A big thank you to Marie-Pierre what do you know, I seem to be missing a brain today and to Jos, always on top of his game. Thank you, Pauline for this very good trip. Thank you, Ciinniinniiii. Thank you, Aurlie, the unknown lady of the emails, and your typo-hunting. Thank you, Jacquy, it had been a while.
First published by Marabout in 2012.
Published in 2014 by Murdoch Books, an imprint of Allen & Unwin. Murdoch Books Australia 83 Alexander Street Crows Nest NSW 2065 Phone: +61 (0) 2 8425 0100 Fax: +61 (0) 2 9906 2218 www.murdochbooks.com.au Murdoch Books UK Erico House, 6th Floor 9399 Upper Richmond Road Putney, London SW15 2TG Phone: +44 (0) 20 8785 5995 Fax: +44 (0) 20 8785 5985 www.murdochbooks.co.uk For Corporate Orders & Custom Publishing contact Noel Hammond, National Business Development Manager, Murdoch Books Australia Publisher: Sue Hines Photographer: Marie-Pierre Morel Stylist: lodie Rambaud Illustrations: Jos Reis De Matos Translator: Melissa McMahon Editor: Katie Bosher Food editor and testing: Sonja Bernyk Project editor: Claire Grady Production: Karen Small Text and Design Hachette Livre (Marabout) 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. A cataloguing-in-publication entry is available from the catalogue of the National Library of Australia at www.nla.gov.au. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Colour reproduction by Splitting Image, Clayton, Victoria.
ISBN: 9781743369869 (ebook). IMPORTANT: Those who might be at risk from the effects of salmonella poisoning (the elderly, pregnant women, young children and those suffering from immune deficiency diseases) should consult their doctor with any concerns about eating raw eggs. OVEN GUIDE: You may find cooking times vary depending on the oven you are using. For fan-forced ovens, as a general rule, set the oven temperature to 20C (35F) lower than indicated in the recipe. MEASURES GUIDE: We have used 20 ml (4 teaspoon) tablespoon measures. If you are using a 15 ml (3 teaspoon) tablespoon add an extra teaspoon of the ingredient for each tablespoon specified.
The stylist would like to thank: Couteau TB : www.tb-groupe.fr Concrete-wax backdrops Marius Aurenti: www.mariusaurenti.com Couverts Cutipol: www.cutipol.pt The food editor would like to thank Phillip Mitchell and his team of butchers from Castlecrag Meats for his assistance, expertise and knowledge in offal and whole beast butchery: www.castlecragmeats.com.au
ON THE MENU
LE PIED FEET |
LA QUEUE TAIL |
LA JOUE CHEEK |
LE FOIE LIVER | LA LANGUE TONGUE |
LE GSIER GIZZARDS | LA CERVELLE BRAINS |
LES ROGNONS KIDNEYS | LA TTE HEAD |
LA TRIPE TRIPE | LES PICES DU BOUCHER BUTCHERS CUTS |
LE RIS SWEETBREADS | LES TESTICULES UDDERS & TESTICLES |
LE CUR HEART
| TABLE DES MATIRES LIST OF RECIPES |
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF OFFAL
Heart, gizzards, tripe, brains, tail These pieces that we perhaps wouldnt cook, whether from lack of culinary knowledge or fear, make up the great family of offal. Mamma mia! They are often reserved for private consumption between friends and enlightened enthusiasts. There is something rather manly or masculine about offal, but look more closely and its feminine side, soft and delicate, is never very far away. Calfs head isnt cooked in one-person serves, its something you gather around. We cook tripe in batches of at least five kilograms, so well keep some in the freezer and set aside a serving or two for the neighbours, who love it but dont dare cook it. A beef cheek bourguignon will be the joy of Sunday lunch and for days afterwards it is so much better reheated! Forget prejudices, go back to the butcher, get some advice and dare to cook.
Offal appears in daily life in many dishes. A sausage cannot exist without its intestinal casing, andouillette is filled with pigs innards, terrines are often packed with pork liver, with a soft piece of caul fat wrapped around them Offal is all around us. Its there, lurking on a friendly butchers display and waiting patiently for the chance to take centre stage on our plates and shout loud and clear:
TOUS TABLE!
LE FOIE LIVER BEEF LIVER: ready to cook (prepared by the butcher) CALFS LIVER: ready to cook (prepared by the butcher) PORK LIVER: ready to cook (prepared by the butcher. May need to be ordered ahead) LAMBS LIVER: ready to cook (prepared by the butcher. May need to be ordered ahead) CHICKEN (OR OTHER POULTRY) LIVER: remove the gall bladder (small green pouch) if still attached
ORGAN LOCATED IN THE ABDOMEN,
THAT SECRETES BILE AND WORKS TO METABOLISE CARBOHYDRATES, FATS AND PROTEINS
The liver is a powerhouse of nutrients. High in protein and low in fat, it is the ally of every diet: Are you fat? Eat some liver! Are you skinny? Eat some liver! It is also, however, a catalyst of heavy metals and purines, so keep an eye on your big toe; gout lies in wait for the high livers who overindulge...
In the collective memory, the liver has the peculiar characteristic of being associated with a sort of fertiliser that will help the littlest among us to shoot up like flowers in springtime. Dont fret, mon petit , eat your liver and youll grow in no time, my grandmother would say to me with the benevolence of a loving mamie. Its true that at sixteen years old, 162 centimetres tall and 0.096 tonnes, there was reason to fear that a few psychological complexes lay ahead. But I did not fret, I controlled my bile, my liver took care of it. The growth spurt happened: 25 extra centimetres at the withers for 0.100 tonnes at the weigh-in. Grannys faith in the liver was confirmed, a legend that was to live on.
Since that day, the life of the liver has continued unperturbed, and so much the better. Eat your liver, mes petits , and youll grow in no time, a certain Stphane was saying the other day, with the benevolence of a loving papa!
CALFS LIVER LES HALLES STYLE SERVES 6 10 MINUTES PREPARATION TIME 10 MINUTES COOKING TIME 6 thick slices of calfs liver (about 750 g/1 lb 10 oz) 35 g (1 oz/ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour Salt and pepper 150 g (5 oz) butter, chopped 4 French shallots, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar THE LIVER Since calfs liver is best eaten pink, its good to get slices that are thick, rather than wide. Flour and season the liver slices. COOKING In a large heavy-based frying pan, preferably made of cast iron (its better), melt the butter over a medium heat until it becomes foamy. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes, or until softened. Add the liver to the pan and cook for 23 minutes on each side, or until browned but still pink in the centre.