular among chefs than it is with bartenders.) At this rate of ascendancy, the Negroni will graduate in a few years time from its status as a secondary classic to the halcyon plane occupied by the martini, Manhattan, old-fashioned, and select other top-drawer cocktails. Perfection knows its place.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Ive known quite a few adequate editors in my time as a writer, and quite a few who do a good job, too. Ive encountered only a few masters of the craft, though. Roy Finamore, editor of my baby, The Joy of Mixology , is one of them, and David Stevens (now retired) of Playboy magazine, is another. Jon Bonn, my editor at the San Francisco Chronicle for over a decade, consistently made my work far better than I ever could have managed on my own, and Martha Schueneman, my friend as well as my editor for many projects, also falls into this category. Nobody does it better, Ms. M.
Emily Timberlake, editor of this book and the woman who sought me out in order to get this particular show on the road, now joins Roy, David, and Martha at the very top of the editorial pyramid. You are uncannily fabulous and intuitive, Emily. I thank Great Spirit for putting us together.
Thanks also to the ever-thoughtful Robert Simonson (I treasure my silver gaz matchbox cover!) for such a fine foreword, and for being a true and loyal friend in the industry.
A huge thanks is due to photographer Kelly Puleio, who added so much depth and mood to these pages that I think I could live in this book very happily indeed, and to our designer, Margaux Keres, who also brought so much to this party that its hard to imagine what the book would have looked like without her. Thanks, guys. You both rock.
And finally Id like to thank, from the bottom of my Negroni-laden heart, each and every bartender who shared their recipes, and their thoughts on the Negroni, for this book. When we meet at that great stretch of mahogany in the sky, the first Negronis on me.
INTRODUCTION
The crowning glory of Campari-based mixed drinks must be the Negroni. Made with equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari, the Negroni is traditionally served on the rocks with a slice of orange. So, at what point in a meal do I order my Negroni? Whenever I darned well feel like it. Thats when. Sometimes it serves as my digestivo, sometimes its my apritif, and sometimes I order a Negroni when I have no plans to dine at all. Its a robust cocktail thats not as strong as, say, a martini, but it lets you know that youve had something substantial to drink. Gary Regan
It may seem odd to start this book with an epigraph written by me. The quotation above is from a piece I wrote for Los Angeles magazine in September 2001. Yes, you read that right, 2001 well before the craft cocktail craze, let alone the Negroni craze, that is currently sweeping the country was in full swing. The title of my article was Italian Sophistication: Bitter Is Better, and I feel even more strongly about that assertion now than I did nearly fifteen years ago.