Contini - Carina Continis kitchen garden cookbook : a year of Italian Scots recipes

First published in 2014

by Frances Lincoln Ltd, 74-77 White Lion Street, London N1 9PF

www.franceslincoln.com

This e-book edition first published in 2014

Carina Continis Kitchen Garden Cookbook

Copyright Frances Lincoln 2014

Text and photographs copyright Carina Contini 2014

Artworks on pages National Gallery of Scotland

All rights reserved

This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the authors and publishers rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Digital edition: 978-1-78101-145-4
Hardcover edition: 978-0-7112-3460-4

Im blessed to have been surrounded by food all my life. Is it because my Italian roots reveal themselves most obviously through food? Is it my love of wonderful fresh ingredients, simply prepared? Is it because food can bring us closer to people and can enable us to sit with them and share a meal in a busy life? Is it because we cherish the artisan skills of those who are dedicated to growing and gathering the raw materials that make our meals?

Is it our peasant roots that connect us with nature and with the bountiful harvests that Scotland and Italy deliver? Is it because food has always provided our livelihood? Or is it simply our love of eating and of nurturing those who are dearest to us with healthy food that will sustain them even when they arent by our side?

Its all of the above.

I was born in Edinburgh of parents born in Scotland and Italy. Ive lived in Edinburgh for the majority of my life and have only ever holidayed in Italy. Im embarrassed when I speak Italian, but I cook like an Italian and eat like an Italian of the 1950s just like my parents. I feel as if I have the best of both worlds and Im proud to call myself an Italian-Scot.

I love how, in 1954, Elizabeth David described the many virtues of Italian cooking in her book Italian Food. She talks of Italians extravagance with raw ingredients, of their precise awareness of foods quality and freshness, of how a little can be made to go a long way, of culinary skill and care, and of food that is cheap and simple to make.

She describes Englands (and Scotlands, of course) homegrown knowledge of preserving, baking and roasting, and of its great wealth of game, but she also talks about the disconnect with food in the Britain of the 1950s and of the lack of ideas and courage in cooking. She yearned to get back to the once-famous sense of quality for which pre-war British food was famous.

With the war over, the limitations of post-war rationing, followed in the 1960s by the technological explosion and in the 1970s by the expansion of supermarkets, all meant that the British slowly lost touch with their food and with an understanding of its origins.

This is slowly changing. Scotland and the UK as a whole have finally regained their desire for good-quality food. Artisan skills are now cherished. We are conscious of waste and its cost at every level. Animal welfare and husbandry are paramount. Home-made wins over shop-bought every time. People have learnt that local, seasonal, sustainable food not only supports the environment but is also cheaper, tastier and healthier. Its a win on every front.

As a Scot, Ive been fortunate to have enjoyed the best of Scotlands larder the finest beef, lamb, shellfish, hardy root vegetables and delicate soft fruits. As an Italian, eating and cooking are in my blood. It was natural for me to be helping Mummy in the kitchen just as it was natural for her to nurture my culinary skills.

My grandparents, having left the mountains in the middle of the Abruzzi, opened an ice cream shop when they arrived in Scotland in 1919. This developed into a thriving caf, restaurant and catering business run by my parents for over 70 years. They fed thousands of people with simple, good-quality, seasonal food.

Fast forward almost 100 years, and my husband and I have now taken up the mantle. The journey to our kitchen garden has carried us full circle back to the land. This book touches on some of the stories of our journey and the recipes that form part of it. It also introduces you to the many and varied characters who have helped me develop and refine my Italian-Scots love affair with food.

Mummy taught me well to make the most of what this glorious country has to offer, and to combine it with a little Italian know-how. I hope this book will help me share that passion with you.

me Number Eight child of Johnny and Gertrude Di Ciacca. Wife to Victor and mother to Orlando, Carla and Arianna. Co-founder of Ristorante Contini and The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant in Edinburgh. Loves a laugh but takes on too much, which makes her grumpy sometimes.

victor Business partner and my darling. Sweetens everyone up and keeps us all in harmony. Has been known to ride horses and dive, and now has his beehives. Always wants to make a friend or customer feel better when they leave than when they arrive. Passionate about Italian wine and adores cleaning the Aga.

orlando Number One son. Orlando Furioso. Orlando the Peacemaker. We waited a long time for our four-and-a-half-kilo, bouncing baby boy and it was love at first sight. Destined to be a Lego designer. As well as keeping the peace, he always makes us laugh. The life and soul of the family.

carla Number One Angel. Shes Daddys darling. Sporty, artistic, energetic, talks for Britain, eats like a little piggy and looks like a thoroughbred race horse. Shes Mummys little chef always in the kitchen, helping.

arianna Number One Christmas Day Baby. As sweet as honey to look at but youre never quite sure what shes thinking. Has a mind of her own and is always one step ahead of everyone else. Nicknamed Trouble, but shes Mummys pet.

daddy Johnny Di Ciacca. Daddy was 51 when I was born. He made the best ice cream for over 70 years. Loved a wee nip (actually several big nips), a cigar and a cashmere jumper. Was easily pleased. His laugh was infectious and often got him into trouble. Feared and loved in equal quantities.

mummy Gertrude Di Ciacca. Mother of eight with the constitution of an ox and the elegance of a 1940s American movie star. Loved glam, glitter and parties in her youth. Still loves them in her eighties. Cooked beautiful, homemade, simple food for thousands at the Wemyss Caf for over 40 years and never got her apron dirty once!

the magnificent seven The name for the children of Johnny and Gertrude Di Ciacca, until I came along. Four boys, three girls and then I arrived!