William Curley - Nostalgic Delights: Classic Confections & Timeless Treats

WILLIAM CURLEY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN SUMMERS

To my father Big Bill, a Methil boy through and through.

Without his support, I would not have achieved my goals.

And to my daughter Amy-Rose

I hope I can do the same for you one day.

Nostalgic Delights. You cant avoid smiling as you say this seductive little phrase, and if you have an achingly sweet tooth like us, you will be rendered incapable in the face of Williams glorious treats, stunningly revealed in pages dripping with the comfort of the familiar and excitement of the new. With his impeccable skills grounded in classic French haute cuisine, William teases with a fun, eclectic repertoire, brimming with surprises and entangled with fascinating memories that hint at their inspirations and resonate with all of us. Just reading the list of Delights, let alone sampling any, will instantly recall childhood. Here, we dont just taste, we feel the emotions of Williams food.

In precise, meticulously researched recipes, the classics feature but with a refreshing, cleaner lightness that modernizes timeless icons such as Classic Millefeuille with its airy light layers and satiny fondant, along with others, such as Charlotte Royale and Charlotte Russe. All are brilliantly juxtaposed with cheeky innovations of childhood favourites such as Ice Cream Sandwich, Rout Biscuits, Fruit Pastilles and Marshmallows. Who could resist trying their hand at making a Curley Wurly, elegantly recreating a Walnut Whip or Snowballs with a tropical twist?

Over the years, we have observed and admired Williams tenacious pursuit of his childhood vocation to excel as a ptissier and chocolatier, steadily growing in confidence and skill to become one of Europes most talented and lauded pastry chefs, achieving his place amongst the 100 best pastry chefs in the Relais Desserts International. Along the way, we have mentored and even judged him as he has amassed an incredible list of prizes and awards including Master of Culinary Arts and the Academy of Chocolates Britains Best Chocolatier four times.

As we read his latest, intensely personal book, we feel such pride, since it marks not only a progression in stature and maturity from his previous works, but a level of confidence in giving intimate, vivid insight to inspirations rooted in a happy childhood in Fife, worldwide travels and unforgettable apprenticeships served under culinary masters, such as Pierre Koffmann and Marc Meneau. William reveals how nostalgia can be profoundly grounding but also creatively inspiring, forming a true sense of identity.

In these days when attitudes towards food can swing between guilt and paranoia, the Roux family, in common with the French in general, still very much believes that food and eating is a glorious, positive source of pleasure that uplifts and draws people together. That is the essence of Williams book. He invites us to join him in his humble and worthy pursuit to shamelessly celebrate ptisserie, chocolate and all things sweet and delicious whether beautifully simple or more elaborate in design. Enjoy the stunning photos, indulge in the mouthwatering confections and remember that it is the small, simple things in life that bind us together and often give the greatest pleasure and happiness.

Michel Roux, O.B.E., M.O.F.

Global Ambassador, The Waterside Inn

Alain Roux

Chef Patron, The Waterside Inn

The definition of nostalgia is A sentimental longing or wistful affection for a period in the past. The word is thought to be derived from the Greek words nostos, meaning return home and algos, meaning pain, so it originally imparted the feeling of missing home.

Whether it be standing at Tannadice with my dad watching my beloved Dundee United taking on Europes finest; playing my first record, Sound Affects by The Jam; eating too much of my mums Black Forest gteau at Christmas; or eating milk ice cream with my sister by the seaside on a warm summers day on the east coast of bonnie Scotland food plays a major part in my nostalgic memories, and my memories have also shaped my taste and style of cooking. Experiencing food throughout my life has had a vast impact on the path I have taken.

Some of my earliest and most influential memories of cooking come from visiting my granny on a Sunday afternoon. The smell of boiling jam and baking cakes still takes me back to the time spent with her. Peggy McHoul taught me not only to cook, but to understand the value of homemade food; an ethos that even today I try to embrace within my craft and pass on to the next generation of ptissiers and chocolatiers. It was her influence that gave me the confidence, when I was fifteen, to enter a classroom full of girls baking cakes!

At college, I was very fortunate to be taken under the wing of a master baker, Dave Bryson, who encouraged me to take my passion forward. From college my journey continued, supported by people along the way who helped build a foundation and inspire me. In particular Scott Lyall and Willie Pike, who have both done so much for young chefs in Scotland, and remain good friends of mine today.

Arriving at Gleneagles Hotel as a 17-year-old apprentice opened my eyes to the historic grandeur of cooking tall hats, huge copper pans, the smell of caramel and pots of cinder toffee bubbling and steaming. Even now, stepping into the kitchen of a great hotel encapsulates Escoffiers era. Auguste Escoffier brought the Golden Era of Marie Antonin Carmes haute cuisine from the mid-1800s into the 20th century. I was fortunate enough at Gleneagles to be taught by Ian Ironside, a very traditional chef who had previously been the Head Ptissier at The Savoy. He clearly had more influence than I had anticipated at the time, as later on I went to take on the same role at The Savoy.

Second to only my granny, my time with Pierre Koffmann has had the greatest impact on my relationship with food. Entering his kitchen and receiving his training at La Tante Claire opened the door for me into the fine food industry. His cooking is based on his memories and love of Gascony, from where he originally came. He taught me to be proud to cook from the heart.