Ron Suhanosky - Pasta Sfoglia: From Our Table to Yours, More Than 100 Fresh, Seasonal Pasta Dishes

This book is printed on acid-free paper.

Copyright 2009 by Ron and Colleen Suhanosky. All rights reserved

Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey

Published simultaneously in Canada

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 646-8600, or on the Web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, or online at www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.

For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002.

Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our Web site at www.wiley.com.

Design by Vertigo Design NYC

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:

Suhanosky, Ron.

Pasta Sfoglia / Ron & Colleen Suhanosky, with Susan Simon.

p. cm.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-0-470-37133-6 (cloth); 978-1-118-11134-5 (ebook); 978-1-118-11135-2 (ebook)

1. Cookery (Pasta) 2. Cookery, Italian. 3. Sfoglia (Restaurant) I. Suhanosky, Colleen. II. Simon, Susan, 1945- III. Title.

TX809.M17S92 2009

641.822--dc22

2009019339

Printed in China

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

For my grandmother, Rachel Gaudino, and for Colleens grandfather, Joseph Piazza, whose sense of style, sophistication, ambition, and dedication to tradition has influenced our lives in every way

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

THE FIRST THING I THINK ABOUT when I wake up in the morning is pasta. As I remember all the great people who have influenced, inspired, and supported my passion for pasta and, therefore, this book, Ive chosen to show my appreciation with a plate of my favorite primo piatto made especially for them.

My biggest thank you goes to my wife, Colleen. Colleen, my partner and dedicated mother of our three children, has a special way of thinking about food that continues to inspire me. The first pasta that I made for Colleen was spaghetti tossed with a raw tomato sauce. With deep gratitude and affection, I give her un grande piatto di spaghetti con salsa cruda.

My first cooking job was for my great-grandma Big Nonna, Rose Carbone. Every Sunday she would shout to me from her kitchen, Testing time! I would taste the pasta cooking on her stove for doneness, and she would then serve it with her special Chicken Rag. Big Nonna, for you, my interpretation of your recipe.

Both of my grandmothers showed me the importance of all the family being together around the table. Thank you to my grandmother Rachel Gaudino, who shared her recipe for Holiday Crab and Lobster Sauce; I share my version with her. To my Polish/Hungarian grandmother, Irene SuhanoskyGrandma Noskywhose use of ingredients has influenced my cooking style in many ways, I give my Whole Wheat Spaghetti, Cabbage, Wild Mushrooms, Guanciale, Caraway.

To my mother and father, Valerie and Ronald, who worked hard to ensure that my dreams could be realized, and who patiently tasted my first attempts at gnocchi making, although they referred to them as sinkers, I serve a big bowl of my greatly improved gnocchi tossed with their favorite Bolognese sauce.

Inheriting history from the famous Caf di Napoli in Minneapolis, which Colleens grandfather Joseph Piazza opened in the 1940s, has helped us create a special setting in both Sfoglia restaurants. For my mentor in the restaurant business, Joe Piazza, I carry on his tradition of classic lasagne.

For Colleens mother and father, Carol and John Marnell, for sharing their love of growing vegetables and showing us the importance of the earth, I bring their family tradition of cannelloni to the table.

I want to give a mille grazie to Susan Simon for her advice, guidance, and yes, criticismall of which have helped me further define and articulate my passion for food. Susans enthusiasm for food and words has been invaluable in the shaping and construction of this book. I think Susan would be very pleased with a plate of my Gnocchi, Chicken Livers, Hazelnuts, Raisins, Vin Santo.

I would like to give many thanks to all the great people I have met along the way who have been particularly kind to me and Colleen. Chefs, authors, and teachers who have been generous with their insights and advice: Michelle Scicolone, David Burke, Lidia Shire, Susan Regis, Rita DAngelo, Marisa Iocco, Danilo LaRusso, Nonna LaRusso, Benedetta Valdi, Fabio Picchi, Lorenzo and Eileen DeMonaco, Donna Leonard, Alberto Avalle, Marida Cuccuracci, and Nancy Verde Barr.

Steadfast friends whose goodwill has gone beyond the usual: Bryan and Kathy Marsal, Louis Ceruzzi, Laura Simon and Jimmy Gross, Ray Owen, Bob and Ellen Grimes, Louise Fili, and John Derian.

The dedicated people who have helped bring Sfoglia to the table: Molly Smith, my first New York chef de cuisine; Nathan Smith; Jennifer Nelson; Adrien Martin; Alison Fosgren and Willy LeMay; Alice Fiddian-Green; Malcolm Brooks; and Jordi Cabre. Balmoris Bobby Mendoza, my man on Nantucket, who makes it possible for me to have two businesses on two different islands at the same time.

Our Auntie, Celia Santos, for taking such good care of our kids, Vivian, Marcella, and Roman.

For the belief that Sfoglia could be published in the form of a cookbook, I give thanks to my agent, Susan Ginsburg, and to the people at John Wiley & Sons for being good shepherds of this project. Photographer Ben Fink, for his great photos of my food and family. Roy Finamores keen eye is evident in the way he styled the photos. To Alison Lew at Vertigo Design, for understanding and expressing what Sfoglia is about through the design of this book.

I wouldnt have a reason to cook if it werent for all the regular diners at both Sfoglia restaurants, Nantucket and New York City. I want to thank them for their continuous support. Mille grazie e buon appetito!

FROM SUSAN SIMON: I knew that something special was going on the first time I had a bowl of pasta at the original Sfoglia restaurant on Nantucket. As I continued to frequent Ron and Colleens charming restaurant and eat their delicious food, a friendship developed. It was a friendship rooted in our mutual passion for all things Italian. When the Suhanoskys opened their New York City Sfoglia just several subway stops away from me, our relationship expanded. Actually, it grew into this cookbook. I want to thank Ron and Colleen for giving me the opportunity to share the experience of Pasta Sfoglia with them. Grazie mille!