Rachel Laudan - The Food of Paradise: Exploring Hawaiis Culinary Heritage (Kolowalu Books)

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title	:	The Food of Paradise : Exploring Hawaii's Culinary Heritage
author	:	Laudan, Rachel.
publisher	:	University of Hawaii Press
isbn10 | asin	:	0824817087
print isbn13	:	9780824817084
ebook isbn13	:	9780585285528
language	:	English
subject	Cookery, Hawaiian, Cookery, Hawaiian--History.
publication date	:	1996
lcc	:	TX724.5.H3L38 1996eb
ddc	:	641.59969
subject	:	Cookery, Hawaiian, Cookery, Hawaiian--History.

Page i The Food of Paradise

Page iii The Food of Paradise Exploring Hawaii's Culinary Heritage Rachel Laudan

Page iv For the gardener who chatted to me as she picked mangoes, for the market stall owner who took the time to explain how to use pigweed, for the man in the mom-and-pop store who answered my questions about cascaron, for the volunteers in fairs and carnivals who demonstrated andagi and malasadas and halo-halo, for the students who chatted about their Thanksgiving dinners, and their mothers' soba noodles, and their fathers' soup of pig's feet, and for all the other people of Hawaii whose names I never learned but who gladly talked about their foods to a stranger. 1996 University of Hawai'i Press All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 01 00 99 98 97 96 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Laudan, Rachel, 1944 The food of Paradise: exploring Hawaii's culinary heritage/Rachel Laudan. p. cm. "A Kolowalu book." Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0824817087 (cloth: alk. paper). ISBN 0824817788 (paper: alk. paper) I. Cookery, Hawaiian. 2. Cookery, HawaiianHistory. I. Title. TX724.5.H3L38 1996 641.59969dc20 95-46407 CIP Designed by Brian Ellis Martin with assistance from Susan E. Kelly Produced by Marquand Books Inc., Seattle Printed and bound in U.S.A. Photo credits Front Cover: Plate courtesy of Laguna Art Pottery, Seattle, photo by Rob Vinnedge; Title Page: HSA; Page viii: HSA; Page 10: author; Part I: author; Illustration on p. 18 reprinted by permission from Pupus to da Max, 1986 Peppovision, Inc.; Illustration on p. 67 reprinted by permission from p. 42 of Hawaii's SPAM Cookbook by Ann Kondo Corum 1989; Part 2: HSA; Part 3: HSA; Part 4: HSA; Back Cover: author. University of Hawai'i books are printed on acid-free paper and meet the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Council on Library Resources

Page v CONTENTS Acknowledgments vii Introduction Encountering Hawaii's Food 1 First Encounters 1 A Historical Digression: Exotic Encounters 3 The Message of Hawaii's Foods 6 Hawaii Regional Cuisine 7 Interpreting the Hawaiian Encounter 8 Notes to the Reader 11 Part One Local Food 15 Local Food as Creole Food 16 The Plate Lunch, or What Counts as a Meal in Hawaii 19 Our Daily Rice: Hawaii's Staple 30 Poke: Or Hawaii's Ways with Fish 35 Limu (Seaweed): Hawaii's Spice 44 Saimin, Manapua, and Musubi: Hawaii's Snacks 50 Sea Biscuits, Kanaka Pudding, and Saloon Pilots 61 Coming to Terms with SPAM (and Vienna Sausage and Corned Beef and Sardines) 66 Sorting Out Sushi 70 Shave Ice: No Mere Snow Cone This 73 Crack Seed: The Mei and the Ume 80 The Matter of Mochi 87 Malasadas and Andagi: Doughnuts from Two Ends of the Earth 94 "Food is Not a Racial Problem": Home Economics and Hawaii's Food 99 Part Two Ethnic Food 105 The Immigrants 106 Roast Pig by the Grave: The Chinese and Ching Ming 116 Celebrating Japanese New Year in Hawaii

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