Stella Fong - Billings Food: The Flavorful Story of Montanas Trailhead

Published by American Palate

A Division of The History Press

Charleston, SC

www.historypress.net

Copyright 2016 by Stella Fong

All rights reserved

All images by Stella Fong unless otherwise noted.

First published 2016

e-book edition 2016

ISBN: 978.1.62585.563.3

Library of Congress Control Number: 2015956828

print edition ISBN 978.1.46711.786.9

Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

For Joe, my husband, who always cooks up delicious ideas and adventures.

FOREWORD

Taking an honest look at Billings, Montana, through the lens of a true foodie, culinary teacher, writer and Southern California transplant, Stella Fong delivers a thorough guide to the burgeoning importance of good food in Montanas largest community. Reading her descriptions of eateries, from fine to funky, throughout the neighborhoods of Billings is like visiting with a good friend. Her recommendations are effusive, knowledgeable and diverse.

My favorite imagery in the book is that of the Saturday farmers market in summercold and windy in the morning but packed with customers who all are game to buy from farmers who grow food within a 120-mile radius of Billings. If anyone needs proof that the local food movement is on the rise in Billings, Fong offers the facts from the Yellowstone Valley Farmers Market, which has grown from one hundred customers in 1986 to three thousand in 2015, from three vendors to around sixty today. The delectable description of the sights and smells of the market captures a food-flash of downtown Billings with an array of A-to-Z choices, from apiary-fresh clover honey to a box of zucchini blossoms. I am already planning a visit next season and am prepared to drive the 120 miles from my house just to beat the crowds.

Highlighting the locavore movement at Montanas Trailhead, this book covers everything from beef to brewpubs, markets to Main Street, in a community where a diverse culinary scene has been growing over three decades. Noting the value of fresh, organic and natural in restaurants that serve breakfast, lunch and dinner and highlighting culinary leaders past and present, the author also gives a strong nod of gratitude toward Montanas farmers and ranchers who supply food to markets and restaurants in the community. In this no-frills ode to the culinary landscape of Billingsor, as Fong cleverly dubbed it, the foodscapethere is an approachable passion for eating well.

Seabring Davis

Author of A Montana Table: Recipes from Chico Hot Springs Resort;

Food Lovers Guide to Montana; A Taste of Montana; and

Big Sky Journals editor in chief and Dining Out columnist

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I want to thank all the people who have so enthusiastically talked about Billings foodsharing their favorite restaurants and telling of where they secure the best products to cook and to savor.

I thank the chefs and entrepreneurs who told their stories of desires and dreams of where they want the foodscape to evolve in Billings. I thank them for their passion and their persistence in bringing deliciousness to Montanas Trailhead.

Many thanks to Seabring Davis, author of A Taste of Montana: Favorite Recipes from Big Sky Country; Food Lovers Guide to Montana; A Montana Table: Recipes from Chico Hot Springs Resort; Big Sky Journals editor and Dining Out columnist. She has supported my craft and my love of food, art and people.

I thank those who helped me with my research, tasting and exploring restaurants around town: Renee and Dave Coppock, Sharon Forman, Suzi Rietz, Margit and Bill Thorndal, Sue Balter-Reitz and Paul Reitz and Bill and Mary Underriner.

Thanks to Sean McDaniel and Renee Coppock for being my eyes for detail, proofreading the words for Billings Food. I thank friends who have been the spirits of confidence and cheer. Thanks to Bess Fredlund, Robin Kline, Darla Jones, Kari Knierim, Barb Andersen, Bill Cochran, Lori Smith and Terrie Chrones. Always, I thank Deb Goffena for her artistic eye, her help with photographs and her support with research.

Also, thanks to Artie Crisp, Hilary Parrish, Jenni Tyler and Maggie Heatley at Arcadia Publishing and The History Press for their help and support.

Mostly, I thank my husband, Joe, who has inspired me to always seek new flavors and adventures. His help with research for this book was invaluable, along with assistance with editing and, of course, his countless words and spirit of support.

INTRODUCTION

Billings is bootstrapping the local food scene and standing tall. There is a growing confidence in the citys culinary identity while developing its own flavors and incorporating foods from around the world. The citys palate is evolving beyond the boundaries of the Treasure State while giving notice to the nearby ingredients that provide Montanas Trailhead with its distinctive identity. It is high time that our city is noticed for the many culinary treasures that can be found here.

Nearby ranches run cattle, and fields of wheat sway in natures breath. It is no wonder that beef dominates the plate or that beer is brewed and wheat thrashed. The Yellowstone River is a massive nutrient artery providing home to fish and silty soil for morel mushrooms and spring asparagus, free for the picking. Huckleberries, buffalo berries and chokecherries grow freely, yielding fruit with just Mother Natures care. Local chickens range freely and lay colorful eggs, while local lamb finds its way to restaurant menus. Game is bountiful here with elk, deer and turkey and, of course, the occasional bison. To spice up these treasures, wild sage, mint and juniper berries provide the optional finishing touches.

The tastes and food styles from the West, and globally, have infused into indigenous fare. With chefs such as James Honaker, Jeremy Engebretson, Tim Freeman, Carl Kurokawa, Ben Harman, Howard Shen, Marlo Spreng and so many more, new ideas and ways of cooking are appearing on the table. They bring their backgrounds and knowledge, stimulating our palates with food that showcases naturally, with little adornment.

Chefs are paying heed to the food that comes from Montana. Neighboring growers are taking advantage of our unique environment while working within the limits of our growing seasons. The knowledge they have gained has allowed local chefs to take advantage of the fresh produce now available. The residents of Billings reap the harvest with Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs that allow for weekly supply of in-season fresh produce. The Yellowstone Valley Farmers Market provides an avenue for securing fresh local bounty and, even more, the opportunity to interact with those who create the food we eat.

In recent years, Natural Grocers and Luckys Market have settled into Billings to provide fresh organic and natural food options. Good Earth Market, Marys Health Foods, Montana Harvest Natural Foods and Bonanza Health Foods have been anchors of the health foodscape. Though often viewed as alternative food options, their messaging and principles have influenced many to integrate healthier options into everyday living, and they now are becoming mainstream. Greater demand has produced more options for healthy eating and cooking.