Jenn Louis - The Book of Greens: A Cooks Compendium of 40 Varieties, from Arugula to Watercress, with More Than 175 Recipes

KIMCHI BUTTER

MAKES 4 CUPS [900 G]

1 pound [455 g] unsalted butter

cup [75 g] peeled and sliced fresh ginger

1 cups [175 g] kimchi, homemade () or store-bought, drained

3 tablespoons kimchi liquid

2 tablespoons fish sauce

In a pot, melt the butter with the ginger over medium heat. Add the kimchi, kimchi liquid, and fish sauce. Stir to combine, then transfer to the refrigerator and chill until no longer liquid but not quite firm, about 30 minutes. Scrape the butter into a food processor and process until the solids are finely minced. Transfer to two pint containers and store for up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator or for up to 6 months in the freezer.

SHISO BUTTER

MAKES 8 OUNCES [240 G]

ounce [15 g] fresh shiso leaves

1 cup [230 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 teaspoons flaky sea salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon ground cayenne pepper

Blanch the shiso leaves in a small pot of boiling water for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, drain, and run under cool water. When the leaves are cool, wring out any excess water and form into a ball. Cut the ball into five strips.

In a food processor, combine the butter and shiso and process, stopping to scrape down the sides, until well combined. Add the salt, fish sauce, and cayenne and blend thoroughly.

Roll up the butter in plastic wrap or parchment paper, forming a log. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months.

5 THINGS TO DO WITH SHISO BUTTER

Spread on toast and serve plain, or spread on toast and top with seared tuna or sliced roasted chicken with peanuts and coconut.

Place a pat on fish or potatoes before roasting.

Toss braised greens with shiso butter before serving.

Add a dollop to finish soft scrambled eggs.

Add a pat to finish pasta with sauted scallops, mint, and fresh chile.

CREAM CHEESE PASTRY DOUGH

MAKES DOUGH FOR TWO 9-INCH [23-CM] PIE CRUSTS

2 cups [280 g] all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup [230 g] unsalted butter, chilled and cut into -inch [12-mm] pieces

6 ounces [170 g] cream cheese, chilled and cut into 8 pieces

In a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt until combined. Add the butter and pulse until it breaks down into pea-size pieces. Add the cream cheese and process just until incorporated and a mass of dough forms. Do not overmix or the final crust will be tough.

Dump the contents of the processor bowl onto a counter and gather the dough into a cohesive mass. Divide the dough in half and form each half into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 45 minutes before using. To freeze the dough, place the wrapped dough in the freezer for up to 6 months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight and bring to a firm, yet rollable texture to use.

MEDIUM- AND HARD-BOILED EGGS

MAKES 6

6 eggs

Place the eggs in a bowl and cover with hot tap water. Set aside to temper for 15 minutes. Make an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice water. Set aside.

Remove the eggs from the water. Over medium-high heat, bring a medium pot of water to a simmer. Gently add the eggs to the simmering water with a slotted spoon. Take care to keep the water at a lively simmer without becoming a boil and knocking the eggs around too much. For medium-boiled eggs, cook for 8 minutes; for hard-boiled, cook for 9 minutes. Immediately place the cooked eggs in the ice bath to cool completely, about 15 minutes. Remove from the water. Crack and peel to use.

Eggs can be stored in an airtight container in the refregerator for up to 4 days.

POACHED EGGS

MAKES 4

2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

4 eggs

Over medium heat, bring a 2-quart [2-L] saucepan filled with water to a gentle simmer and add the vinegar. Using 2 of the eggs, crack each egg into a custard cup or small ramekin. Use the handle of a spatula or spoon to quickly stir the water in one direction to create a vortex. Add 1 egg at a time to the swirling water and cook until the white is set and the yolk is soft and runny, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs from the water and serve immediately. Repeat with the 2 remaining eggs.

CROUTONS

MAKES 8 TO 12 CUPS [320 TO 480 G]

2 loaves pain au levain or other artisanal bread

cup [180 ml] olive oil

Kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 325F [165C].

Remove the crust and cut the bread into 1-inch [2.5-cm] cubes. In a bowl, toss the bread cubes with the olive oil and season lightly with salt. Spread the cubes on a sheet pan, then toast in the oven until golden and dry throughout, 20 to 25 minutes. If the bread becomes too dark, decrease the heat. Once the croutons are cool, they can be held for 1 to 2 days in an airtight container.

FISH SAUCE AOLI

MAKES 1 CUP [240 ML]

1 egg yolk

2 teaspoons kimchi liquid, from homemade () or store-bought

1 cup [240 ml] neutral vegetable oil

teaspoon Sriracha sauce

2 teaspoons fish sauce

teaspoon kosher salt

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and kimchi liquid. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly, until a thick mayonnaise forms. Stir in the Sriracha, fish sauce, and salt. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

KIMCHI SYRUP

2 parts kimchi liquid, from homemade () or store-bought

1 part sugar

Heat the kimchi liquid and sugar in a pan over high heat just until the sugar dissolves. Let cool. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

SIMPLE SYRUP

1 part water

1 part sugar

Heat the water and sugar in a pan over high heat just until the sugar dissolves. Let cool. Keeps for up to 6 months in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

PICKLED CHILES

MAKES SCANT 2 QUARTS [2 L]

2 pounds [900 g] red Fresno chiles (or red jalapeo, green jalapeo, or serrano chiles), stemmed and halved

4 cups [960 ml] white vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Put the chiles in a food processor and pulse until chopped into small pieces but not minced. Add the vinegar and salt and pulse once or twice to mix. Store in quart containers in the refrigerator for 1 week before serving. Keeps for up to 6 months in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

PRESERVED LEMONS

MAKES 3 GALLONS [11.4 L]

15 pounds [6.8 kg] lemons

2 cups [75 g] bay leaves

2 cups [270 g] kosher salt

15 cinnamon sticks

2 cups [280 g] juniper berries

3 cups [720 ml] fresh lemon juice, plus more to cover

Carefully wash all the lemons; set aside. Wash and rinse a 3-gallon [11.4-L] glass jar.

Cut all the lemons into quarters lengthwise. Holding a knife at an angle, cut the center membrane from the lemon quarters and gently scrape out the seeds.

Squeeze the juice from the lemon qurters into the jar. Arrange the juiced lemon quarters in layers in the juice, distributing the bay leaves, salt, cinnamon, and juniper berries evenly among the layers. Top with additional lemon juice until all the lemon quarters are covered with juice. Weigh down the lemons with a few small plates to fully submerge them. Cover the jar tightly with plastic wrap. Set aside in a cool or room-temperature spot, out of direct sunlight.

Check the lemons every few days and scrape away any dark film that forms on the surface. If the lemons rise to the top, push them down with clean hands or a spoon so they are submerged, then replace the plastic wrap with a fresh piece.