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Nikki Kazimova - Azerbaijan - Culture Smart!: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture

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For Westerners, the modern state of Azerbaijan may be hard to pinpoint. This small, oil-rich country in the southern Caucasus, on the southwestern shore of the Caspian Sea, only made its way on to the contemporary world map after the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991. As the world shrinks and competition for precious resources intensifies, the direction this strategically and economically important country takes will affect us all.
The historically tolerant and pluralist Azeri people have an ancient history and a rich culture. Azerbaijan lay on the route of the Great Silk Road, the trade network that connected China with Europe, and its people have lived through centuries of conquests by different imperial powers. It was also situated in the heart of the Great Game, the struggle for control of Central Asia played out between Russia and the West at the turn on the nineteenth century, which seems to be going through a modern remake. Azerbaijan has been called the quintessential borderland, many times over: between Europe and Asia, Islam and Christianity, Russia and the Middle East, Turks and Iranians, Shia and Sunni Islam.
Azerbaijan was briefly independent after the First World War, when it was the first Muslim state to adopt progressive Western values. A democratic republic with full womens suffrage, it boasted the first womens high school, the first opera, and the first female opera composer, as well as the first ballet in the Muslim world.
There followed seventy years of Soviet rule. After a bitter war in 199194, areas of Azerbaijan were occupied by neighboring Armenia, and the country has absorbed a huge number of refugees. At the same time, it is experiencing a new oil boom and the economy is growing. Among the people, there is a growing sense of national identity. Culture Smart! Azerbaijan looks at the many facets of this identity and explains the complex workings of Azerbaijani society. It will equip you with vital information and advice about the customs, practices, and sensibilities of a society poised on the brink of change.

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eISBN 978-1-85733-548-4 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data - photo 1
eISBN 978-1-85733-548-4 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data - photo 2

eISBN: 978-1-85733-548-4

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Copyright 2011 Kuperard

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or
by any means without prior permission in writing from the publishers.

Culture Smart! is a registered trademark of Bravo Ltd

First published in Great Britain 2011
by Kuperard, an imprint of Bravo Ltd
59 Hutton Grove, London N12 8DS
Tel: +44 (0) 20 8446 2440 Fax: +44 (0) 20 8446 2441
www.culturesmart.co.uk
Inquiries:

Series Editor Geoffrey Chesler
Design Bobby Birchall

Cover image: Detail of traditional Azerbaijani carpet Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Azerbaijan; photograph by Mamed Rahimov.

The photographs on by Turgut Mustafayev.

The photographs on are reproduced by permission of Samir Aliyev.

The images on are reproduced by permission of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the Republic of Azerbaijan; photographs by Mamed Rahimov.

Images on the following pages reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license: indigoprimes photostream

v3.1

About the Author

NIKKI KAZIMOVA is a Baku-born cross-cultural trainer and freelance writer. An honors graduate from the Azerbaijan University of Culture and Arts, she has an MA in journalism from the University of Missouri-Columbia.

Over the last ten years, Nikki has been dividing her time between Azerbaijan and the USA, where she studied and worked in journalism and for media development organizations, including CNN International and the International Center for Journalists in Washington.

She has worked for ExxonMobil in Azerbaijan, was a regional correspondent for Bloomberg News and the International Journalists Network, and was consultant to nonprofit organizations in Baku and Washington. She also managed the communication campaign of the Council of Europes All Different All Equal program in Strasbourg. She was an adjunct lecturer at Khazar University in Baku, and has conducted training courses for young journalists.

The Culture Smart! series is continuing to expand.
For further information and latest titles visit
www.culturesmart.co.uk

The publishers would like to thank CultureSmart!Consulting for its help in researching and developing the concept for this series.

CultureSmart!Consulting creates tailor-made seminars and consultancy programs to meet a wide range of corporate, public-sector, and individual needs. Whether delivering courses on multicultural team building in the USA, preparing Chinese engineers for a posting in Europe, training call-center staff in India, or raising the awareness of police forces to the needs of diverse ethnic communities, it provides essential, practical, and powerful skills worldwide to an increasingly international workforce.

For details, visit www.culturesmartconsulting.com

CultureSmart!Consulting and CultureSmart! guides have both contributed to and featured regularly in the weekly travel program Fast Track on BBC World TV.

contents
Map of Azerbaijan

introduction Azerbaijan which has recently joined the global family as an - photo 3

introduction

Azerbaijan, which has recently joined the global family as an independent state, is not an easy place to understand. It is a former Soviet republic with a complex identity that includes a linguistic kinship with Turkey, religious similarity with Shia Iran, and Russian cultural influences.

Strategically located between Russia, Iran, and Turkey, the country is rich in oil reserves, which means that it is inevitably involved in the new Great Game of our times. While trying to balance its relations with Russia, which still views the Caucasus as its own backyard, Azerbaijan has signed the Contract of the Century with major international oil companies to develop its Caspian Sea hydrocarbon reserves, and built pipelines to deliver oil and gas directly to European markets.

As oil rigs drill and the pumping gear pumps the black gold of Azerbaijan, the proliferation of black Land Cruiser Prados on the streets of Baku is testament to its transforming power; it took the country out of extreme poverty in the early 1990s and into the ranks of those countries applying to host the summer Olympics in 2016.

But, despite Azerbaijans declared desire to belong to Europe and the wider Western world, make no mistake about its origins. If you are struck by the European architecture and womens liberal dress styles in the streets of Baku, remember that you are still in Asia. Geographically, Baku is closer to Kabul, Tehran, and Istanbul than to Moscow, from where it was managed on and off for nearly two centuries before independence in 1991.

The Azerbaijani people, divided by an arbitrary border drawn after the Russo-Persian wars in the early nineteenth century, number tens of millions, only a fraction of whom live in the Republic of Azerbaijan. The largest number live in northwestern Iran, and many are scattered around the globe.

Today the Azerbaijanis are pondering their complex heritage and trying to define their destiny. This book will acquaint you with the basics of their history and social norms. Reading about their notions of friendship, ways of raising children, and which topics of conversation to cover and which to avoid, you will find the process of navigating the unfamiliar cultural undertows much less daunting. With time, youll be able to engage in conversations, form partnerships, and enjoy friendships that are likely to last a lifetime.

The genuine warmth and readiness to help that typify the Azerbaijani people will captivate you, and their poetic ways will beguile you. You may not always get a direct answer to your questions, and will often have to decipher the hidden meanings of verbal statements, but if you dont allow these subtleties to discourage you, you will find a people who are loyal, sensitive, and resourceful. Hospitality is one of the cornerstones of their society, and the phrase you are likely to hear most often in Azerbaijan is Khosh gelmisiniz!Welcome!

Key Facts
Official NameRepublic of Azerbaijan (Azerbaijan Respublikasi)On October 18, 1991, Azerbaijan declared its independence from the Soviet Union, confirmed by a referendum in December 1991.
Capital CityBakiThe international name is Baku.
Major CitiesShirvan, Ganja, Khankendi, Lenkeran, Mingechevir, Naftalan, Sumgayit, Sheki, Shusha, YevlakhKhankendi and Shusha are currently in the occupied zone.
Area33,436 sq. miles (86,600 sq. km)
BordersLand borders with Russia, Iran, Turkey, Georgia, and Armenia. Shares Caspian Sea borders with Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Iran, and Russia
ClimateSemidesert around Baku; subtropical in the south; forest, alpine, and subalpine in the northwest; semi-desert and mountainous tundra in Nakhchivan
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